Fendi Couture SS24: Gutunganya abanyabukorikori bihishe inyuma ya minimalism na futurism

igitekerezo cya couture: "Mubikusanyirizo, hariho ubumuntu kumutima wigihe kizaza; hariho umubiri, silhouette muri silhouette, umuntu nibikorwa byamaboko ya couture. Icyegeranyo kijyanye nimiterere n'imitako, aho byombi ube indakoreka. Nashakaga icyarimwe igitekerezo cyuzuye n'amarangamutima. ” Biragoye kwibutsa futurism idasanzwe mubikorwa bya Karl Lagerfeld, icyiza kiza mubitekerezo ni ubwiza, imiterere yimyambarire yibyegeranyo bye bya Fendi, Kim Jones yacukuye cyane bishoboka. Ariko niba Bwana Jones ari kuvuga kuri futurism, ikibazo niki, ni ubuhe bwoko bwa futurism ashaka kuvuga - futurism ya Stanley Kubrick yo muri 2001: Umwanya Odyssey cyangwa futurism ya Barbarella ya Roger Vadim Urebye imyenda igororotse yera ya gazar yakozwe neza yibanda kuri geometrie, dukunda gutekereza ko iyi ari 2001: Umwanya wa Odyssey nyuma ya byose Ariko urebye amababa asa, impande zose zigaragara mubindi bisa nkibutsa bumwe muburyo bushya bwa pelt, kimwe na feza ishushanyijeho. y'ijipo yasaga n'umunzani w'amafi, amaboko atandukanye abonerana ashyizwe hejuru y'inkokora, hamwe na lente ya feza abigiranye amayeri ya Shibari yuzuye amayeri, ntabwo byashobokaga kudatekereza Barbarella.

> Shibari hejuru, - kandi ntabwo ari minimalism gusa ahubwo ni kimwe mubihe bya zahabu yo muntangiriro ya 90, iya Miucca Prada cyangwa Calvin Klein. Kim Jones ntagumya kugabanuka kugeza ku ndunduro kandi mugihe runaka, organza iguruka igaragara, ko byanze bikunze couture cliche, ariko muguhindura kwe bisa nkubwiza busanzwe. Nubwo bimeze bityo, icyegeranyo cyingenzi cya silhouette, cyiswe Bwana Jones Scatola, bisobanura agasanduku, gasa neza, keza, kandi kigezweho. Iyi silhouette ibona ubufasha bwinshi buturutse kuri silik gazar, umwenda wa Balenciaga ukunda hamwe na couture yukuri.

Imiterere n'imitako muri iki cyegeranyo byahujwe rwose kandi bishyigikirana. Amajipo, ashushanyijeho nubudodo hamwe nuruhererekane rusa nububwa bwinyoni zo muri paradizo, byaringaniza imbaraga nuburemere bwamakoti ya cashmere. Inkweto za feza zipfukishijwe amahwa magufi kandi akomeye hamwe nikirahure cya futuristic (tumaze kubigaragaza) byahinduye intwaro zacuzwe mu ijosi rirerire zimeze nk'ingona ingona ifite imiterere itagira inenge kandi ifite ubuziranenge. Muri rusange, Kim Jones yirinze amajwi yinyongera - ibintu byose, uhereye kumyenda yububoshyi ya vicuña nziza cyane kugeza kumyenda y'ingona nziza cyane, bikwiranye na gants, byerekana gukata no gutunganya neza umurimo w'abadozi.

Fendi Couture SS24 ntabwo yari ifite ubwoya Karl Lagerfeld yakundaga gukoresha couture - yasimbujwe impande na tassel bigana pelt. Muri rusange, urwego rudasanzwe rwubukorikori bwabanyabukorikori bose ba Fendi - kuva ku badozi kugeza ku badozi ndetse no ku bakozi b’uruhu kugeza ku bakora imyenda - rwashyizwe muri ubwo buryo bworoshye bwa silhouette, buhisha ibintu bitagira inenge, byuzuye bya couture. Ibi, kandi ntabwo ari ubwiza bwimyambarire, nuburyo nyabwo bwa couture, bwatanzwe na Kim Jones nubwitonzi nkubwo, nubumuntu bwukuri. Noneho, amaze gukura muburyo bwinshi bw'ibyegeranyo bye bya mbere, yageze mu kibaya runaka mu bwiza bwe, nyuma, twizere ko hazakurikiraho.

Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva