Ibaruwa Yumye: HD Fashion yibuka umwe mubashushanyaga cyane ibisekuruza

Namakuru yaje atunguranye. Ku gicamunsi cyo kuri uyu wa kabiri, Dries Van Noten yatangaje ko nyuma yimyaka 28 akora ubucuruzi azava ku kirango cye. Ubutaha azerekana imyenda y'abagabo muri kamena izaba iya nyuma. Nubwo bikomeje gupfunyika uzuzuza inkweto, icyo dusanzwe tuzi nuko ari iherezo ryibihe byiza cyane. Kandi, yego, Kuma bizabura.

“Mu ntangiriro ya za 80, nk'umusore ukomoka muri Antwerp, inzozi zanjye kwari ukugira ijwi mu myambarire. Binyuze mu rugendo rwanzanye i Londres, Paris nahandi, kandi mfashijwe nabantu batabarika bashyigikiwe, izo nzozi zabaye impamo. Noneho, ndashaka guhindura ibitekerezo byanjye kubintu byose ntigeze mbona umwanya. Ndababaye, ariko icyarimwe ndishimye, kugirango nkumenyeshe ko nzava ku butegetsi mu mpera za Kamena. Nateguye uyu mwanya mu gihe gito, kandi ndumva igihe kigeze cyo kuva mu gisekuru gishya cy'impano zo kuzana icyerekezo cyabo ku kirango ”, nk'uko Dries Van Noten mu ibaruwa yandikiye abanditsi yabisobanuye. Ntabwo ari amagambo gusa, ariko nibindi byinshi byanditse kumuryango kumushyigikiye kuva kumunsi wambere. Hamwe nibisobanuro bijyanye nubusitani, byanze bikunze, imyidagaduro akunda. Kuberako Dries atigeze aba umushushanya gusa, yamye ari inzozi, umurimyi uzi guhinga indabyo nziza cyane no kuzifata neza.

Rwiyemezamirimo wimyambarire mu gisekuru cya gatatu, papa we yari umudozi kandi ni ababyeyi bakoze butike yimyambarire, Dries yarangije muri Royal Academy of Fine Arts maze atangira umwuga we wambaye imyenda yabagabo ariko mubisanzwe mubyumba bye byambere byerekanwe na Antwerp Six i Londres yabaye umuhanga mubudozi bwabagabo nabagore, avanga ibyapa namabara muri byinshi bitangaje byo guhuza. Ibitaramo bye byahoraga (kandi biragoye kuvuga "bari" aho kuvuga "bari") byaranze icyumweru cyimyambarire ya Paris, aho amaze imyaka irenga 30 yerekana inshuro enye mumwaka. Nibisobanuro byinshi byimyambarire yibuka. Buri gihe amarangamutima, gutinyuka, ku ngingo, hamwe n'amajwi yerekana amajwi, ariko ntabwo arambirana. Buri mwanditsi agira ibihe bibiri akunda Kuma. Imeza nini y'ibirori catwalk, aho abanyamideli bagendaga bagenda kumyenda yera kumeza yo kurya kugirango bizihize imyaka 50 amaze. Igitaramo kuri stage ya Opera Garnier. Ubufatanye ninshuti ye na mugenzi we bashushanya Christian Lacroix cyangwa umugani w'imbere Verner Panton. Umuhengeri hejuru y'igaraje mu nkengero za Paris. Uwo hamwe nabakobwa, bararyamye basinzira kuri tapi yicyatsi kibisi. Cyangwa uwo hamwe nabahungu bafite amaradiyo yacurangaga amajwi yerekana uko bazengurukaga École des Beaux-Arts.

Dries yahoraga yita kubantu. Nubwo ari kure, abanyabukorikori be mu Buhinde kuri we ni ingenzi nk'amakipe ye muri Antwerp na Paris. Mw'isi aho inkuru y'ibihangange Loro Piana yamennye interineti kubera ikibazo cy’imyitwarire idakwiye ku bahinzi bo muri Peru, bakora nta mushahara wo kogoshesha ubwoya bwa Vicuña ubwoya bwa swateri nyuma bugurishwa ku ma euro ibihumbi, urugero rwa Van Noten ntirurenze agaciro. Ni ukurokora ubuzima.

yabaye umugani bonyine, hamwe nabafana berekeje muri Antwerp kugirango bakure amaboko kubintu byiza byabonetse kubishushanya. Nukuri ko mubyerekanwa bye, ushobora guhora ubona kunegura inganda nini, abaguzi hamwe nabakora inganda, bambaye neza mumyenda ye. Igikorwa cyurukundo nyarwo, runini kuruta kwemeza inganda zose.

Inyandiko: Lidia Ageeva