Dior Haute Couture SS2024: Haute couture hagati ya aura niyororoka

y'abamubanjirije no kubasimbuza ibihangano bya none na feminism. Kandi mugihe agumye murwego rwubwiza busanzwe mubyo yakusanyije, ategura umwuka wumugore wose muburyo bwo kwerekana, ahamagarira abahanzi babagore kubikora. Kuri iyi nshuro yari igizwe n'imyenda 23 ifite ubunini, buri imwe muri metero 5 z'uburebure, ikaba yarakozwe na Isabella Ducru, umuhanzi w’umutaliyani w’imyaka 92 ukorana n’imyenda ikozwe mu buhanga gakondo bwo kuboha. Yiswe Big Aura.

Ijambo "aura" rihita ritwerekeza kuri Walter Benjamin hamwe nigitekerezo cye cyiza, aho "aura" cyari igitekerezo cyingenzi cyagize ingaruka kuri filozofiya yubuhanzi yose ikurikira Imyaka 100. Aura nicyo kintu cyumwuka kizengurutse umurimo wubuhanzi kandi kivuka mu masangano yibiranga bitandukanye: ubunyangamugayo, amateka yarwo, aho byerekanwe - kandi amaherezo bifitanye isano nuwo muhango wera ibihangano ibyo aribyo byose bishobora gushinga imizi. Nibyo abareba bumva iyo basanze bakonje imbere yishusho cyangwa itsinda ryabakinnyi. Iyi aura yatangiye gusenyuka mugihe cyo kubyara ibihangano byubukorikori, igihe cyo gufotora na sinema, byageze ku ntera ndende mu myaka ya za 1930, ubwo Benyamini yandikaga inyandiko ye izwi cyane yise Igikorwa cyubuhanzi mugihe cyimyororokere. Maria Grazia Chiuri akoresha mu buryo butaziguye iki gitekerezo kuri haute couture, ni imyenda idasanzwe ikozwe kumubiri wihariye wumuntu runaka kandi ikorwa neza cyane. Nkuko Maison Dior abivuga mu itumanaho ryayo, hari urugero rumeze nka aura rwa haute couture: uburambe bukomeye butatekereza gusa, ariko kandi bukora.

Défilé yatangiranye nijwi ryijwi ryumugore risubiramo amagambo "weft and warp" inshuro nyinshi. Moderi yambaye ipamba yose isa ifite ibara rya kera ryamakoti yo mu mwobo kandi yerekana imiterere yabyo yasohotse mumajwi yijwi. Mugihe moderi nyinshi zasohotse, imiterere yumwobo yagendaga ishonga buhoro buhoro mubudozi ndetse nijipo ndende kugirango bahinduke imyenda ya Dior New Look ikozwe mubudodo bwamazi nayo izwi nka moiré. Muri ubu buryo, ipamba, ntabwo ari imyenda gakondo ya couture, yahujwe na moiré, umwe mubitambara byiza kandi bihenze. Ipamba na moiré byabaye ubudodo bwikusanyamakuru rya Dior haute couture PE24, bituma habaho uburyo bwo gushyigikira Chiuri ubwe avuga ko ari "ikiganiro hagati yimyenda ibiri bigaragara ko ivuguruzanya." Kandi inkingi yicyo cyegeranyo ni imyenda ya La Cigale moiré yo muri AH1952-53 Dior archive archive ya Harper's Bazaar yasobanuye mu nomero yayo yo muri Nzeri 1952 ikozwe muri "gray moiré, iremereye ku buryo isa n'icyuma gikomeye."

Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva

Amashusho: Dior \ © Adrien Dirand, © Laura Sciacovelli