POSTED BY HDFASHION / February 6TH 2024

Dior Haute Couture SS2024: Haute couture a ɛda aura ne awo ntam

Maria Grazia Chiuri nkɔsoɔ a ɛda nsow no mu baako ne sɛ wabɔ n’ankasa Dior show gyinapɛn, ayi agodie ne anwensɛm no afiri hɔ nea edii n’anim no ho na ɔde nnɛyi adwinni ne mmea ho adwene besi ananmu. Na bere a ɔda so ara wɔ ahoɔfɛ a wɔtaa de di dwuma wɔ ne nneɛma a waboaboa ano no mu no, ɔde mmea ho honhom no nyinaa hyɛ ɔyɛkyerɛ ahorow no nhyehyɛe mu, na ɔto nsa frɛ mmea mfoniniyɛfo sɛ wɔnyɛ. Saa bere yi de na ɛyɛ ntade a ɛsõ dodo 23, a emu biara tenten yɛ mita 5, a Isabella Ducru, Italiani mfoniniyɛfo bi a wadi mfe 92 a ɔde ntama a wɔde atetesɛm nwene kwan so yɛ adwuma na ɔyɛe. Wɔfrɛɛ no Big Aura.

Asɛmfua “aura” no kyerɛ yɛn ntɛm ara kɔ Walter Benjamin ne n’afɛfɛde ho nsusuwii, a na “aura” yɛ adwene a ɛho hia sen biara a enyaa adwinni ho nyansapɛ nyinaa so nkɛntɛnso maa nea edi hɔ no mfe 100 na atwam. Aura yɛ saa honhom mu ade a atwa adwinni bi ho ahyia na ɛsɔre wɔ ne su ahorow no ntam: nokware, n’abakɔsɛm mu nsɛm a ɛfa ho, beae a wɔda no adi – na awiei koraa no ɛne saa amanne kronkron a adwinni biara betumi ahwehwɛ ne ntini mu akɔ hɔ no wɔ abusuabɔ. Ɛyɛ nea nea ɔhwɛ no te nka bere a wohu sɛ wɔayɛ nwini wɔ mfonini anaa agoruyɛfo kuw bi anim no. Saa aura yi fii ase sɛee wɔ bere a wɔde mfiri yɛ adwinni ho mfonini, mfoninitwa ne sini bere a ɛkɔɔ ne sorosoro koraa wɔ 1930 mfe no mu, bere a Benjamin kyerɛw n’asɛm a agye din a wɔato din The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction no. Maria Grazia Chiuri de saa adwene yi di dwuma tẽẽ wɔ haute couture, a ɛyɛ ntade soronko a wɔayɛ ama onipa pɔtee bi nipadua soronko na wɔde di dwuma yiye koraa no ho. Sɛnea Maison Dior hyɛ no nsow wɔ ne nkitahodi mu no, haute couture afã bi wɔ hɔ a ɛte sɛ aura: osuahu a tumi wom a ɛnyɛ sɛ ɛyɛ nsusuwii nko, na mmom ɛyɛ adeyɛ nso.

Defilé no fii ase denam ɔbea nne nnyigyei a ɛsan ka nsɛmfua “weft and warp” mpɛn pii so. Mfonini ahorow a wɔhyɛ ntade a ɛyɛ kotoku nyinaa a na ɛwɔ trench coats kɔla a wɔde di dwuma wɔ tete mmere mu na ɛkyerɛ wɔn nsusuwii no puei wɔ ɛnne no nnyigyei mu. Bere a mfoniniyɛfo pii bae no, na amena no nsusuwii ahorow no repete nkakrankakra ayɛ nwene ne ntade atenten abɛyɛ Dior New Look ntade a wɔde sirikyi a wɔde nsu agu so a wɔsan frɛ no moiré na ɛyɛe. Wɔ saa kwan yi so no wɔde kotoku a ɛnyɛ ntama a wɔde di dwuma wɔ amanne kwan so sen biara a wɔde yɛ couture no abɔ moiré, ntama a ɛkorɔn na ne bo yɛ den sen biara no mu biako ho. Cotton ne moiré bɛyɛɛ Dior haute couture collection PE24 no ntama ne nwene, na ɛde nhyehyɛe a ɛboa a Chiuri ankasa ka ho asɛm sɛ “ntama abien a ɛda adi sɛ ɛbɔ abira ntam nkɔmmɔbɔ.” Na odum a ɛwɔ nneɛma a wɔaboaboa ano no mu ne La Cigale moiré atade a efi AH1952-53 Dior archive collection a Harper’s Bazaar kaa ho asɛm wɔ ne September 1952 de no mu sɛ wɔde "grey moiré, a emu yɛ duru araa ma ɛte sɛ dade a ɛyɛ mmerɛw.”

Eyi ne bere a edi kan a Maria Grazia Chiuri de moiré adi dwuma na wubetumi ahu sɛ n’ani gyee ne styling tumi ne saa ara nso na nea ebetumi aba wɔ La Cigale silhouette, ne ne akyi mmerɛw ne emu nsɛnnennen a wɔatwa ne nhyehyɛe.Nea afi sɔhwɛ yi mu aba ne ntade a ɛyɛ nwonwa a wɔde moiré ahyɛ mu fi burgundy so kosi l’heure bleue so, a ɛma afeha a ɛto so 18 moiré asɛnnibea ntade a ɛyɛ fɛ ne Dior New Look a ɛyɛ pɛ no yɛ nsakrae ma ɛne Dior nnɛyi haute couture adetɔfo ahiade hyia . Nanso nea na yɛn ani gye ho koraa ne chartreuse atade a ɛyɛ hare a ɛwɔ amber sunsuma a ɛwɔ mmati a wɔakata so no ankae yɛn Fransefo ahemfie mpanyimfo anaasɛ New Look no, nanso ne aura, sɛ amma yɛnyɛ nwini mpo a, na ɛfrɛɛ yɛn ankasa de kɔ yɛn nkyɛn fi asɛnka agua so esiane sɛnea ɛfa ho nti. Аs Benjamin kaa sɛ, “sɛ yɛbɛhunu aura a ɛwɔ adeɛ bi a yɛhwɛ mu no kyerɛ sɛ yɛde bɛto mu de tumi a yɛde bɛhwɛ yɛn de atua ka.”

Nkyerɛwee: Elena Stafyeva