Apɔnkɔsotefoɔ a wɔwɔ ahum mu: Seán McGirr’s debut ma Alexander McQueen Otwabere-Awɔw Bere 2024

McGirr de ne nneɛma a edi kan a waboaboa ano no mae wɔ keteke gyinabea dedaw bi a ɛwɔ Paris kurotia, wɔ Paris ntadehyɛ dapɛn no da a osu tɔ sen biara no: enti, ntama kɔkɔɔ/ahabammono a ɛyɛ acid a wɔde si nkongua biara so ma ahɔho ma wɔn ho yɛ hyew no. Wɔ ne show notes mu no, Irelandni adwumfo no kae sɛ ɔpɛ sɛ nea edi kan a waboaboa ano no yɛ “A rough opulence. Aboa a ɔwɔ mu a wɔda no adi”. Backstage, McGirr kyerɛkyerɛɛ mu sɛ esiane sɛ na ɛyɛ ne outing a edi kan ma Alexander McQueen, na ɔte nka sɛ obi a ofi abɔnten nti, ɔpɛe sɛ ɔde n’adwene si Lee nnwom a edi kan koraa a ɔboaboaa ano te sɛ “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) a efi 90 mfe no mu, bere a adwumfo a wawu no tee nka sɛ n’ankasa yɛ obi a ofi abɔnten. “Nea m’ani gye ho wɔ ho ne sɛ ne nyinaa yɛ mmerɛw yiye, nanso wɔakyinkyim no kakra. Ɛfa nea wowɔ biara a wode bɛbɔ ho. Na Lee refa classic elements te sɛ jackets na ɔrekyinkyim no na ɔrebubu no na wahu nea ɛba”. Enti akyinnye biara nni ho sɛ na DIY atenka bi wɔ nneɛma a wɔaboaboa ano no mu, ne London mmerante ne mmabaa no ahoɔden. Yiw, McGirr wɔ ha sɛ ɔrebɛwosow nneɛma no, na saa ara na ɔyɛe!

Seán McGirr de atade a wɔakyinkyim a wɔakata so a ɛwɔ atade tuntum a wɔde laminated ayɛ a ɛkyerɛ clingfilm atade a agye din a efi “The Birds” mu no buee ne nneɛma a waboaboa ano no, mfoniniyɛfo no kuraa ne nsa wɔ ne moma so. Anadwo yi, na ne nyinaa fa London nnipa a wunnim wɔn de besi nnɛ, nanso w’ani begye ho sɛ wubehyia wɔn ho. Afei, na aboa nhoma amena ne detective kyɛw wɔ hɔ, ne McQueen’s references dodow pa - susuw ntade a mmoa nkyerɛwee, acid kɔla, rose nneɛma ne ti nhwi motif a agye din no ho. Wɔde silhouettes no kɔɔ akyiri: na chunky knits akɛse a kɔla kɔ soro wɔ ti no atifi (hello, Martin Margiela!) yɛ collection’s highlights no mu biako. Na ntadehyɛ ho akwan bi nso wɔ hɔ a wɔnhwɛ kwan: atade ketewaa bi a wɔde kaneadua a abubu ne sakre a ɛma hann a ɛyɛ kɔkɔɔ ne borɔdɔma ayɛ, te sɛ nea wɔde nneɛma a wohuu wɔ kar akwanhyia akyi na ɛyɛe. Na abiɛsa a etwa to no hwɛbea, kar ntade, a wɔde dade ayɛ, a ne kɔla te sɛ Ferrari kɔkɔɔ, cobalt bruu Aston Martin ne Tesla tuntum. McGirr kyerɛkyerɛɛ mu wɔ asɛnka agua no akyi sɛ ne papa yɛ mfiridwumayɛfoɔ, nanso ɛnyɛ obuo a ɔde ma abusua muni bi kɛkɛ, ɛyɛ akwantuo a ɛkɔ nkaeɛ kwan no so kɛseɛ: wɔ ne mmofraaseɛ no na wɔresusuw kar ne wɔn adwini ho bere nyinaa wɔ fie, na yei ne ɔkwan a ɔfaa so huu out ɛhia sɛ ɔbɔ nsusuiɛ ne nsɛsoɔ ma asetena mu.

Bere a akyiri yi anwummere yi wɔ Guido Palau afahyɛ a ɛfa ne haircare line foforo ma Zara ho no me ne Katy England abusua no twaa akwan (na stylist no yɛ Lee de no mu biako nnamfo a wɔbɛn wɔn paa), na ɛte sɛ nea wɔn nyinaa adwene atu afra kakra. Na obiara a watwa yɛn ho ahyia no reka McGirr’s debut ho asɛm sɛ ɛyɛ abasamtu kakra. Adwene pii dodo, nanso ɛhe na anisoadehu no wɔ? So anka ebetumi ayɛ soronko? Na sɛ mpaboa yi sõ dodo sɛ ɛbɛhyɛ mu ara kwa nso ɛ? Wiɛ, McGirr mmuae a ɔde mae wɔ ɔkasatia ho no mu da hɔ yiye, ɔfa Lee McQueen a na ɔtaa ka wɔ huammɔdi biara akyi no asɛm ka sɛ: “M’ani begye ho sɛ nkurɔfo tan nea meyɛ sen sɛ meremfa ho hwee mma”. Na ɛno na ɛma saa adwumfo pɔtee yi fata yiye ma Lee McQueen fie.

Seán McGirr nhoma a edi kan a ɔboaboaa ano maa Alexander McQueen, a nsɛm a ɛfa adwumfo kɛse no agyapade ne nea odii n’ade no kan asetra ho ahyɛ mu ma no maa anigye ahum kɛse bae, a ɛyɛ papa ne nea enye nyinaa. Nanso afei ɛyɛ mfiase pɛ.Ɛnyɛ mmerɛw sɛ wobɛhyɛ obi a ɔyɛ adwumfo kɛse mpaboa ma. Titiriw sɛ onipa a yɛreka ne ho asɛm no yɛ Lee McQueen kɛse a samufo, adetɔfo, asuafo ne awo ntoatoaso a wɔn ani gye ntadehyɛ ho kamfo no a. Na sɛ ɛba kan adebɔ kwankyerɛfo Sarah Burton akyi pɛɛ, Lee nsa nifa a ɔdɔ no a ɔhwɛɛ n’agyapade fi bere a owui wɔ afe 2010 mu no mma tak no nyɛ mmerɛw. Seán McGirr a wadi mfeɛ aduasa nnum a wɔwoo no Dublin no bɛkaa ofie a ɛyɛ agyiraeɛhyɛdeɛ no ho asram kakraa bi a atwam ni - ansa na ɔreyɛ adwuma ama Jonathan W. Anderson wɔ ne din a ɔde too so sɛ adwini ho panyin, nanso ɔreyɛ adwuma a ɔne Japanfoɔ gua kɛseɛ no nso yɛeɛ ɔbran Uniqlo a ɔyɛ ɔbran. Ɔwɔ stint wɔ Dries Van Noten wɔ ne resume, nso. Ɛyɛ nwonwa.

Nsɛm: LIDIA AGEEVA