Fɛndi FW24: Nɔnchalɛns bitwin Lɔndɔn ɛn Rom

Kim Jones, di atis dairekta fɔ kuchɔ ɛn uman klos, de fɛn in we smɔl smɔl wit uman klos. Fɔ bigin wit di las kɔleshiɔn, i dɔn ad dikɔnstrɔkshɔn to in kamɛl-kɔlɔ mini shɔt ɛn print silk tynik, chenj di ɔl kɔlɔ palet – ɛn dɛn chenj ya dɔn ristrakt di stayl fɔ in uman kɔllɛkshɔn dɛn, bil di wan ol ɛnsambl bak ɛn mek i rili impɔtant.

Dis wok dɔn kɔntinyu ɛn go bifo na Fendi FW24. Kim Jones tɔk bɔt wan pan in inspɛkshɔn fɔ dis kɔlɛkshɔn: “A bin de luk 1984 na di Fendi arkiv. Di skech dɛm mek a mɛmba Lɔndɔn da tɛm de: di Blitz Kids, di Nyu Romantik dɛm, di adopshɔn fɔ wok klos, aristokratik stayl, Japan stayl...” Ɔl wetin i tɔk bɔt izi fɔ si na Fendi FW24: layt lɔs kot, bɛlt ɛn mɛmba wam dak winta kimono dɛn; Viktɔrian jakit dɛn we dɛn kin cinch na di wes, wit ay klos kɔla ɛn wayd flat sholda dɛn we dɛn mek wit wul gabardin, wit stret trayz, wan a-layn skit we dɛn mek wit tik polish lɛda; sweta dɛn we gɛt tɔlnɛk we dɛn rap rawnd di sholda dɛn; plaid fabrik in dasky hues.

Wan ɔda sɔs fɔ dis inspɛkshɔn tɔn aut fɔ bi kɔmplit di ɔpɔzit. “Na bin tɛm we di British sabkalchɔ ɛn stayl dɛn bin kam fɔ bi di wɔl ɛn dɛn bin de tek di tin dɛn we de apin na di wɔl. Yet stil wit wan British elegance in izi en no giv a damn wetin enibodi els tink, somtin we chimes wit Roman stail. Fendi gɛt bakgrɔn pan yutiliti. And di we aw di Fendi famili de dres, na rili wit ai pan dat. A mɛmba we a fɔs mit Silvia Venturini Fendi, i bin wɛr wan rili chik utilitarian sus – ɔlmost wan Safari sus. Dat bin rili shep mi we fɔ si wetin Fɛndi bi: na aw uman de drɛs we gɛt sɔntin we impɔtant fɔ du. Ɛn i kin ɛnjɔy insɛf we i de du am,” na so Mista Jɔns kɔntinyu fɔ tɔk. Ɛn dis tan lɛk se i ivin intrestin ɛn i nɔ klia: aw Rom ɛn Lɔndɔn kɔnɛkt insay dis ɔpdet Kim Jɔns we fɔ du tin? I klia se, Rom сomes to maynd we yu si di flowing organza luks wit wan print we de sho marble ed ɛn statu dɛm fɔ Madonnas (wan, i tan lɛk, na literally Michelangelo’s famous Pieta frɔm San Pietro cathedral), biaded circles pan ɔda silk luks; tin tɔlnɛk dɛn we dɛn mek lɛk layers, krisp wayt shit dɛn we tan lɛk wan Roman segnora, big chen dɛn, ɛn Italyan lɛda we nɔ gɛt wan bɔt we dɛn kin yuz fɔ mek jakit ɛn kot. Wetin de tay dɛn tu pat ya insay di mɔs kɔrɛkt ɛn intagreted ɛnsambl fɔ Jones in wok na Fɛndi? Fɔs, di kɔlɔ dɛn: dis tɛm i put togɛda wan pafɛkt rɛnj fɔ dak grey, kaki, dak si grɛn, bɔgɔn, dip brawn, bitrut, ɛn taupe. Ɛn ɔl dis na spak dɛn we gɛt brayt Fɛndi yɔlɔ we dɛn stich ɛn kɔnɛkt am.

Di rizɔlt na bin wan kɔleshiɔn we rili kɔmpleks, bɔt fɔ tru, fayn ɛn sofistikiet, we ɔl dis mɔlti-layering ɛn kɔmplisiti fɔ dizayn nɔ tan lɛk igen so fos, bɔt strayk wan as intrestin ɛn gɛt klia dizayn pɔtnɛshɛl we dɛn kin divɛlɔp ɛn diploy na difrɛn dairekshɔn dɛn. I tan lɛk se i nɔ go te igen dis ayt go klia: Kim Jones as uman klos disayna go ebul fɔ bi pɔsin we nɔ de tray, we de mek nyu tin dɛn, ɛn fri lɛk aw i de mek man klos.

Tɛks: Ɛlɛna Stafyeva