Sent Lɔrɛnt FW24: ɔpgrɛd di lɛgsi

No dawt nɔ go de se di men tin we Anthony Vaccarello dɔn du na di we aw i ebul fɔ no ɛn adap di lɛgsi we Yves Saint Laurent bin gɛt , ɛn di kɔnvinsin intagreshɔn fɔ di men silhouettes fɔ YSL insay di mɔdan SL. I nɔ bin apin wantɛm wantɛm ɛn i tek am sɔm ia, bɔt naw, wit ɛvri nyu sizin, in tek-ɔva de luk mɔ ɛn mɔ kɔnvinsin ɔl tu pan volyum ɛn silhouette, ɛn pan matirial ɛn tɛkstɔr.

Fɔs, lɛ wi tɔk bɔt di volyum dɛn. We sɔm ia bifo, Vaccarello bin fɔs sho stret jakit dɛn wit ɛmpɛtik wayd ɛn stif sholda, we kɔmɔt frɔm di wan dɛn we Yves Saint Laurent bin mek insay di fɔs 1980s, na bin in fɔs dairekt intavɛnshɔn insay Yves in lɛgsi — ɛn wan we rili impreshɔnal pan dat. Frɔm da tɛm de, big sholda dɛn dɔn so kɔmɔn dat wi de si dɛn rili insay ɛni wan pan di kɔleshiɔn dɛn. Som taim, Vaccarello bigin fo daunsayz di volyum dem, we bi di rait muv, en fo SL FW24 na onli wan tu so jakit dem bin de wit big sholda. Dat se, plenti fur bin de — as in jenerol dis sizin — en e bin voluminous. Klosap ɔl di mɔdel bin gɛt big fluffy fur kot — na dɛn an ɔ na dɛn sholda, bɔt mɔ tɛm na dɛn an — ɛn dɛn kɔmɔt frɔm di fambul haute couture PE1971 kɔllɛkshɔn wit in aykɔnik shɔt grɛn fur kot, we tek siriɔs bit frɔm di kritik dɛn bak da tɛm de.

Naw, di tɛkstɔr dɛn. If dis kɔlɛkshɔn bin gɛt wan tim, na bin transparency, we bin rili saksesful wan kɔynsayd wit di nyu ɛgzibishin we dɛn bin opin Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Di men tin ya na di transparent narrow skirts, we Vaccarello in jenerol mek in men ficha, en transparent bustiers bin de tu en, of kos, klashik YSL transparent blouses wit bows. Bɔt ɔl dis transparency, sɔntɛm bikɔs ɔf di bɔku bɔku beige ɛn sand we Vaccarello lɛk naw, we bi di men kɔlɔ dɛn na di kɔleshiɔn, bin tan lɛk lɛtɛks BDSM smɔl, ɛn lɛk Kubrick in say-fi smɔl. Dis, na tru, na di kayn mami ɛn dadi biznɛs we Yves Saint Laurent nɔ ɛva gɛt, wit ɔl in want fɔ gɛt smɔl fɔlt, bɔt kwik bɔjwɔ seductiveness we dɛn bin rili aylayt insay Helmut Newton in fambul foto dɛn bɔt YSL uman dɛn insay di 1970s. Bɔt dis na di ajɔstmɛnt we Vaccarello de mek SL rili impɔtant tide.

To dis sem aesthetic niche of di 1970s yu kin ad di strɔkchɔ pi jakit dɛn we dɛn mek wit shayn lɛda, we dɛn wɛr jɔs wit bare leg. Ɛn di edskaf dɛn we dɛn tay rawnd di mɔdel dɛn ed, ɛn di big big iaklips ɔnda dɛn — jɔs lɛk Loulou de La Falaise insay di 1970s, we dɛn kech pan foto wit Yves na sɔm nayt klab, we dɛn ɔl tu, tu sta dɛn na bohemian Paris, bin de na dɛn prime.

Infakt, dis imej fɔ di klashik Frɛnch biuti ɛn Frɛnch chik na Les Trente glorieuses na wetin Vaccarello de chanɛl naw. Ɛn di men minstrel fɔ di klashik Parisian biuti — ilɛksɛf na in padi dɛn Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, yu nem am — na bin Yves Saint Laurent insɛf, we bin sɛlibret dɛn kayn divas ya, femmes fatale, ɛn ɔda ɛmbodimɛnt dɛn fɔ klashik Parisian feminiti . Tide, Anthony Vaccarello dɔn saksesfuli mek dis imej in yon, briŋ am bak to layf insay dis ɔpgrɛd ɛn kwik mɔdan vɛshɔn, we dɔn rivaiv Yves Saint Laurent insay in mɔs aykɔnik ɛn bɛst-adopted bay pɔpul kɔlchɔ imej. Wɛl, dis na, as di Frɛnch pipul dɛn go se, une très belle kɔllɛkshɔn, très féminine, we dɛn kin kɔle am wit ɔl in at — i bin manej YSL in chenj frɔm di tɛm we bin dɔn pas to di tɛm we wi de naw fayn fayn wan.

Tɛks: Ɛlɛna Stafyeva