Gucci FW24: di triɔmp fɔ di klish dɛn

Di FW24 kɔlɛkshɔn bi di tɔd ɔvalayn ɛn di sɛkɔn rɛdi-to-wear we Sabato De Sarno disayn, so wi gɛt inof fɔ kɔnklud if a nyu Gucci don kam insay in yon. Di ansa na, nɔ, i nɔ dɔn du am — ɛn dis dɔn ɔlrɛdi klia. I klia bak se if ɛnitin de we fayn fɔ tɔk bɔt we gɛt fɔ du wit di nyu kɔleshiɔn, na di rizin dɛn fɔ dis kriyaytiv ineptitude.

Lɛ wi tɔk tru — natin nɔ de we spɛshal we nɔ rayt wit wetin De Sarno de du. Di kolεkshɔn na kwik prɔfɛshɔnal du ɛn ivin gɛt sɔm spunk — i go bi pafɛkt fɔ sɔm purely kɔmɛshɔnal brand we nɔ de mek lɛk se i bi fɔmativ to fashɔn. If De Sarno bin jɔyn Gucci afta Frida Giannini, ɔl dis fɔ dɔn bi ok, bɔt i tek ples fɔ Alessandro Michele, we bin de lid wan fashɔn rivɔlɔshɔn, shep kɔntempɔral fashɔn insay di kategori dɛn we dɔn bi kɔmɔn naw, ɛn tɔn Gucci to di flagship fɔ dis rivɔlɔshɔn. Na so De Sarno kam na Gucci na wan ay pɔynt na in istri — yes, nɔto na di rili pik, bɔt stil de na wan strɔng pozishɔn, ɛn na dat na di chalenj we i nɔ bin ebul.

Wetin wi si pan di runway dis taim? Maykro-ɔval ɛn maykro-shɔt, voluminous pea jakit, kot, ɔ kadigan, we dɛn wɛr we nɔ gɛt ɛni bɔt — ɔl dis ɔ wit ay but ɔ wit big big pletfɔm (we de Sarno, i tan lɛk, disayd fɔ mek in yon sayn pies). Maykro sɔntin wit big ebi ebi lɔng kot ɛn trench, slip dres, wit ɔ atɔl les, wit ɔ atɔl slit, bɔt stil wit di sem ay but. Knitwear ɛn kot dɛn we dɛn trim wit sɔntin lɛk shayn Krismas tik tinsel ɔ shayn sɛkwin — ɛn dis hang shimmering tinsel na bin, i tan lɛk, di wangren nyu tin we di nyu art dairekta bin du. Ɔl ɔda tin na dis kɔleshiɔn bin fil se i nɔ klia wit di wan we bin de bifo — ɛn we impɔtant mɔ wit bɔku ɔda wan dɛn we ɔda pipul dɛn mek.

Dɔn bak, wi dɔn si dis shayn Krismas tinsel bɔku tɛm ɔlrɛdi na Dries van Noten kɔllɛkshɔn dɛn — bak pan di sem big, lɔng kot dɛn. Wi si dɛn ay but ya, ivin wit di sem kayn panti/mini shɔt ɛn kadigan dɛn na di lɛjɛndari Prada FW09 kɔllɛkshɔn, ɛn dɛn slip dres ya wit kɔntrast les kɔmɔt dairekt frɔm di Phoebe Filo’s kɔllɛkshɔn fɔ Celine SS2016. Ɛn dat bin fɔ dɔn fayn if Sabato de Sarno bin put ɔl dɛn rɛfrɛns ya insay sɔm ɔrijinal kɔnsɛpt fɔ insɛf, prosɛs dɛn tru sɔm kayn in yon vishɔn, ɛn ɛmbas dɛn insay in yon aesthetics. Bɔt ivin if i gɛt sɔm skil dɛn, we in wok dɔn klia wan bays pan, i nɔ gɛt ɛni vishɔn ɛn i nɔ gɛt ɛni aydia bɔt Gucci as kɔt ed fashɔn brand.

So, wetin wi gɛt ya? Na wan sɛt fɔ fashɔn klish de, insay we yu kin fɛn ɔl di tin dɛn we de apin naw, we dɛn dɔn gɛda ɛn arenj fayn fayn wan. Na wan rather emasculated sleek luk de we luk laik se dem de trai fo eliminate Michele en rivaiv Ford. Wan established ɛn kwik spɛktakular kɔlɔ palet de wit wan prɛdominant ɔf sɛtyuret rɛd, grɛn, tɛrakota, ɛn mɔs hues. Ɔltogɛda, wan dip derivativ bɔt wɛl put togɛda kɔmɛshɔnal kɔllɛkshɔn de, we Gucci nɔ gɛt wan dawt fɔ put big kɔmɛshɔnal op dɛn — arguably, quite legitimate. Bɔt, natin nɔ de insay dis kɔleshiɔn we de difayn fashɔn, we de gi wi vishɔn bɔt wisɛf na di wɔl tide, we de kech wi maynd, ɛn mek wi at skip wan bit. Dɔn bak, sɔntɛm Gucci in ambishɔn nɔ de go fa so—ɔ at ɔl i nɔ de go dis tɛm. Sɔntɛm glamorization ɔf stayl ova sɔbstans go bi nyu fashɔn rialiti — bɔt if dat apin, wi go op se i nɔ go bi fɔ lɔng tɛm.

Tɛks: Ɛlɛna Stafyeva