Chanel Haut Kutur SS2024. Dikonstrɔkshɔn Balet Rɔs

Chanel gɛt wan kɔnsistɛns we nɔbɔdi nɔ go biliv we pɔsin kin jɔs drim bɔt. Ɔl wetin wi kɔl DNA ɛn ɛritij, dɛn gɛda am, katalog, bɔks, lɛbul, ɛn stak am na wan pafɛkt piramid, we mek ɔlman jɛlɔs: frɔm di brayt pikchɔ we Mademoiselle gɛt to di las wayt kamɛl, blak ribin, ɛn gold bɔtin. Di SS2024 couture kɔlɛkshɔn we dɛn kɔl The Button bin dediket to dis sem ditel. Bɔt pan ɔl di eponymous mini-muvi we pgLang bin savis, we Dave Free rayt ɛn dayrɛkt ɛn we Kendrick Lamar skor ɛn bak di défilé sɛt wit wan big bɔtin we hang ɔnda di siling we Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free, ɛn Mike Carson bin disayn, natin nɔ de bɔt di bɔtin dɛn we de na di kɔleshiɔn sɛf. Di rial inspɛkshɔn na Ballets Russes ɛn, as atis dairekta Virginie Viard tɛl wi, di kɔleshiɔn de fɔ di sɛntinari anivesari fɔ di biginin fɔ Chanel in kolaboreshɔn wit Diaghilev.

Ɛn bikɔs dɛn dɔn gi wi dis ki, wi nɔ ebul fɔ ɛp bɔt wi tray ɛn ple wit am. Dis ki izi fɔ opin di men domɔt fɔ dis rili brayt spring kɔlɛkshɔn, usay di balet yunifom dɛn de klia wan — insay di fɔm fɔ di lɛg ɛn lɛotard dɛn ɔnda ɔl di klos dɛn. Na dis na wan dres we tan lɛk wayt-pink-ɛn-golden plumage — udat in yon? Uswan pan Diaghilev in karakta dɛn i go fayn fɔ? L’Oiseau de feu we de na di wɔl? — Yɛs, sɔntɛm L’oiseau de feu, bɔt insay wan mɔ layt vɛshɔn frɔm Virginie Viard, ɛn nɔto insay wan sizzling wan frɔm Léon Bakst. Ɛn insay di las luk fɔ wan yawo we gladi ɛn we rili kɔntempɔri — Virginie Viard kin ɔltɛm sakrifays wit dɛn wan dɛn de — insay wan wayt mini wit puffy tulle slives ɛn wan lɔng kap tren biɛn in bak, Watteau&Rococo apia wantɛm wantɛm, jɔs lɛk di opin luk we Margaret bin prɛzɛnt Qualley wi si di wayt puffy kola na in Pierrot. Ɔ na sɔntin frɔm Ballets Russes bak? Fɔ ɛgzampul, di buk we nem Pétrouchka we Alexandre Benois rayt? Dis fayn fayn gem kin kɔntinyu, mɔ bikɔs Virginie Viard insɛf mɛmba Bakst ɛn in palet, ɛn i de ɛksplen bak di istri kɔnekshɔn bitwin Chanel ɛn balet, we de mɛmba wi se Chanel de sɔpɔt di Paris Opera Ballet te tide. Bɔt in jɔnal, di balet kɔntɛks nɔ de ɛmpɛsh ya ɛni we — dis na tɛnda, elegant ɛn, impɔtant, na izi stayl kɔllɛkshɔn we gɛt bɔku spɛktakular, bɔt natin nɔ de we tan lɛk tiyata.

Dɛn klos ya na bin, fɔ tru, sɛlibreshɔn fɔ métiers d’art we no Chanel kɔllɛkshɔn nɔ go ebul fɔ fɔgɛt — tul, ruffles, pleats ɛn les, embroideries we de sho draperies, mousseline plumes, bow ɛn flawa dɛn, ilyushɔn tul pɔkit dɛn, sɛkwin dɛn. Nɔn pan dɛn nɔ bin mek dɛn luk ya bulkier, we mek dɛn fil se dɛn gɛt airiness insted. Bɔt, we a go bak to di say we di bale bigin, di fɔs pikchɔ we kam na mi maynd, jɔs lɛk aw a si di fɔs luk dɛn wit transparent skit ɛn jɔmpsuit, nɔto bin Diaghilev ɔ Bakst, bɔt na bin Margiela wit in transparent protɛkshɔn kɔva we i bin de bin lɛk fɔ put pan tap difrɛn difrɛn luk dɛn. I tan lɛk se Virginie Viard dɔn disayd fɔ kɔntinyu di dikɔnstrɔkshɔn ɛgzampul we i bigin na di prêt-à-porter SS24 kɔlɛkshɔn wit di difrɛn klos dɛn we dɛn kɔt ɛn siŋ wit dɛnsɛf. Bɔt insay di haute couture vɛshɔn, dɛn du am wit dilikasi ɛn prɛsishɔn, we jɔs mek dis kɔleshiɔn mɔ impreshɔn.

Tɛks: Ɛlɛna Stafyeva

Kɔpirayt CHANEL