Chanel Haute Couture SS2024. Ballets Russes a Wɔsɛe no

Chanel wɔ nhyiamu a ɛyɛ nwonwa a obi bɛtumi aso ho daeɛ nko ara. Wɔboaboa biribiara a yɛfrɛ no DNA ne agyapade ano, hyehyɛ no din, de gu adaka mu, kyerɛw so, na wɔboaboa ano wɔ pyramid a ɛyɛ pɛ mu, ma obiara ani bere: efi Mademoiselle mfonini a ɛhyerɛn so kosi kamelia fitaa a etwa to, ribbon tuntum, ne sika kɔkɔɔ bɔtn so. Wɔde SS2024 couture nhoma a wɔaboaboa ano a wɔfrɛ no The Button no hyiraa saa nsɛm yi mu. Nanso ɛmfa ho sɛ eponymous mini-movie serviced by pgLang, a Dave Free kyerɛwee na ɔkyerɛɛ kwan na Kendrick Lamar na ɔbɔɔ bɔɔl ne afei nso défilé set a button kɛse bi a ɛsensɛn ɔdan no atifi a Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free, ne Mike Carson na wɔyɛɛ no, biribiara nni bɔton ahorow a ɛwɔ nneɛma a wɔaboaboa ano no ankasa mu no ho. Nkannyan ankasa ne Ballets Russesna sɛnea adwinni ho ɔkwankyerɛfo Virginie Viard ka kyerɛ yɛn no, wɔde nneɛma a wɔaboaboa ano no ahyɛ mfe ɔha afahyɛ a Chanel ne Diaghilev yɛɛ biako mfiase no.

Na esiane sɛ wɔama yɛn saa safoa yi nti, yɛrentumi nnyɛ hwee sɛ yɛbɛbɔ mmɔden na yɛde adi agoru. Saa safe yi bue ɔpon kɛse no ntɛm ara ma ahohuru bere mu nneɛma a wɔaboaboa ano a ɛhyerɛn yiye yi, a wotumi hu ballet ntade no pefee — wɔ leggings ne leotards a ɛwɔ ntade no nyinaa ase no su mu. Atade a ɛte sɛ fitaa-pink-ne-sika kɔkɔɔ ntakra ni — hena dea ne? Diaghilev’s characters no mu hena na ɛbɛfata ama? L’Oiseau de feu na ɔyɛ? — Yiw, ebia L’oiseau de feu, nanso wɔ nkyerɛase a emu yɛ hare kɛse a efi Virginie Viard hɔ mu, na ɛnyɛ nea ɛyɛ hyew a efi Léon Bakst hɔ mu. Na wɔ ayeforo a n’ani agye na ɔyɛ nnɛyifo ankasa hwɛbea a etwa to mu — Virginie Viard di nkonim bere nyinaa wɔ wɔn a wɔyɛ no mu — wɔ mini fitaa a ɛwɔ tulle nsateaa a ɛho ayɛ fĩ ne keteke tenten a ɛwɔ cape wɔ n’akyi mu no, Watteau&Rococo pue mpofirim, sɛnea ɛte wɔ anim a Margaret de mae no mu no Qualley yehu ne Pierrot no kɔla fitaa a ahuru no. Anaasɛ ɛyɛ biribi a efi Ballets Russes mu bio? Sɛ nhwɛso no, Pétrouchka a Alexandre Benois kyerɛwee? Wobetumi atoa saa agodie a ɛyɛ anigye yi so, titiriw esiane sɛ Virginie Viard ankasa kae Bakst ne ne palette no nti, na osi abakɔsɛm mu abusuabɔ a ɛda Chanel ne ballet ntam nso so dua, na ɔkae yɛn sɛ Chanel boa Paris Opera Ballet de besi nnɛ. Nanso wɔ ɔkwan a ɛkɔ akyiri so no, wɔasi ballet nsɛm a ɛfa ho no so dua wɔ ha ɔkwan biara so — eyi yɛ ade a ɛyɛ dɛ, ɛyɛ fɛ na nea ɛho hia no, ɛyɛ nea ɛyɛ mmerɛw sɛ wɔbɛhyehyɛ a ɛwɔ nneɛma a ɛyɛ nwonwa pii, nanso ɛnyɛ agoruhwɛbea biara.

Nokwarem no, na saa ntade yi yɛ métiers d’art afahyɛ a Chanel ahoboa biara ntumi gyae — tulle, ruffles, pleats ne lace, nwene a ɛkyerɛ ntama a wɔde kata so, mousseline plumes, agyan ne nhwiren, illusion tulle kotoku, sequins. Wɔn mu biara amma saa nneɛma yi anyɛ kɛse, na ɛmaa wɔtee nka sɛ mframa wom mmom. Nanso, sɛ yɛsan kɔ baabi a ballet no fii ase a, mfonini a edi kan a ɛbaa m’adwene mu, bere a mihuu nea edi kan koraa a wɔde atade a ɛyɛ mmerɛw ne jumpsuits a ɛyɛ fɛ no ara pɛ no, na ɛnyɛ Diaghilev anaa Bakst, na mmom Margiela a ɔde ne ahobammɔ kataso a ɛda adi pefee sɛ ɔno na n’ani gye ho sɛ wɔde hwɛbea ahorow bɛto so. Ɛte sɛ nea Virginie Viard asi gyinae sɛ ɔbɛtoa deconstruction apɔw-mu-teɛteɛ a ofii ase wɔ prêt-à-porter SS24 ahoboa no so a ntade ahorow a wɔatwitwa na wɔapam wɔn ho wɔn ho no. Nanso wɔ haute couture version no mu no, wɔde delicacy ne precision na ɛyɛ, a ɛmaa saa collection yi yɛɛ nwonwa kɛse.

Nkyerɛwee: Elena Stafyeva

Akyerɛw hokwan CHANEL