Dior Haute Couture SS2024: Haute couture le aura kple vidzidzi dome

Maria Grazia Chiuri ƒe dzidzedzekpɔkpɔ ɖedzesiwo dometɔ ɖekae nye nyateƒe si wònye be ewɔ eya ŋutɔ ƒe Dior show standard, si ɖe fefewɔƒewo kple hakpanyawo ɖa ƒe esiwo do ŋgɔ nɛ eye wòtsɔ egbegbe aɖaŋudɔwo kple nyɔnuwo ƒe nukpɔsusuwo ɖo wo teƒe. Eye togbɔ be egakpɔtɔ le atsyɔ̃ɖoɖo si bɔ ƒe ɖoɖo me le eƒe nudzraɖoƒewo hã la, etsɔa nyɔnunyenye ƒe gbɔgbɔ katã dea fefeawo ƒe ɖoɖoa me, eye wòkpea nyɔnu nutalawo be woawɔe. Fifia ya, awu 23 siwo lolo akpa, siwo dometɔ ɖesiaɖe kɔkɔ meta 5 ye nɔ eme, eye Isabella Ducru, si nye Italytɔ nutala aɖe si xɔ ƒe 92, si wɔa dɔ kple avɔ siwo wowɔ le blema avɔlɔlɔ̃mɔnu me lae wɔ. Woyɔe be Aura Gã.

Nya “aura” fia mí enumake be Walter Benjamin kple eƒe atsyɔ̃ɖoɖo ŋuti nufiafia, si me “aura” nye nukpɔsusu vevitɔ kekeake si kpɔ ŋusẽ ɖe aɖaŋudɔwɔwɔ ƒe xexemenunya bliboa dzi hena esi kplɔe ɖo ƒe 100 sɔŋ. Aura nye gbɔgbɔmenu ma si ƒo xlã aɖaŋudɔ aɖe eye wòdona le eƒe nɔnɔme vovovoawo ƒe nutome: nyateƒetoto, eƒe ŋutinya me nya siwo ƒo xlãe, teƒe si woɖee fia le – eye mlɔeba la, edo ƒome kple kɔnu kɔkɔe ma si gbɔ aɖaŋudɔ ɖesiaɖe ate ŋu akpɔ eƒe kewo tsoe. Enye nusi nukpɔla la sena le eɖokui me ne wokpɔe be yewotsi tsikpe me le nutata aɖe alo fefewɔlawo ƒe ƒuƒoƒo aɖe ŋgɔ. Aura sia dze gbagbã gɔme le aɖaŋudɔwo gbugbɔgawɔ ƒe ɣeyiɣia me, fotoɖeɖe kple sinima ƒe ɣeyiɣi, si ɖo eƒe kɔkɔƒe vevie le ƒe 1930-awo me, esime Benjamin ŋlɔ eƒe nuŋɔŋlɔ xɔŋkɔ si nye The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. Maria Grazia Chiuri zãa nukpɔsusu sia tẽ ɖe haute couture, si nye awu tɔxɛ siwo wowɔ na ame aɖe koŋ ƒe ŋutilã tɔxɛ eye wowɔe nyuie wu. Abe alesi Maison Dior de dzesii le eƒe kadodowo me ene la, haute couture ƒe akpa aɖe si le abe aura ene li: nuteƒekpɔkpɔ sẽŋu aɖe si menye ŋugbledede koe wònye o, ke boŋ enye nuwɔna hã.

Defilé la dze egɔme kple nyɔnu ƒe gbe ƒe ɖiɖi si gbugbɔ nya siwo nye “weft and warp” gblɔ zi gbɔ zi geɖe. Kpɔɖeŋu siwo ƒe dzedzeme nye kotoku blibo siwo ƒe amadede nye trench coats ƒe amadede si wozãna tsã eye woɖea woƒe nɔnɔme fiana la do ɖe gbea ƒe gbeɖiɖiwo nu. Esi atsyã geɖe wu va nɔ dodom la, doa ƒe nɔnɔmewo nɔ ʋuʋum vivivi va zu atsyã kple awu legbewo va zu Dior New Look awu siwo wotsɔ seda si wode tsii si woyɔna hã be moiré wɔ. To mɔ sia dzi la, wotsɔ kotoklobo, si menye avɔ si wozãna le blema wu na couture o, tsaka kple moiré, si nye avɔ siwo ŋu bubu le wu eye woxɔ asi wu la dometɔ ɖeka. Cotton kple moiré va zu Dior haute couture collection PE24 ƒe weft kple warp, si wɔe be wowɔ ɖoɖo si doa alɔe si Chiuri ŋutɔ ɖɔ be enye “avɔ eve siwo edze abe wotsi tre ɖe wo nɔewo ŋu ene dome dzeɖoɖo.” Eye sɔti si le nuƒoƒoƒua ŋue nye La Cigale moiré awu si tso AH1952-53 Dior ƒe nudzraɖoƒe ƒe nudzraɖoƒe si Harper ƒe Asitsaƒe ɖɔ le eƒe September 1952 ƒe tata me be wotsɔ "moiré ɣi, si kpekpe ale gbegbe be wòdze abe ga si le bɔbɔe ene” wɔe.

Esiae nye zi gbãtɔ si Maria Grazia Chiuri zã moiré eye àte ŋu akpɔe be eƒe atsyã ƒe ŋutete kpakple nusiwo ateŋu adzɔ le La Cigale silhouette me, kple eƒe gotagome bɔbɔe kple ememe nu sesẽ si le lãɖeɖe kple structure.Dodokpɔ sia me tsonue nye moiré awu siwo kplɔ wo nɔewo ɖo le amadede wɔnukuwo me tso burgundy dzi va ɖo l’heure bleue dzi, si trɔ asi le ƒe alafa 18 lia me moiré fiasãmewuwo ƒe atsyɔ̃ɖoɖo kple Dior ƒe New Look ƒe blibodede ŋu wòsɔ ɖe Dior ƒe egbegbe haute couture asisiwo ƒe nuhiahiãwo nu Gake míaƒe lɔlɔ̃tɔ si míelɔ̃ wue nye chartreuse awu si le abe amber ene si ƒe abɔta wotsɔ avɔ wɔe. na mí tso nuƒolanɔƒea le eƒe vevienyenye ta. Аs Benjamin gblɔ be, “be míakpɔ nusi ŋu míele ŋku lém ɖo ƒe aura adze sii fia be míade eme kple ŋutete be míalé ŋku ɖe mía ŋu ɖe eta.”

Nuŋɔŋlɔ: Elena Stafyeva

Nɔnɔmetatawo: Dior\ © Adrien Dirand, © Laura Sciacovelli