Rayda dɛn insay di storm: Seán McGirr in fɔs ple fɔ Alɛgzanda Makwin Ɔtɔm-Winter 2024

McGirr bin prezant in fɔs kɔleshiɔn na wan ol tren steshɔn na di ɔdasay na Paris, di de we ren kin kam pas ɔl na Paris fashɔn wik: so, di asid yɔlɔ/grin blankit dɛn we dɛn kin put pan ɛvri sidɔm ples fɔ mek di gɔst dɛn wam. Insay in sho not dɛn, di Ayrish disayna bin tɔk se i want in fɔs kɔleshiɔn fɔ bi “A rough opulence. Rivɛl di animal we de insay”. Bakstej, McGirr ɛksplen se bikɔs na in fɔs aut fɔ Alɛgzanda Makwin, ɛn i fil lɛk pɔsin we kɔmɔt na do, i bin want fɔ pe atɛnshɔn pan Li in fɔs kɔllɛkshɔn dɛn lɛk “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) frɔm di 90s, we di layt disayna insɛf bin fil lɛk pɔsin we kɔmɔt na do. “Wetin a laik fo am na se, evritin rili simpul, bot e twist likl. Na fɔ mek wit ɛnitin we yu gɛt. Lee bin de tek klashik elemɛnt lɛk jakit ɛn twist am ɛn krɔs am ɛn si wetin de apin”. So i bin rili gɛt DIY filin to di kɔleshiɔn, ɛn di ɛnaji we di yɔŋ pipul dɛn na Lɔndɔn bin gɛt. Yes, McGirr de ya fɔ shek di tin dɛn, ɛn na so i du!

Seán McGirr opin in kɔleshiɔn wit wan distɔrj drap dres insay blak laminated jɔs we de rɛfrɛns di fambul klingfilm dres frɔm “The Birds”, di mɔdel bin ol in an dɛn na in chɛst. Tide nait, na ol tin bin de tok abaut karakta dem fo London we yu no sabi yet, bot go laik fo mit. Dɔn, na bin lɛda trench ɛn ditektiv hat, ɛn wan gud doz fɔ McQueen in rɛfrɛns dɛn - tink gɔn dɛn wit animal print, asid kɔlɔ, ros aksesɔri ɛn di fambul skel motif. Dɛn tek di silhouettes to di ekstrem: big chunky knits wit kɔla dɛn ɔp oba di ed (hello, Martin Margiela!) na bin wan pan di kɔleshiɔn in aylayt dɛn. Sɔm kɔuti tɛknik dɛn bin de bak we dɛn nɔ bin de ɛkspɛkt: wan minidrɛs we gɛt smash chandal ɛn rɛd ɛn ɔrɛnj baysikul riflɛkta ɛmbroideri, lɛk se dɛn mek am wit di tin dɛn we dɛn fɛn afta motoka krash. Ɛn di las tri luk, di motoka dres, we dɛn mek wit stɛl, we gɛt kɔlɔ lɛk yɔlɔ Fɛra, kobalt blu Aston Martin ɛn blak Tesla. McGirr bin ɛksplen bakstej se in papa na mɛkanik, bɔt i nɔ jɔs bi ɔmajɛshɔn to wan famili mɛmba, mɔ na trip dɔŋ di mɛmori len: we i bin smɔl dɛn bin de tɔk ɔltɛm bɔt motoka ɛn dɛn dizayn na os, ɛn na so i fɛn aut i nid fɔ mek shep ɛn fɔm fɔ liv.

We leta dis ivintɛm na Guido Palau in sɛlibreshɔn fɔ in nyu haircare lain fɔ Zara a krɔs rod wit Katy England in famili (di staylist na bin wan pan Lee in yon klos padi dɛm), dɛn ɔl bin luk lɛk se dɛn kɔnfyus smɔl. Everibodi around wi bin de tok abaut McGirr’s debut se i disapointin likl. Tumɔs aydia, bɔt usay di vishɔn de? Yu tink se i bin fɔ dɔn difrɛn? Wetin fɔ du if dɛn sus ya jɔs tu big fɔ fit? Wel, McGirr in ansa to kritik na kwik klia, i kot Lee McQueen we bin de se afta evri failure: “I’d rather pipul et wetin a de du pas no giv shit abaut am”. Ɛn na dat mek dis patikyula disayna bi gud fit fɔ di os fɔ Li Makwin.

Di fɔs kɔllɛkshɔn we Seán McGirr bin mek fɔ Alɛgzanda Makwin, we ful-ɔp wit rɛfrɛns to di big disayna in lɛgsi ɛn in saksesɔ in past, bin mek wan big big intres, ɔl tu di fayn ɛn bad. Bɔt afta dat, na jɔs di biginin.I nɔ izi fɔ ful-ɔp di sus fɔ wan big disayna. Ɛspɛshali if di pɔsin we dɛn de tɔk bɔt na di big Li Makwin, we ɛditɔ, bayer, studɛnt ɛn jɛnɛreshɔn we lɛk fashɔn de prez. Ɛn fɔ kam jɔs afta di fɔma kriyaytiv dairekta Sarah Burton, Lee in rayt-an we i lɛk we bin mɛn in lɛgsi sins i day insay 2010, nɔ de mek di tak izi. Di 35 ia ol, Dublin-born Seán McGirr join di ikonik haus jos som mun afta - bifo im wok fo Jonathan W. Anderson fo im nem lebul as di edman fo dizain, bot tu fo im kolaboreshɔn wit di Japan mas makit jayant we nem Uniqlo. I gɛt stint na Dries Van Noten pan in rizyum, bak. Impreshɔnal.

Tɛks: LIDIA AGEEVA