Wan Lɛta fɔ Dray: HD Fashɔn mɛmba wan pan di aykɔnik disayna dɛn na di jɛnɛreshɔn

Na nyus we kam as sapraiz. Tude aftanun, Dries Van Noten bin announce se afta 28 yiez fo biznis im go step daun from im nemsake label. Im neks menswear sho fo Jun go bi im las. Though e stil de anda wraps hu go ful im shoes, wetin wi don sabi na se na di en of wan very beautiful era. Ɛn, yes, Dries go mis.

“In di erli '80s, as a yong boi fo Antwerp, mi drim na fo get vois fo fashon. Tru wan joyn we bring mi to London, Paris and biyond, and wit di helep of plenti pipul we de sopot mi, dat drim kom tru. Naw, a want fɔ shift mi maynd to ɔl di tin dɛn we a nɔ ɛva gɛt di tɛm fɔ. A sɔri, bɔt di sem tɛm a gladi, fɔ mek una no se a go step dɔŋ na di ɛnd ɔf Jun. A dɔn de pripia fɔ dis mɔnt fɔ sɔm tɛm, ɛn a fil se na tɛm fɔ lɛf rum fɔ nyu jɛnɛreshɔn pan talɛnt fɔ briŋ dɛn vishɔn to di brand”, na so Dries Van Noten ɛksplen insay in lɛta to di ɛditɔ dɛn. Mɔ pas jɔs wan stetmɛnt, bɔt mɔ na pɔsin in yon not to di kɔmyuniti we bin sɔpɔt am frɔm di fɔs de. Wit riferɛns to gadin wok, na tru se, in fav pastime. Bikɔs Dries nɔ ɛva bi jɔs dizayna, i dɔn de drim ɔltɛm, na gadin man we sabi fɔ gro di flawa dɛn we fayn pas ɔl ɛn kia fɔ dɛn gud gud wan.

Na fashɔn ɛntrɔprenɔ na di tɔd jɛnɛreshɔn, in granpa na bin tayla ɛn in yon mama ɛn papa bin de rul wan fashɔn boutique, Dries bin gradyuet frɔm di Royal Academy of Fine Arts ɛn bigin in wok pan man klos bɔt kwik kwik wan frɔm in fɔs Antwerp Six shorum na Lɔndɔn bin bi spɛshal pɔsin fɔ tayla fɔ man ɛn uman, miks print ɛn kɔlɔ dɛn na di di wan we sɔprayz pas ɔl pan di kɔmbaynshɔn dɛn. In sho dɛn bin de ɔltɛm (ɛn i at fɔ se “we” instead of “are”) na wan aylayt fɔ Paris Fashɔn Wik, usay i dɔn de sho 4 tɛm insay di ia fɔ pas 30 ia naw. Na wan arenjmɛnt fɔ fayn fayn fashɔn mɛmori dɛn. Ɔltɛm imɔshɔnal, daring, on point, wit shostopper sawnd trak, bɔt nɔ ɛva boring. Evri edita get tu-tri fevorit Dries’ moments. Wan big big bankwet tebul katwɔk, usay mɔdel dɛn bin rili waka pan di wayt tebul klos we de na wan dina tebul fɔ sɛlibret in 50th kɔlekɛshɔn. Di sho na di stej fɔ Opera Garnier. Kɔlabɔreshɔn wit in padi ɛn kɔmpin disayna Kristian Lakrɔks ɔ intɛriɔ lɛjɛnd Vɛnara Pantɔn. Wan rave na di ruf fɔ wan garaj we de na di ɔdasay na Paris. Di wan wit di gyal pikin dɛn, we bin de loung ɛn slip pan di grɔn kap we gɛt mɔs. Ɔ di wan we di bɔbɔ dɛn ol redio dɛn we de ple di sho sawnd trak we dɛn de waka rawnd di École des Beaux-Arts.

Dray bin bisin bɔt di pipul dɛn ɔltɛm. Pan ɔl we i de fa, in atizan dɛn na India fɔ am impɔtant lɛk in tim dɛn na Antwɛp ɛn Paris. Insai di wold we lax jayant Loro Piana in stori brok intanet fo di kes of miskondukt to Peruvian fama dem, we de wok witout pe to shear Vicuña wul fo di sweta dem we dem go sel leta fo tausin yuro, Van Noten in exampul pas se i valyu. I de sev layf.

Bɔku pan wi na in avid kɔlektor dɛn bak: Dries in sɛl fɔ padi ɛn fambul dɛn bi wan lɛjɛnd fɔ dɛnsɛf, wit di fans dɛn we bin de travul go na Antwɛp fɔ gɛt dɛn an pan di bɛst tin dɛn we dɛn dɔn fɛn frɔm di disayna we dɛn lɛk. Na tru se na in sho dɛm, yu kin ɔltɛm si di big big industri kritik dɛm, pipul dɛm we de bay ɛn inflɔɛns mek dɛm, we drɛs impeccably insay in klos. Wan akt fɔ tru tru lɔv, we big pas ɛni fɔmal industri aprɔval.

Insay 2014, Musée des Arts Décoratifs bin dediket wan solo sho to am, we fashɔn masta sabi bukman Pamela Golbin bin kɔrɛkt am ɛn we gɛt di taytul “Inspirations ”, usay yu kin rili go insay di Bɛljiɔm disayna in ed ɛn ɔndastand wetin dɛn mek in wɔl wit. A tink se a bin go bak to am pas tri tɛm. Infakt i bin so pɔpul bak insay di tɛm, dat di myuziɔm disayd fɔ kip am fɔ sɔm ɛkstra mɔnt. Ɛn dat na bin way bifo di blɔkbasta Dior ɛgzibishin, we, fɔ tɔk tru, bin gɛt ɔda badjɛt bɔt i nɔ bin gɛt di majik.

We Dries Van Noten bin sɛl in stek to di Spanish perfume jayant Puig bak insay 2018, wi ɔl bin de fred se i go du am lɔs in indipɛndɛns ɛn di kɔleshiɔn dɛn go bi mɔ kɔmɛshɔn. I pruv se wi nɔ rayt. Bifo dat, i bin fɛn mɔ trɛnk pan di patnaship ɛn i bin lanch biuti ɛn sɛnt prɔdak dɛn we nɔ gɛt wan bɔt, we fayn lɛk in klos. Ɛn kɔmplit eko-rɛspɔnsibul, yu kin ful-ɔp di arty kes ɛn bɔtul dɛn we nɔ gɛt ɛnd. Van Noten bin opin mɔ boutique dɛn bak ɔlsay na di wɔl wit stratejik flagship dɛn na Chaina ɛn Los Anjɛlis, ɛn wan mɔ boutique na Paris na Quais Malaquais insay wan fɔma antik galari, in kabinɛt fɔ curiosities. Lans wan ikɔm stoa, we na dijital vɛshɔn fɔ in shopin ɛkspiriɛns. Dries opin to di nyu jenereshɔn dɛm fɔ in fans, invayt mɔ kɔriɔs maynd dɛm fɔ fɛn biuti ɛn mininful klos to in yunivas. Ɛn naw, di plan na fɔ mek dis mɛkanism wok sote go, ivin if in at kam bak usay i bin de, in gadin.

Tɛks: Lidia Ageeva