Paolo Roversi in Galliera musée de la mode de la ville de Paris

Hei hi Paolo Roversi-a kutchhuak lian ber – a lian ber, a nihna takah chuan – a ni lo va, Paris-a a hmasa ber a ni bawk a, kum 1973-a fashion photographer hna a thawh tanna khawpui a ni a, Parisian Fashion Museum Palais Galliera-ah he exhibit hi hawn a ni. Organizer-te hian thlalak hna 140 an thawhkhawm a, mipuiin an la hmuh ngai loh ṭhenkhat pawh an dah tel a, magazine, lookbook, Roversi’s footage hmanga sawmna leh thlalaktu palaroid te ang chi thil an dah belh bawk. Heng zawng zawng hi Museum-a thlalak khawnkhawmna head curator Sylvie Lécallier chuan a rawn khawm a ni. Roversi-a thlalakna kum 50 tlin lawmna atana a vawi khat nan an rawn hlan dun a, tlawhtute hnenah a art-a lut tur leh a hnathawh dan an entir a ni.

Roversi-a kutchhuak tam zawk hi a tlangpuiin, a bik takin he exhibition-ah hian portrait a ni (a camera duh ber leh ui pakhat thlalak pawh a awm ve mai thei a, a duh ber pawh a ni mai thei, mahse anmahni pawh hi portrait of sorts an ni). Tin, a hnathawh dan bik avang hian Portraits’ subject tam zawk chu model an ni a; Kum 30 kalta chhunga fashion model lar zawng zawng nen an thawk dun tawh a, mahse milar thlalak a shoot tam lo hle. Mahse, model lar tak takte a shoot lai pawh hian mipui hriat hlawh clichés chu a reproduce ngai lo: a subject-te chu sexy goddesses, flirty girls, androgynous androids, emaw, stereotype lar dang emaw angin a typecast lo. A interview-naah chuan Roversi-a chuan a art chungchang a sawi a, “technique” tiin a sawi a, “art” a ti lo va, “kan zavaiin expression mask chi khat kan nei vek a, in inhmuhna tur a ni a, i nuih a za a, i hlau a, heng mask zawng zawng hi lak chhuah ka tum a, thil thianghlim tak i neih hma loh chuan tlem tlem a subtract-a lak chhuah ka tum a ni.Hei hi a awm lohna chi khat a ni a, mahse, ka rilru a buai em em a ni. Technique."

Kate Moss hi heroin chic lalnu angin a lang lo a, Natalia Vodianova chu fawn hlauhawm tak angin a lang lo a, Stella Tennant pawh Virginia Woolf’s Orlando angin a lang lo. An vaia thil thleng chu Roversi-a sawi ang chiah kha a ni: heng mask zawng zawng hi thil thianghlim chauh a la awm loh thlengin a la vek a ni. Paradoxically, he a camera-in a siam he disengagement hian a entu leh model-te inkar hlat zawng a tizau lo va, a ti tlem a, an mihring nihnaah min hnaih tir a, anmahni mimal idiosyncrasies zawng zawng nen. Hei hi NUDI series-ah chuan a langsar hle a, kum 1983-a Vogue Homme tana Inès de la Fressange-a nude portrait aṭanga ṭan a ni a, a career-a a san ber ṭum a ni a, chutah chuan a private project-ah a chhunzawm a, chutah chuan model lar leh hmingthang lo tak tak a thlalak a ni. Chutiang bawkin – naked, full-size portrait, camera chhunga direct-a en, direct full light hnuaia thlalak awm lo, black and white-a shot, a hnuah 20x30 polaroid-a re-shot – leh hei hian distancing leh unifying effect a siam a, chu chuan depth leh expressiveness bik a siam a ni. Exhibition-ah hian room hran hranah an khawn khawm a ni – hei hi a khawih ber pawh a ni mai thei, a chhan chu heng taksa saruakte hi eng sexualization pawh nei lo an ni.

A tlangpuiin Roversi hian 8x10 Polaroid camera hmanga hnathawh hi a duh a, film siamna tur film siam a ni tawh lo a, a hmuh theih zawng zawng a lei tawh thu a sawi angin thlalaktu chuan a duh bawk. He camera hi a style danglam tak leh hriat hlawh tak nen a inzawm ta a, chu chuan colour leh light hmangin painting pakhat effect a siam a ni. Tin, camera dang a hman lai pawhin effect a awm bawk. Mi tam tak chuan he effect hi copy an tum a, an tum mek a, mahse a rah chhuah chu AI hnathawh hriatrengna thil a ni tlangpui. Roversi-a original magical realism chu exhibition-ah hian chipchiar takin a lang thei a – Vogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, leh Luncheon-a a shoot-naah te, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, leh Romeo Gigli-a a campaign-naah te pawh a lang chiang hle. Exhibition-a scenographer Ania Martchenko-i hnathawh chuan a signature Trompe-l’œil chu window emaw, kawngkhar inhawng tlem emaw ang maia siamin, metaphorically leh literal takin master-in light a hman chu a ngaih pawimawh ber a ni.

mahse Paolo Roversi’s very interaction with fashion, with fashion collections, chu a danglam hle – a shoot a, a shoots a, a secondary subject of the picture a ni a, mahse thlalak te chu fashion a ni tawh lo. Amah ngeiin a sawi angin: “Thawmhnaw hi fashion picture-a thil lian tak a ni.A thupuiah hian a tel lian hle a ni.Kei atan chuan fashion picture tin hi thlalak ang maia awm mah se – thlalak tinreng hi ka hmu a, ka enkawl a, hmeichhia emaw mipa emaw mipa emaw mipa emaw naupang emaw angin ka hmu a, mahse, thawmhnaw chu a awm reng a, an thlalak hrilhfiahna chu a harsa zawk thei a ni.”

Thubuai siamsakna hmun: © Paolo Roversi