Ɛmɛs FW24: Fɔ Empower Uman dɛn

Wetin mek Hermès bi di men lɔjishɔn os na di wɔl? Apat frɔm di pafɛkt we rili ɛni wan pan di tin dɛn we gɛt di lɛbl, ɔda tin de bak. Na kwaliti we nɔ izi fɔ ɔndastand, we at fɔ ɛksplen ɛn ivin at fɔ mek i bɔn bak, bɔt di sem tɛm na impɔtant wan — we wi kɔl ɔndastatɛm. Dis kwaliti na di abiliti fɔ prɛzɛnt di mɔs unkɔmprɔmis lɔjishɔn in di mɔs serene ɛn nonchalant we, fɔ put fɔdɔm sɔntin we kɔmplit wan ɛksɛpshɔn frɔm ɛvri pɔynt fɔ si inklud in prayz as sɔntin we natura ɛn ivin simpul, ɛn, nɔ lɛk fɔ bɔku pan dɛn kɔmpitɛt dɛn, fɔ Hermès dis na immanent characteristic, na natural attribute, so fɔ se. Dis nɔ gɛt natin fɔ du wit kwayɛt lɔjishɔn we wi de yɛri bɔku bɔt dɛn tɛm ya, ɛn we na absoliutli invent, artificially constructed kɔnsɛpt. Yu nɔ go si di nem Ɛmɛs pan ɛni klos we kɔmɔt na dis kɔleshiɔn, bɔt di sem tɛm, yu kin rili no ɛni wan pan dɛn we yu luk am fɔs. Na kwayɛt lɔjishɔn? A nɔ shɔ, bɔt a no se dis na di ɔltimat lɔjishɔn.

I dɔn te we Hermès uman dɛn bin de luk so strɔng — di kɔnstant ɛkwistrian motif ɛn nɔto so rɛgyula rɛfrɛns to baykman dɛn mek wan tru sinajɛs ya . Nadège Vanhee, we na di atis dairekta fɔ di uman dɛn kɔleshiɔn, se di rɛfrɛns fɔ dis kɔleshiɔn kam, wit ɔda tin dɛn, frɔm Briten — we wi kin si bak na Hermès istri jɔs fɔ mɛmba Jean Paul Gaultier in FW2010 Anglophilia kɔllɛkshɔn — ɛn i rili bɔku pan di British klashik dem we de insay: ebi trench kot, renkot, raydin jakit en but, quilted pad dem we yu kin pul, ol luk lek se dem jos komot fo The Crown series. Bɔt Hermès uman dɛn kin gɛt dɛn trɛnk nɔto so mɔ pan dɛn tin ya we rili sofistikieted, bɔt, pas ɔl, insay tɔtal lɛda luk — insay voluminous jakit dɛn wit rawnd sholda dɛn we gɛt insay bɛlt we yu kin yuz fɔ cinch di wɛst, insay di tayt, bɔdi- ɔg strɛch lɛda trayz, we dɛn krop ɛn we dɔn flay smɔl, insay Nadège Vanhee in signɛshɔn lɛda tɔp dɛn wit strap dɛn rawnd di nɛk, insay tayt fit, lɔng lɔng vest dɛn we dɛn bɔtin te to di chin. Na wan separet not, di kɔlɛkshɔn bin gɛt tu kɔmplit krayse pis: sɔm kayn shɔt shearling apron/vest ɛn wan lɛda bɔmba jakit wit silk quilted sliv ɛn ɛmbroideri wit glos ɔstrich fɛda dɛn we dɛn kɔt insay tu fɔ falamakata ɔs mane. Di fכ silk dres dεm wit 1970s silhouettes we mek am insay dis kכlεkshכn כnli εnfaz dis kכnsantreyt pawa, we mek wan sכpכt kכntrast wit dεn fragility.

En us kכla dεn bin yuz! I nɔ nid fɔ tɔk se di we aw dɛn pik di palet ɛn kɔlɔ kɔmbaynshɔn na strɔng pɔynt ɔltɛm fɔ Ɛmɛs, bɔt dis tɛm di kɔlɔ dɛn bin rili kapchɔ ɛn, yes, strɔng bak. Rich bɔgɔn, dense chɔklɛt, di shed we saf pas ɔl fɔ di spɛshal étoupe d’Hermès, ɛn bak di kɔlɔ we dɛn jɔs bit Frɛnch bɔta ɛn wan skarlet we de shayn, we de bɔn we gɛt sɔm kayn pawa we yu nɔ go ebul fɔ imajin. Dɛn ɔl bin mek wan strɔng impreshɔn ɔl tu na di podium ɛn we dɛn luk am gud gud wan na di shorum.

Nayn ia bifo naw, Nadège Vanhee bin bigin in stint na Hermès wit jɔs da kayn strɔng ɛn ivin austere uman dɛn de, ɛn dis trɛnk bin de in stetmɛnt frɔm di fɔs kɔleshiɔn, bɔt afta dat dis stern chik bin fade sɔm kayn we frɔm in wok. Ɛn naw dis rigor ɛn austerity de kam bak to Ɛmi, bɔt insay wan nyu we, we dɛn jɔyn nɔto wit fɔ de fa, bɔt wit kɔnfidɛns ɛn ivin fɔ du mami ɛn dadi biznɛs, bɔt jɔs lɛk di kayn we na Ɛmi nɔmɔ kin gɛt, we nɔ gɛt ɛni sɛksualization, ɛksplɔyt, ɛn . Wel, mek di Fos de wit.

Tɛks: Ɛlɛna Stafyeva