In between two worlds: Proenza Schouler Autumn/Winter 2024

This season, New York City fashion darlings Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez explore the interplay between our private world and the outside one. 

It’s been a philosophical season so far, when designers are asking some burning questions that concern each and every one. Take, Peter’s Do sophomore collection for Humlut Lang, where the designer was wondering what is the meaning of the clothes. Is it armor or adornment? His answer was a bit of both. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler are also asking relevant questions, and taking philosophical thought one step further, trying to find out which roles our wardrobes play in our private and public lives.

“Feelings of discretion and privacy merge with moments of candor and display. This duality creates a friction rife with material for exploration”, the designers explained in the show notes. On the runway we saw enveloping layers and shirts and maxi dresses made from sensual sheer fabrics - silk knits in black and beige, jersey crepes in vibrant red and soft peach - that reveal the body, but keep you guessing and asking for more. There was also hand-sheared shearling, lots of leather, and a great bunch of double face cashmere - these soft layers are supposed to create protection and a feeling of ultimate coziness. The basics every city dweller needs when faced with the challenges of everyday life.

If it’s cold outside, you need to have proper protection but look chic. Thus, tailored black pea coats, extra long wool coats and parkas in technical nylon were also seen on the runway. Let’s call them outerwear essentials that any fashionista needs in his closet. Other highlights included impeccable tablier dresses in gold and black leather and perfect suits from men’s wardrobe in white, black and gray, colors that were omnipresent in the collection. You know, when you are dressing New Yorkers, they love when the color palette is also functional. Something that screams quite luxury, and gives a ‘90s Helmut Lang feeling where everything is just in its right place. No extras involved, thanks.

Accessories-wise, the iconic American duo focused on practical bags: small and intimate for your night outs, and bigger and spare ones for a busy day running around the city. What were Proenza Schouler models wearing on their feet marching to the sounds of Alice Coltrane’s “Going Home” piercing jazz track? Comfortable footwear! Think track sneakers in black nappa leather, nylon and suede, park loafers, toe ring sandals and ankle boots in black brushed calf. After all, you should feel at ease when you set your foot outside and decide to go the distance.

Text: LIDIA AGEEVA