Saint Laurent FW24: thil hlui tihchangtlun

Anthony Vaccarello-a hlawhtlinna ber chu Yves Saint Laurent-a legacy a hriatthiam leh a siamrem theihna a ni tih hi rinhlelh rual a ni lo , leh YSL silhouette lian ber berte chu tunlai SL-a rintlak taka inzawmkhawmna a ni. A thleng nghal lo va, kum engemaw zat a la a, mahse tunah chuan season thar apiangin a takeover hi volume leh silhouette lamah pawh, material leh texture lamah pawh a rintlak zawkin a lang.

A hmasain volume hrang hrangte hi han sawi ila. Kum tlemte kalta khan Vaccarello-a’n straight jacket, emphatically wide and stiff shoulders a lantir hmasak ber ṭum khan, Yves Saint Laurent-a’n kum 1980 chhoa a siam aṭanga lak chhuah a ni a, Yves-a legacy-a direct-a a inrawlhna hmasa ber a ni — chutih lai chuan a hmuhnawm hle. Chumi hnuah chuan shoulder lian tak tak chu a lo awm ta hle a, collection tinah literal takin kan hmu ta a ni. Hun engemaw chen chu Vaccarello chuan volume a tihtlem tan a, chu chu a kal dan dik tak a ni a, SL FW24-ah chuan chutiang jacket, kekawr bul lian tak tak nei tlemte chauh an awm. Chutiang a nih lai chuan, fur a tam hle — tun season-a a tlangpui ang bawkin — a voluminous hle. Model zawng zawng deuhthaw hian fur coat lian tak tak, fluffy tak tak an nei a — an kutah emaw, an kekawrteah emaw, mahse a tam zawk chu an kutah — an nei a, haute couture PE1971 collection lar tak aṭanga lo chhuak an ni a, a iconic short green fur coat nen an rawn chhuak a, hei hian sawiseltu lam aṭangin vuakna nasa tak a la a ni chutih lai chuan.

Tun ah chuan, texture te. He collection hian thupui a neih chuan transparency a ni a, chu chu hlawhtling takin exhibition hawn thar Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres nen a inmil hle. Hetah hian thil pawimawh ber chu transparent narrow skirts a ni a, Vaccarello hian a tlangpuiin a feature ber a siam a, transparent bustiers leh, of course, classic YSL transparent blouses with bows te pawh a awm bawk. Mahse heng transparency zawng zawng hi, tuna Vaccarello-a duh ber beige leh sand tam lutuk vang pawh a ni mai thei, chu chu collection-a rawng ber a lo ni ta a, latex BDSM ang deuhin a lang a, Kubrick-a sci-fi ang deuh pawh a ni. Hei hi, a nihna takah chuan, Yves Saint Laurent-a’n a neih ngai loh sexuality chi khat a ni a, a duhthusam zawng zawng nen chuan, a duhthusam tlemte, mahse bourgeois tak tak seductiveness chu a bik takin Helmut Newton-a’n kum 1970 chhoa YSL hmeichhiate thlalak lar tak takah a langsar hle. Mahse hei hi Vaccarello-a’n tunlai SL-a a hman tangkai theihna tura a siamremna chu a ni.

He 1970 chhoa aesthetic niche ang chiah hian savun eng mawi tak tak hmanga siam structured pea jackets, ke hring hring chauha hak te pawh i dah tel thei bawk. Tin prime.

Dik tak chuan, he Les Trente glorieuses-a French mawina leh French chic classic tak lem hi tuna Vaccarello-a’n a channel mek hi a ni. Tin . Tunah chuan Anthony Vaccarello hian hlawhtling takin he lem hi a ta atan a siam ta a, he upgraded leh tunlai tak version-ah hian a rawn nung leh ta a, Yves Saint Laurent chu a iconic ber leh popular culture images-in a pawm ber berteah a tinung leh ta a ni. Awle, hei hi French-hoin an sawi angin, une très belle collection, très féminine a ni a, chu chu thinlung takin lawmpui theih a ni — YSL-in hun kal tawh atanga tunlai thlenga a inthlak danglamna chu a enkawl tha hle.

Thuziak: Elena Stafyeva