Uwera Laurent FW24: kuzamura umurage

Ntawashidikanya ko ibyagezweho muri Anthony Vaccarello ari ubushobozi bwe bwo kumenya no guhuza umurage wa Yves Saint Laurent , hamwe no kwemeza guhuza silhouettes nyamukuru ya YSL muri SL igezweho. Ntabwo byahise bihita bimutwara imyaka itari mike, ariko ubu, hamwe na buri gihembwe gishya, gufata kwe birasa nkaho byemeza haba mubijwi na silhouettes, ndetse no mubikoresho hamwe nimiterere.

Ubwa mbere, reka tuvuge kubyerekeye amajwi. Iyo mu myaka mike ishize, Vaccarello yabanje kwerekana amakoti agororotse afite ubugari bwagutse kandi butugu, bikomoka ku Yves Saint Laurent yakoze mu ntangiriro ya za 1980, bwari bwo bwa mbere yitabiriye mu buryo butaziguye umurage wa Yves - kandi birashimishije cyane kuri ibyo. Kuva icyo gihe, ibitugu binini bimaze kuba rusange kuburyo tubibona byukuri muri buri cyegeranyo. Igihe kimwe, Vaccarello yatangiye kugabanya amajwi, aribwo buryo bwiza, kandi muri SL FW24 hari amakoti make nkaya afite ibitugu binini. Ibyo byavuzwe, hari ubwoya bwinshi - nkuko bisanzwe muri iki gihembwe - kandi byari byinshi. Hafi ya buri moderi yari ifite amakoti manini yuzuye ubwoya - mu ntoki cyangwa ku bitugu, ariko akenshi mu ntoki - kandi baturutse mu cyegeranyo kizwi cyane cya haute couture PE1971 hamwe n'ikote ryayo rigufi ry'icyatsi kibisi, byafashe gukubita bikomeye abanegura. icyo gihe.

Noneho, imiterere. Niba iki cyegeranyo cyari gifite insanganyamatsiko, byari mucyo, byahuriranye cyane n’imurikagurisha rishya ryafunguwe Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Ikintu cyingenzi hano cyari amajipo magufi abonerana, Vaccarello muri rusange yakoze ibintu nyamukuru, kandi hariho na busti zibonerana kandi, byanze bikunze, blusike YSL isanzwe ifite umuheto. Ariko uku gukorera mu mucyo, wenda kubera ubwinshi bwa becc n'umusenyi wa Vaccarello ukunda cyane, byahindutse amabara nyamukuru y'icyegeranyo, byasaga nkaho bitinze latex BDSM, na gato nka sci-fi ya Kubrick. Birumvikana ko ubu ari ubwoko bwimibonano mpuzabitsina Yves Saint Laurent atigeze agira, hamwe n'icyifuzo cye cyose cyo kureshya gato, ariko burugumesitiri burugumesitiri rwagaragaye cyane cyane mumafoto azwi cyane ya Helmut Newton y’amafoto y’abagore ba YSL yo mu myaka ya za 70. Ariko ubu ni bwo buryo bwo guhindura Vaccarello ituma SL igira akamaro muri iki gihe. Kandi igitambaro cyo mu mutwe cyahambiriye ku mutwe w'icyitegererezo, n'amatwi manini munsi yacyo - kimwe na Loulou de La Falaise mu myaka ya za 70, yafotowe ku mafoto na Yves muri club imwe nijoro, ubwo bombi, inyenyeri ebyiri za Paris bohemian Paris, bari iwe primaire. Kandi minstrel nyamukuru yubwiza bwakera bwa Paris - yaba inshuti ze Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, urabyita - ni Yves Saint Laurent ubwe, wizihizaga divayi, femmes fatale, nibindi bimenyetso byerekana uburinganire bwa kera bwa Paris. . Uyu munsi, Anthony Vaccarello yakoze iyi shusho neza, ayigarura mubuzima muri iyi verisiyo yazamuye kandi igezweho, asubizamo Yves Saint Laurent mu gishushanyo cye cyiza kandi cyemewe cyane n'amashusho y'umuco uzwi. Nibyiza, ibi, nkuko Abafaransa babivuga, une très belle collection, très féminine, kubwibyo ashobora gushimirwa byimazeyo - yayoboye inzibacyuho YSL kuva kera kugeza kurubu.

Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva