Dior Haute Couture SS2024: Aura leh reproduction inkara haute couture

Maria Grazia Chiuri hlawhtlinna langsar tak pakhat chu a Dior show standard a siam a, theatricals leh poetics te a paih chhuak a ni a hmaa a lo awm tawhte chu a thlak danglam a, chu chu contemporary art leh feminism hmanga thlak a ni. Tin, a collection-a conventional beauty framework-ah a awm reng laiin, feminist spirit zawng zawng chu shows’ setup-ah a project vek a, hmeichhe artist-te chu ti turin a sawm a ni. Tun ṭumah hian oversized dress 23 a awm a, pakhat ṭheuh chu metre 5-a sang a ni a, Italian artist kum 92 mi Isabella Ducru siam niin, traditional weaving technique hmanga siam textile hmanga hna a thawk a ni. Big Aura tia koh a ni.

“Aura” tih thumal hian Walter Benjamin leh a aesthetic theory min kawk nghal a, chutah chuan “aura” chu a hnua art philosophy pumpui nghawngtu concept pawimawh ber a ni Kum 100 a ni tawh. Aura chu chu thlarau lam thil, kutchhuak pakhat hual veltu leh a mizia hrang hrang: dikna, a chanchin, a chhuahna hmun – inzawmna hmuna lo chhuak chu a ni a, a tawpah chuan chu ritual thianghlim, eng art pawhin a bul a zawn theihna tur chu a inzawm tlat a ni. Painting emaw, lemchan thiam pawl emaw hmaa an inhnim pil hian entuin a hriat dan a ni. He aura hi art mechanical reproduction hunlai, thlalak leh cinema hunlai khan a chhe tan a, chu chu thutlukna siamin kum 1930 chhoah khan a sang ber a ni a, Benjamin-a’n a essay lar tak The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction a ziah khan a ni. Maria Grazia Chiuri hian he concept hi haute couture-ah direct-in a hmang a, chu chu mi pakhat taksa danglam bik atana siam thawmhnaw danglam tak leh ultimate excellence nena executed a ni. Maison Dior-in a inbiakpawhnaa a tarlan angin, haute couture-ah hian aura ang chi dimension a awm a: thil tawn chak tak, ngaihtuahna mai ni lovin, performative pawh a ni.

Defilé chu hmeichhe aw ri chuan “weft and warp” tih thumal a sawi nawn leh nawn leh atanga tan a ni. All-cotton look-a inthuam model-te chu trench coat-a classical color nei leh an pianzia tilangtu chu aw ri aṭangin an rawn chhuak a ni. Model tam zawk an chhuah chhoh zel avangin trench lemte chu zawi zawiin embroidery leh skirt sei takah a insiam a, Dior New Look dress, watered silk atanga siam, moiré tia hriat bawk a lo ni ta a ni. Chutiang chuan couture atana puan hlui ber ni lo cotton chu puan ropui leh man to ber zinga mi moiré nen an inzawm khawm ta a ni. Cotton leh moiré chu Dior haute couture collection PE24-a weft leh warp a lo ni ta a, Chiuri ngei pawhin “puan pahnih inhnialna neia langte inbiakna” tia a sawi, supportive framework a siam ta a ni. Tin, he collection lungphum chu AH1952-53 Dior archive collection atanga La Cigale moiré dress a ni a, Harper's Bazaar chuan September 1952 issue-ah "grey moiré, so heavy that it looks like a pliant metal."

Maria Grazia Chiuri-i'n moiré a hman hmasak ber a ni a, a styling potential bakah La Cigale silhouette-a thil awm thei te pawh a ngaihven hle tih i hmu thei a, a pawn lam a awlsamna leh a chhung lam complexity of the cut and structure . Mahse kan duh ber chu loose chartreuse gown in shades of amber with a draped shoulder kha French courtiers emaw New Look emaw min hriatchhuah tir lo a, mahse a aura, min freeze tir lo a nih pawhin literally called out a relevance vangin podium atangin kan hnenah. Аs Benjamin chuan, “kan thil en aura hriat chian tih awmzia chu a let lehna tur min en theihna nen invest tihna a ni.”

Thuziak: Elena Stafyeva

Thlalak: Dior\ © Adrien Dirand, © Laura Sciacovelli