Chanel Haute Couture SS2024. Kubaka Ballet Russes

Chanel ifite ihame ridasanzwe umuntu ashobora kurota gusa. Ikintu cyose twita ADN n'umurage byegeranijwe, bishyirwa ku rutonde, bisanduku, byanditseho, kandi bishyirwa muri piramide nziza, kugeza ishyari rya buri wese: kuva ishusho nziza ya Mademoiselle kugeza kuri camelia ya nyuma yera, lente yumukara, na buto ya zahabu. Icyegeranyo cya SS2024 couture cyitwa Button cyeguriwe ibi bisobanuro. Ariko nubwo mini-firime itazwi yakoreshwaga na pgLang, yanditswe kandi iyobowe na Dave Free kandi yatsinzwe na Kendrick Lamar kimwe na défilé yashyizwemo na buto nini yimanitse munsi yinzu hejuru yakozwe na Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free, na Mike Carson, ntakintu na kimwe kijyanye na buto mu cyegeranyo ubwacyo. Igitekerezo nyacyo ni Ballets Russes kandi, nkuko umuyobozi wubuhanzi Virginie Viard abitubwira, iki cyegeranyo cyahariwe isabukuru yimyaka ijana itangiye ubufatanye bwa Chanel na Diaghilev.

Kandi kuva twahawe urufunguzo, ntitwabura kugerageza no gukina nayo. Uru rufunguzo rwugurura byoroshye umuryango wingenzi kuri iki cyegeranyo cyiza cyane, aho imyenda ya ballet igaragara neza - muburyo bwimigozi ningwe munsi yimyenda yose. Dore imyenda isa na plumage yera-yijimye-na zahabu - ninde? Niyihe mico ya Diaghilev yaba ikwiriye? L'Oiseau de feu? - Yego, birashoboka ko L'oiseau de feu, ariko muri verisiyo yoroheje ya Virginie Viard, kandi ntabwo iri muri Lizon Bakst. Kandi muburyo bwa nyuma bwumugeni wishimye kandi wiki gihe - Virginie Viard ahora atsindira abo - muri mini yera yambaye amaboko ya tulle yuzuye na gari ya moshi ndende inyuma, Watteau & Rococo igaragara gitunguranye, nkuko bigaragara muburyo bwo gufungura bwatanzwe na Margaret Qualley tubona umukara wera wera wa Pierrot. Cyangwa nikintu kiva muri Ballet Russes na none? Pétrouchka na Alexandre Benois, kurugero? Uyu mukino ushimishije urashobora gukomeza, cyane cyane ko Virginie Viard ubwe yibuka Bakst na palette ye, akanashimangira isano iri hagati yamateka hagati ya Chanel na ballet, atwibutsa ko Chanel ishyigikiye Ballet ya Opera ya Paris kugeza na nubu. Ariko muri rusange, imiterere ya ballet ntabwo ishimangirwa hano muburyo ubwo aribwo bwose - iyi ni isoko ryiza, ryiza kandi, icyingenzi, icyegeranyo cyoroshye cyoroshye gifite ibintu byinshi bitangaje, ariko ntakinamico.

Birumvikana ko iyi myenda yari ibirori bya métiers d'art ko nta cyegeranyo cya Chanel gishobora kureka - tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace, udushushanyo twerekana draperi, pome ya mousseline, imiheto n'indabyo, imifuka ya tulle ya illusion, ibikurikira. Ntanumwe murimwe watumye ibi bisa nkibinini, bibaha umwuka mubi aho. Ariko, dusubiye aho baleti yatangiriye, ishusho yambere yaje mu bwenge, nkimara kubona isura ya mbere cyane ifite amajipo yimbere hamwe nudusimbuka, ntabwo Diaghilev cyangwa Bakst, ahubwo yari Margiela hamwe nigifuniko cye cyo kumurinda mucyo ko we nkunda gushira hejuru yuburyo butandukanye. Bigaragara ko Virginie Viard yahisemo gukomeza imyitozo yo kubaka yatangiriye mu cyegeranyo cya prêt-à-porter SS24 hamwe n’imyenda itandukanye yaciwe kandi idoda hamwe. Ariko muri verisiyo ya haute couture, ikorwa neza kandi neza, ibyo byatumye iki cyegeranyo kirushaho kuba cyiza.

Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva