Sɔdolawo le ahom me: Seán McGirr ƒe ŋgɔdonya na Alexander McQueen ƒe Dzomeŋɔli-Dzomeŋɔli 2024

McGirr tsɔ eƒe nuƒoƒoƒu gbãtɔ ɖe go le ketekedzeƒe xoxo aɖe si le Paris ƒe gbɔto, le Paris ƒe atsyã ƒe kwasiɖa ƒe ŋkeke si dzi tsi dza wu la dzi: eyata avɔ siwo ƒe amadede nye acid yellow/green siwo woda ɖe zikpui ɖesiaɖe dzi be amedzrowo naxɔ dzo. Irelandtɔ atsyãwɔla la gblɔ le eƒe ɖeɖefia ŋuti nuŋlɔɖiwo me be yedi be yeƒe nudzraɖoƒe gbãtɔ nanye “A rough opulence. Lã si le eme la ɖeɖefia”. Le fefewɔƒea megbe la, McGirr ɖe eme be esi wònye be enye yeƒe tsaɖiɖi gbãtɔ na Alexander McQueen, eye wòsena le eɖokui me abe gotagometɔ ene ta la, yedi be yeƒe susu nanɔ Lee ƒe nuƒoƒoƒu gbãtɔ ŋutɔwo abe “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) tso ƒe 90-awo me, esime... aɖaŋuwɔla si megali o la ŋutɔ se le eɖokui me abe gotagometɔ ene. “Nusi doa dzidzɔ nam le eŋu enye be wo katã le bɔbɔe ŋutɔ, gake wotro vie. Eku ɖe nuwɔwɔ kple nusianu si le asiwò ŋu. Lee nɔ classic elements abe jackets ene xɔm henɔ etrom henɔ egbãm henɔ nusi dzɔna kpɔm”. Eyata DIY seselelãme aɖe nɔ nuƒoƒoƒua me godoo, kple London sɔhɛwo ƒe ŋusẽ. Ẽ, McGirr va afisia be yeaʋuʋu nuwo, eye nenemae wòwɔe!

Seán McGirr ʋu eƒe nudzraɖoƒea kple awu si wotsɔ draped si tro le awu yibɔ laminated jersey me si ƒo nu tso clingfilm awu xɔŋkɔ si tso “The Birds” me, model la lé eƒe asiwo ɖe akɔta. Fiẽ sia la, London ƒe nɔnɔme siwo mènya haɖe o, gake adzɔ dzi na wò be yeado goe ŋue wòku ɖo. Emegbe, lãgbalẽ ƒe dowo kple detektiv-wuwo nɔ anyi, kple McQueen ƒe nufiamewo ƒe agbɔsɔsɔme nyui aɖe - bu awu siwo dzi lãwo ƒe nɔnɔmetatawo le, acid ƒe amadedewo, rose ƒe nuzazãwo kple taɖu ƒe nɔnɔmetata xɔŋkɔa ŋu kpɔ. Wotsɔ nɔnɔmetataawo yi ŋgɔe: lãgbalẽ gã siwo wotsɔ lãgbalẽ wɔe siwo ƒe kɔmewo le ta dzi (hello, Martin Margiela!) nye nuƒoƒoƒua ƒe nu veviwo dometɔ ɖeka. Awudodo ƒe mɔnu aɖewo siwo womenɔ mɔ kpɔm na o hã nɔ anyi: awu sue aɖe si me akaɖiti si wogbã kple kekefɔkpa ƒe keklẽŋusẽ ƒe atsyã dzĩ kple aŋutiɖiɖi, abe ɖe wotsɔ nusiwo wokpɔ le ʋufɔku megbe wɔe ene. Eye dzedzeme etɔ̃ mamlɛawo, ʋu ƒe awuwo, siwo wotsɔ gakpo wɔ, siwo ƒe amadede le abe Ferrari ɣi, Aston Martin blɔ cobalt kple Tesla yibɔ ene. McGirr ɖe eme le megbe be ye fofo nye mɔ̃ɖaŋudɔwɔla, gake menye bubudede ƒomea me tɔ aɖe ŋu koe wònye o, ke boŋ mɔzɔzɔ to ŋkuɖodzimɔ dzi wu: le eƒe ɖevime la, wonɔa ʋuwo kple woƒe wɔwɔme me dzrom ɣesiaɣi le aƒeme, eye aleae wòkpɔe out ehiã be wòawɔ nɔnɔme kple nɔnɔmewo hena agbenɔnɔ.

Esi emegbe le fiẽ sia me le Guido Palau ƒe eƒe ɖadzikpɔkpɔ ƒe fli yeye na Zara ƒe azãɖuɖu me la, metso mɔwo kple Katy England ƒe ƒomea (atsyãwɔla la nye Lee tɔ ɖeka xɔlɔ̃ veviwo), wo katã wodze abe ɖe wotɔtɔ vie ene. Ame sia ame si ƒo xlã mí la nɔ nu ƒom tso McGirr ƒe debut ŋu gblɔ be it’s a bit disappointing. Susu geɖe akpa, gake afikae ŋutega la le? Ðe wòate ŋu ato vovo hafia? Ke ne ɖeko afɔkpa siawo lolo akpa be woate ŋu asɔ ya ɖe? Enyo, McGirr ƒe ŋuɖoɖo ɖe ɖeklemiɖeɖe ŋu me kɔ nyuie, eyɔ Lee McQueen si gblɔna tsã le kpododonu ɖesiaɖe megbe be: “I’d rather people hated what I do than not give a shit about it”. Eye esiae na atsyãwɔla sia koŋ sɔ nyuie na Lee McQueen ƒe aƒea.

Seán McGirr ƒe nuƒoƒoƒu gbãtɔ na Alexander McQueen, si yɔ fũ kple nya siwo ƒo nu tso aɖaŋuwɔla gã la ƒe domenyinu kple amesi va xɔ ɖe eteƒe ƒe ɣeyiɣi siwo va yi ŋu la he ɖetsɔleme ƒe ahom, nyui kple vɔ̃ siaa vɛ. Gake emegbe gɔmedzedze koe wònye.Mele bɔbɔe be woakɔ atsyãwɔla gã aɖe ƒe afɔkpawo me o. Vevietɔ ne amesi ŋu nya ku ɖoe nye Lee McQueen gã la, si nuŋlɔlawo, nuƒlelawo, sukuviwo kple atsyã lɔ̃lawo kafu. Eye vava le nuwɔwɔ ƒe dɔdzikpɔla tsãtɔ Sarah Burton, Lee ƒe ɖusime lɔlɔ̃tɔ si nyi eƒe domenyinu tso esime wòku le ƒe 2010 me megbe teti la, mena tak la le bɔbɔe o. Seán McGirr si xɔ ƒe 35, si wodzi le Dublin la va ge ɖe aƒe si nye dzesi la me ɣleti ʋee aɖewo koe nye esia - hafi wòwɔ dɔ na Jonathan W. Anderson le eƒe ŋkɔ si wotsɔ nɛ me abe aɖaŋuwɔwɔ ƒe tatɔ ene, gake le eƒe nuwɔwɔ aduadu kple Japantɔwo ƒe asitsaha gã la hã me ame gã aɖe si woyɔna be Uniqlo. Eƒe stint le Dries Van Noten le eƒe dɔbiagbalẽvi, hã. Ewɔ dɔ ɖe ame dzi ŋutɔ.

Nuŋɔŋlɔ: LIDIA AGEEVA