Kim Jones, umuyobozi wubuhanzi bwa couture n imyenda yabategarugori, agenda buhoro ariko byanze bikunze abona inzira yimyenda yabagore. Guhera ku cyegeranyo giheruka, yongeyeho deconstruction ku ikabutura nto y’amabara y'ingamiya no kwambara imyenda ya silike, yahinduye palette yose - kandi izi mpinduka zahinduye uburyo bwo gukusanya abagore be, yubaka itsinda ryose kandi rifite akamaro. p>
Uyu murimo wakomeje kandi utera imbere muri Fendi FW24. Kim Jones avuga kuri kimwe mu byamuteye inkunga kuri iki cyegeranyo: “Narebaga 1984 mu bubiko bwa Fendi. Igishushanyo cyanyibukije London muri kiriya gihe: Blitz Kids, New Romantics, kwemeza imyenda y'akazi, uburyo bwa cyubahiro, uburyo bw'Abayapani ... ”Ibyo yavuze byose biragaragara byoroshye muri Fendi FW24: amakoti yambaye ubusa, umukandara kandi wibutsa ubushyuhe bwijimye kimonos; Amakoti ya Victorian yunamye mu rukenyerero, afite umukufi muremure ufunze hamwe n'ibitugu bigari bikozwe mu bwoya bwa gabardine, hamwe n'ipantaro igororotse, ijipo y'umurongo ikozwe mu mpu zikoze neza; ibishishwa bya turtleneck byiziritse ku bitugu; umwenda wuzuye muburyo bwije.
Irindi soko ryiyi inspiration rihinduka ibinyuranye rwose. Yakomeje agira ati: “Byari igihe imico n'imiterere y'Abongereza byahindutse isi kandi bigatwara isi yose. Nyamara na none hamwe nubwiza bwabongereza muburyo bworoshye no kudaha agaciro ibyo undi wese atekereza, ikintu gihuza nuburyo bwAbaroma. Fendi afite amateka yibikorwa. Nuburyo umuryango wa Fendi wambara, mubyukuri nukubireba. Ndibuka igihe nahura bwa mbere na Siliviya Venturini Fendi, yari yambaye ikositimu nziza cyane - hafi ya Safari. Ibyo byahinduye muburyo bwanjye bwo kubona icyo Fendi aricyo: nuburyo umugore yambara afite ikintu gikomeye cyo gukora. Kandi arashobora kwinezeza mu gihe abikora. ”Bwana Jones akomeza. Kandi ibi bisa nkibishimishije kandi bitagaragara: ni gute Roma na Londres bihuza muri ubu buryo bwa Kim Jones bugezweho? Ikigaragara ni uko Roma yibuka iyo ubonye organza itemba isa nigicapo cyerekana imitwe ya marimari hamwe nishusho ya Madonnas (imwe, bisa nkaho ari Pieta uzwi cyane ya Michelangelo wo muri katedrali ya San Pietro), umuzenguruko w’amasaro ku zindi shusho; ibinure byoroheje hamwe no kwigana ibice, amashati yera yera ya segnora y'Abaroma, iminyururu minini, hamwe n'uruhu rutagira inenge rwo mu Butaliyani rukoreshwa mu ikoti n'amakoti. Niki gihuza ibi bice byombi murwego ruhuza kandi rwuzuzanya rwumwuga wa Jones i Fendi? Mbere ya byose, amabara: iki gihe yashyize hamwe urutonde rwuzuye rwijimye rwijimye, khaki, icyatsi kibisi cyijimye, burgundy, umukara wijimye, beterave, na taupe. Kandi ibyo byose biradoda kandi bihujwe nigishashi cyumuhondo cyiza cya Fendi.
Igisubizo cyari icyegeranyo kitoroshye, ariko rwose ni cyiza kandi gihanitse, aho ibyo byose byubatswe kandi bigoye gushushanya bitakigaragara guhatirwa rero, ariko hitamo kimwe gishimishije kandi gifite ubushobozi bugaragara bushobora gutezwa imbere no koherezwa mubyerekezo bitandukanye. Birasa nkaho bidatinze ubu burebure buzahanagurwa: Kim Jones nkuwashushanyaga imyenda yabagore azashobora guhinduka nkimbaraga, guhanga, no kwidegembya nkuko ameze nkuwashushanyaga imyenda yabagabo.
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Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva