Enye nyadzɔdzɔ si va abe nusi wɔ nuku ene. Le Kuɖagbe ŋdɔ me la, Dries Van Noten ɖe gbeƒãe be le ƒe 28 ƒe asitsatsa megbe la, yeaɖe asi le yeƒe ŋkɔ si wotsɔ nɛ ŋu. Eƒe ŋutsuwo ƒe awudodo ƒe ɖeɖefia si kplɔe ɖo le June me anye eƒe mamlɛtɔ. Togbɔ be egakpɔtɔ le agbalẽ xatsaxatsa te be amekae ayɔ eƒe afɔkpawo me hã la, nusi míenya xoxo enye be enye ɣeyiɣi dzeani aɖe ŋutɔ ƒe nuwuwu. Eye, ẽ, woato Dries ŋu.
“Le ƒe '80 ƒe gɔmedzedze, esime menye ɖekakpui tso Antwerp la, nye drɔ̃e enye be gbe nanɔ asinye le atsyã me. To mɔzɔzɔ aɖe si kplɔm yi London, Paris kple egodo, kple ame manyaxlẽ siwo kpe ɖe ŋunye ƒe kpekpeɖeŋu me la, drɔ̃e ma va eme. Fifia, medi be matrɔ nye susu ɖe nusiwo katã ŋu ɣeyiɣi menɔ asinye kpɔ o ŋu. Elé blanui nam, gake le ɣeyiɣi ma ke me la, dzi dzɔm, be mana mianya be maɖe asi le dɔ ŋu le June ƒe nuwuwu. Me le dzadzram ɖo ɖe ɣeyiɣi sia ŋu hena ɣeyiɣi aɖe, eye mese le ɖokuinye me be ɣeyiɣia de be magblẽ teƒe ɖi na ŋutete ƒe dzidzime yeye aɖe be woatsɔ woƒe ŋutega ava adzɔnu ƒe dzesidea gbɔ”, Dries Van Noten ɖe eme le eƒe lɛta si wòŋlɔ na nuŋlɔlawo me. Menye nya aɖe ko o, ke boŋ enye ame ŋutɔ ƒe nuŋlɔɖi na nutoa me tɔwo siwo do alɔe tso ŋkeke gbãtɔ dzi. Le abɔdzikpɔkpɔ gome la, modzakaɖeɖe si wòlɔ̃na wu ya. Esi wònye be Dries menye atsyãwɔla dzro aɖe ko kpɔ o ta la, enye drɔ̃ekula, abɔdzikpɔla si nya alesi wòade seƒoƒo dzeanitɔwo kekeake ahalé be na wo nyuie ɣesiaɣi.
Awudodo ƒe asitsala le dzidzime etɔ̃lia me, fofoa tɔgbui nye avɔlɔ̃la eye etɔ dzilawo nɔ atsyãdzraƒe aɖe dzi kpɔm, Dries do le Fiaɖuƒea ƒe Aɖaŋudɔsrɔ̃ƒe eye wòdze eƒe dɔ gɔme le ŋutsuwo ƒe awudodo me gake le dzɔdzɔme nu ŋutɔ tso eƒe Antwerp Ade ƒe ɖeɖefiaƒe gbãtɔ ŋutɔ le London va zu awutɔla bibi na ŋutsuwo kple nyɔnuwo siaa, tsɔa agbalẽtatawo kple amadedewo tsakana le nusi wɔ nuku wu le nusiwo wotsɔ ƒo ƒui dome. Eƒe fefewo nyea Paris Fashion Week ƒe nu vevi aɖe ɣesiaɣi (eye esesẽ be woagblɔ be “wore” le esi teƒe be “wonye”), afisi wòɖea wo fiana zi ene le ƒea me ƒe 30 kple edzivɔe nye sia. Enye atsyã ƒe ŋkuɖodzinya dzeaniwo ƒe hatsotso aɖe. Seselelãme ɣesiaɣi, dzinɔameƒo, le nyateƒe me, kple showstopper gbeɖiɖiwo, gake metea ɖeɖi ame ŋu gbeɖe o. Dries ƒe ɣeyiɣi eve aɖewo siwo wòlɔ̃na wu la le nuŋlɔla ɖesiaɖe si. Kplɔ̃ɖoƒe gã aɖe si wotsɔ ɖua kplɔ̃e, afisi nutatawɔlawo zɔna le fiẽnuɖukplɔ̃ ƒe kplɔ̃dzivɔ ɣia dzi ŋutɔŋutɔ tsɔ ɖua eƒe nuƒoƒoƒu ƒe 50 lia ƒe azã. Nukpɔkpɔ si wowɔna le Opera Garnier ƒe fefewɔƒea. Nuwɔwɔ aduadu kple exɔlɔ̃ kple ehati atsyãwɔla Christian Lacroix alo xɔmenuwo ŋuti xotutu Verner Panton. Rave aɖe si le ʋudzraɖoƒe aɖe si le Paris ƒe gbɔto la tame. Esi nyɔnuviawo nɔ, siwo nɔa anyi kpoo hedɔa alɔ̃ le modzakaɖebɔ dama si me ʋuʋudedi le la dzi. Alo esi ŋutsuviawo lé radio siwo ƒoa wɔnaa ƒe gbeɖiɖi esime wonɔ zɔzɔm le École des Beaux-Arts la ɖe asi.
Dries tsɔ ɖe le eme na ameawo ɣesiaɣi. Togbɔ be eƒe aɖaŋudɔwɔla siwo le India le didiƒe ʋĩ hã la, wole vevie abe eƒe ƒuƒoƒo siwo le Antwerp kple Paris ene. Le xexe si me atsyɔ̃ɖola gã Loro Piana ƒe ŋutinya gblẽa Internet dzi le nuwɔna gbegblẽ ɖe Peru agbledelawo ŋu ƒe nya ta, ewɔa dɔ fetu aɖeke maxɔmaxɔe tsɔ lãa Vicuña ƒe lãfu na awudziwui siwo woadzra emegbe ɖe euro akpe geɖe nu la, Van Noten ƒe kpɔɖeŋua xɔ asi wu. Eɖea ame ƒe agbe.
Mía dometɔ geɖe hã nye eƒe nudzɔla veviedonula: Dries ƒe nudzadzra na xɔlɔ̃wo kple ƒometɔwo va zu xotutu le wo ɖokui si, eye eƒe alɔdzedɔwɔƒea ƒe amedzrowo zɔa mɔ yia Antwerp be yewoakpɔ nu nyuitɔ kekeake siwo ŋu woke ɖo tso atsyãwɔla lɔlɔ̃a gbɔ. Enye nyateƒe be le eƒe ɖeɖefiawo me la, àte ŋu akpɔ dɔwɔƒea ƒe ɖeklemiɖela gãtɔwo, nuƒlelawo kple ŋusẽkpɔɖeamedzi wɔlawo ɣesiaɣi, wodo eƒe awu siwo ŋu fɔɖiɖi aɖeke mele o. Lɔlɔ̃ vavãtɔ ƒe nuwɔna, si lolo wu dɔwɔƒe ɖesiaɖe si dzi woda asi ɖo le se nu.
Esi Dries Van Noten dzra eƒe akpawo na Spaintɔwo ƒe ami ʋeʋĩ dɔwɔƒe gã Puig le keke ƒe 2018 me ke la, mí katã míenɔ vɔvɔ̃m be awɔe abu eƒe ɖokuisinɔnɔ eye nusiwo woƒo ƒu la ava zu asitsatsa geɖe wu. Eɖo kpe edzi be míeda ƒu. Ke boŋ ekpɔ ŋusẽ geɖe wu le hadomeɖoɖoa me eye wòto atsyɔ̃ɖomi kple ami ʋeʋĩ siwo ŋu fɔɖiɖi aɖeke mele o, siwo nya kpɔ abe eƒe awuwo ene, ɖe ŋgɔ. Eye eco-responsable keŋkeŋ, àte ŋu agbugbɔ akɔ arty nugoewo kple aŋetuwo nuwuwu manɔmee. Van Noten ʋu adzɔnudzraƒe bubuwo hã le xexeame godoo kple aɖaŋuɖohawo le China kple Los Angeles, kple adzɔnudzraƒe ɖeka bubu le Paris le Quais Malaquais le blemanuwo ƒe xɔ aɖe si nɔ anyi tsã me, si nye eƒe nusiwo wòdi be yeanya nu tsoe ƒe kabinet. Edze ecommerce fiase aɖe gɔme, si nye eƒe asiƒleƒe nuteƒekpɔkpɔ ƒe dijitaal tɔ. Dries ʋu nu me na eƒe alɔdzedɔwɔƒea ƒe dzidzime yeyeawo, eye wòkpe susu siwo di be yewoanya nu geɖe wu be woadi atsyɔ̃ɖoɖo kple awu siwo ŋu gɔmesese le va eƒe xexeame katã. Eye fifia, ɖoɖoae nye be woana mɔ̃ sia nawɔ dɔ tegbee, ne eƒe dzi trɔ yi afisi wòle, eƒe abɔ gɔ̃ hã.
ƒe nyawoNuŋɔŋlɔ: Lidia Ageeva