New Beginnings: Tod’s Autumn-Winter 2024

For his debut autumn-winter 2024 collection for Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini explored the notion of Italian craftsmanship and quiet luxury.

The show took place in the disused Darsena Tram shed in Via Messina. Whoever comes to Milan, knows that taking a tram is a part of Milanese lifestyle, and Matteo Tamburini could not find a better place for his debut at Tod’s.

“The depot of the historic Darsena trams, a symbol of the energy and movement that animate the city. The duality between urban life and leisure, formal and informal, tradition and innovation permeates the collection, characterised by essential and sophisticated pieces”, Tamburini explained in the show notes. Named “In Motion”, the collection was all about movement, and the pieces that would accompany you during the day even if your agenda is packed with various activities. City dwellers don’t always have time to change, so they are looking for outfits in tune with all the opportunities that Milan has to offer. There were many silhouettes that could work well at the office - think sharp suits, relaxed-fit wool trousers and striped shirts. Styling trick, you need to wear them in doubles to stay chic next autumn, same goes for cashmere cardigans, crafted to be layered upon each other. By the way, these pieces could be a perfect fit for aperitivo, a beloved Italian tradition, too.

Tod’s heritage is rooted in leather craftsmanship, so its new creative director went on to explore the unique savoir-faire, presenting show-stopping trenches in dark chocolate leather, gunner coat in blue lambskin (modeled impeccably by Irina Shayk), tailored jackets and dresses in black and an ensemble in Fire-Brigade red. He also played with some leather trimming on double-faced wool coats that looked endlessly elegant. As did belts with grilled oval buckets and larger-than-life oversized and just-enough-for-the-day medium-sized bags in soft leathers. Well, according to Matteo Tamburini, quiet luxury is definitely not going out of fashion next season.

“Tod’s has been in my DNA ever since I grew up seeing my father and mother wearing Tod’s loafers for special occasions”, Tamburini mused backstage. Lucky coincidence: he was born in Umbrino in Le Marche district, the same shoe region where Tod’s comes from. For his debut collection, the designer reinterpreted iconic models like Gommino and the loafer, adding a subtle metal band. The Yorky version of Gommino driving shoe also got a makeover: the designer enriched it with thin leather fringes. Another footwear highlight of the collection: motorcycle-inspired high boots with upper side buckles. Chic and feminine, and probably very comfortable. 

Text: LIDIA AGEEVA