Gucci FW24: cliche-te hnehna

FW24 collection hi a pumpuiah pathumna a ni a, Sabato De Sarno-a design ready-to-wear pahnihna a ni bawk a, chuvangin a Gucci thar a rawn lut ta. A chhanna chu, ni lo, a ni lo — hei hi a chiang tawh hle. Tin, collection thar nena inzawm hian sawiho tlak thil a awm a nih chuan he thil siam chhuah thiam lohna chhan hi a ni tih pawh a chiang tak zet a ni.

I sawi chhuak ila — De Sarno thil tih hi a bik takin a dik lo a ni lo. Collection hi professional takin a siam a, spunk engemaw zat pawh a nei bawk — fashion lama formative anga inlan lo purely commercial brand thenkhat tan chuan a tha ber ang. Frida Giannini hnuah De Sarno hian Gucci hi zawm ta se, heng zawng zawng hi a ok vek ang, mahse fashion revolution kaihruaitu Alessandro Michele a thlak a, tuna a lo awm tawh category-ah hian contemporary fashion a siam a, Gucci chu he revolution flagship-ah a chantir ta a ni. Chutiang chuan De Sarno chu a chanchina hmun sang takah Gucci-ah a lo thleng ta a — a ni, a sang ber lai takah ni lovin, dinhmun nghet takah a la ding reng a, chu chu a hlawhchhamna chu a ni.

Eng nge kan hmuh tun tum chu runway a ni em? Micro-overalls leh micro-shorts, voluminous pea jackets, coats, emaw cardigans, bottoms awm lo — heng zawng zawng hi boots sang tak tak emaw, platform lian tak tak nei emaw (chu chu de Sarno-a chuan, a lan dan chuan, a signature piece siam a tum niin a lang). Micro thil lian tak tak, coat sei rit tak tak leh trench nei, slip dress, lace nei emaw nei lo emaw, slit nei emaw nei lo emaw, mahse boots sang ang chiah nen. Knitwear leh coat-te chu Christmas tree tinsel eng mawi tak emaw, sequin eng mawi tak emaw ang chi thil hmanga tihfai a ni — tin, he tinsel eng mawi tak innghat hi, art director thar thil thar awmchhun a ni niin a lang. He collection-a thil dang zawng zawng hi a hmaa mi nen chuan a inthlau vek niin a lang — chu chu midang siam dang tam takah chuan a pawimawh zawk bawk.

Chutah pawh, he Krismas tinsel eng mawi tak hi Dries van Noten collection-ah vawi tam tak kan hmu tawh a — chutiang bawka lian, sei takah pawh coats te pawh a awm. Heng boots sang tak takte hi kan hmu a, legendary Prada FW09 collection-a panty/mini shorts leh cardigans inang lo tak tak nen pawh kan hmu a, heng slip dress, contrasting lace nei te hi Celine SS2016 tana Phoebe Filo’s collections atanga lak chhuah direct a ni. Tin, chu chu Sabato de Sarno-a chuan heng reference zawng zawng hi a original concept engemaw zat chhungah dahin, a vision chi khat hmangin a process a, a aesthetics-ah a dah lut ta se a tha ang. Mahse thiamna engemaw zat nei mah se, chu chu a career a innghahna chiang tak a ni a, Gucci hi cutting edge fashion brand anga ngaihna a nei lo va, ngaihtuahna pawh a nei lo.

Chuti a nih chuan, hetah hian eng nge kan neih? Fashion cliches set a awm a, a chhungah chuan tunlai trend zawng zawng, assemble leh arranged felfai tak tak te chu i hmu thei ang. Michele tihbo leh Ford tihnun tumna ang maia lang chu rather emasculated sleek look a awm. Saturated red, green, terracotta, leh mushroom hues te a tam zawk a, color palette established leh hmuhnawm tak a awm bawk. A pum puiin, deeply derivative mahse well put together commercial collection a awm a, chutah chuan Gucci hian rinhlelh rual lohvin sumdawnna lama beiseina ropui tak a dah a ni — arguably, quite legitimate. Mahse, he collection-ah hian fashion sawifiahtu, tunlai khawvela kan inhriat dan tur min pe a, kan rilru a man a, kan thinlung chu a skip tir thei lo. Tichuan, Gucci-a thil tum chu chutiang khawpa hlaah chuan a zau lo mai thei—a nih loh leh tun dinhmunah chuan a tlem berah chuan a zau lo mai thei. Substance aiin style glamorization hi fashion reality thar a ni mai thei — mahse chutiang a nih chuan rei tak a nih loh kan beisei ang.

Thuziak: Elena Stafyeva