Riders in the storm: Seán McGirr-a’n Alexander McQueen Autumn-Winter 2024-a a khelh hmasak ber a ni

McGirr hian a debut collection chu Paris khawpui pawn lama rel station hluiah a present a, chu chu Paris fashion week-a ruah sur tam ber ni khan a ni: chutiang chuan khualzinte in lum theih nan seat tinah acid yellow/green blanket dah a ni. A show note-ah Irish designer hian a collection hmasa ber chu “A rough opulence. A chhunga rannung awmte pholan”. Backstage-ah McGirr chuan Alexander McQueen-a tana a outing hmasa ber a nih avangin, pawn lam mi ang maia a inhriat avangin Lee-a collection hmasa ber ber “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) 90s aṭanga siam, engtikah nge designer thi tawh chu amah ngei pawh pawn lam mi ang maiin a inhria. “Ka duh ber chu a awlsam vek a, mahse a twisted deuh a ni. I neih apiang hmanga thil siam chhuah a ni. Lee hian jacket ang chi classic elements a la a, a twist a, a crush a, eng nge thleng tih a hmu a ni”. Chuvangin, collection-ah hian DIY feeling a awm ngei ang, London thalai te chakna pawh a awm ngei ang. Ni e, McGirr hi thil tichhe turin a lo kal a, chutiang chuan a ti ta a ni!

Seán McGirr chuan a collection chu distorted draped dress in black laminated jersey hmangin a hawng a, “The Birds” atanga clingfilm dress hmingthang tak chu a reference a, model hian a kut chu a rilruah a vuan a. Zanin hian London khawpui character i la hriat loh, mahse inhmu duh tak takte chungchang a ni vek. Tichuan, savun trench leh detective kawr te a awm a, McQueen-a reference dose tha tak a awm bawk - think gowns with animal prints, acid colors, rose accessories and the famed skull motif. Silhouette te chu a tawp thlengin an la a: lu chungah collar sang tak tak nei chunky knits lian tak tak (hello, Martin Margiela!) chu collection-a thil langsar ber pakhat a ni. Couture technique beisei loh tak tak pawh a awm bawk: minidress, chandelier chhe tawh leh red leh orange bicycle reflector embroidery hmanga siam, car chesual hnua thil hmuhchhuah atanga siam ang maia siam a ni. Tin, a hnuhnung ber pathum, car dress, steel atanga siam, Ferrari sen, cobalt blue Aston Martin leh Tesla dum ang chi rawng te. McGirr chuan backstage-ah a pa chu mechanic a nih thu a sawifiah a, mahse chhungkaw member pakhat chawimawina mai a ni lo va, memory lane-a zinkawng a ni zawk: a naupan lai khan in lamah car leh a design chungchang an sawiho fo thin a, hei hi a hmuchhuak ta a ni out a eizawnna atan shape leh form siam a mamawh a ni.

Vawiin tlai lamah Guido Palau-a’n Zara tana a haircare line thar a lawmnaah khan Katy England chhungte nen kawng kan zawh dun a (stylist hi Lee-a chhungte zinga mi a ni ṭhian hnai berte), an vai hian an buai deuh niin an lang. Kan chhehvela mi zawng zawng chuan McGirr debut chungchang an sawi dun a, a beidawng deuh niin an sawi. Ngaihtuahna tam lutuk, mahse khawiah nge vision chu? A danglam thei ang em? Hêng pheikhawkte hi a lian lutuk a, a in fit lo mai mai a nih chuan engtin nge ni ang? Awle, McGirr-a’n sawiselna a chhan dan hi a chiang khawp mai, hlawhchham apianga a sawi thin Lee McQueen thusawi chu a sawi chhuak a: “I’d rather people hated what I do than not give a shit about it”. Tin, chu chu he designer bik hi Lee McQueen-a in atan hian a fit tha hle a ni.

Seán McGirr-a’n Alexander McQueen tana a debut collection, designer ropui tak legacy leh a thlaktu hun kal tawhte sawina a khat a, ngaihvenna thlipui a siam a, a tha leh a chhe zawng zawng a ni. Mahse, chutih lai chuan a bul tanna chauh a ni.Designer ropui tak pheikhawk khat chu thil awlsam a ni lo. A bik takin, sawi tur chu Lee McQueen ropui tak a nih chuan, editor, buyer, zirlai leh fashion ngainatute thlah kal zelte fak thin a ni. Tin, creative director hlui Sarah Burton, Lee-a kut dinglam duh tak, kum 2010-a a thih hnua a legacy enkawltu hnu lawka lo kal hian tak chu a ti awlsam lo. Kum 35 mi, Dublin-a piang Seán McGirr hian thla engemaw zat kalta chauh khan he iconic house hi a zawm a - Jonathan W. Anderson tan a hming vuah label-ah design hotu atan a thawk a, mahse Japanese mass market nena an thawhhonaah pawh a thawk dun bawk mi lian tak Uniqlo. A resume-ah Dries Van Noten-ah stint a nei a, chutiang bawkin. A ngaihnawm hle mai.

Thuziak: LIDIA AGEEVA