Gucci FW24: intsinzi ya cliches

Icyegeranyo cya FW24 cyabaye icya gatatu muri rusange nicyakabiri cyiteguye kwambara cyateguwe na Sabato De Sarno, bityo rero dufite ibihagije byo kwemeza niba a Gucci nshya yaje mubyayo. Igisubizo ni, oya, ntabwo - kandi ibi bimaze kugaragara rwose. Biragaragara kandi rwose ko niba hari ikintu gikwiye kuganirwaho kijyanye nicyegeranyo gishya, nimpamvu zubu bushishozi bwo guhanga.

Reka tubitege amaso - ntakintu kibi cyane cyane mubyo De Sarno akora. Icyegeranyo cyakozwe muburyo bwumwuga ndetse gifite na spunk - byaba byiza kubirango bimwe byubucuruzi gusa bititwaza ko bihimbye imyambarire. Iyaba De Sarno yinjiye muri Gucci nyuma ya Frida Giannini, ibyo byose byari kuba byiza, ariko asimbuye Alessandro Michele wayoboye impinduramatwara yimyambarire, ashyiraho imyambarire yiki gihe mubyiciro bimaze kumenyekana ubu, maze Gucci ahinduka ibendera ryiyi mpinduramatwara. Gutyo, De Sarno yaje i Gucci mugihe kinini mumateka yarwo - yego, ntabwo ari hejuru cyane, ariko aracyari mumwanya ukomeye, kandi nicyo kibazo cyatsinzwe.

Twabonye iki? inzira yo guhaguruka iki gihe? Micro-overs na micro-short, jackettes pea jackettes, amakoti, cyangwa karigisi, yambarwa nta shitingi - ibi byose haba hamwe na bote ndende cyangwa hamwe na platifomu nini (ibyo de Sarno, uko bigaragara, yahisemo gukora agace ke k'umukono). Micro ikintu gifite amakote maremare aremereye hamwe nu mwobo, imyenda iranyerera, hamwe cyangwa idafite umurongo, hamwe cyangwa udafite igice, ariko biracyafite inkweto ndende. Imyenda n'imyenda byambitswe ikintu kimeze nk'igiti cyiza cya Noheri cyangwa amababi meza - kandi iyi tinsel yamanitse, bisa nkaho ari agashya konyine k'umuyobozi mushya w'ubuhanzi. Ibindi byose biri muri iki cyegeranyo byunvikana rwose nibyabanjirije - kandi bifite akamaro cyane nabandi benshi byakozwe nabandi bantu.

Noneho na none, twabonye iyi tinsel nziza ya Noheri inshuro nyinshi tumaze gukusanya Dries van Noten - no ku makoti manini, maremare. Twabonye izi nkweto ndende, ndetse zifite ipantaro / ikabutura nto na karigisi mu cyegeranyo cyamamare cya Prada FW09, kandi iyi myenda yo kunyerera ifite imipira itandukanye yaturutse mu byegeranyo bya Phoebe Filo kuri Celine SS2016. Kandi ibyo byari kuba byiza iyo Sabato de Sarno ashyira aya magambo yose imbere yigitekerezo cye bwite, akayitunganya binyuze mubyerekezo bye bwite, akabishyira mubyiza bye. Ariko niyo yaba afite ubuhanga runaka, umwuga we ushingiyeho bigaragara, nta cyerekezo afite ndetse nta gitekerezo cya Gucci nk'ikimenyetso cyerekana imideli.

Noneho, dufite iki hano? Hano hari urutonde rwimyambarire yimyambarire, imbere ushobora gusangamo inzira zose zigezweho, ziteranijwe kandi zitunganijwe neza. Hariho isura nziza cyane isa nkigerageza gukuraho Michele no kubyutsa Ford. Hano hari ibara ryashizweho kandi ryiza cyane palette yiganjemo umutuku wuzuye, icyatsi, terracotta, hamwe nibihumyo. Hamwe na hamwe, hari inkomoko yimbitse ariko yashyizwe hamwe hamwe nicyegeranyo cyubucuruzi, aho Gucci nta gushidikanya ko atanga ibyiringiro byubucuruzi - twavuga ko byemewe. Ariko, ntakintu kiri muri iki cyegeranyo gisobanura imyambarire, kiduha icyerekezo ubwacu muri iyi si ya none, gifata ibitekerezo byacu, kandi bigatuma imitima yacu isimbuka. Noneho na none, birashoboka ko icyifuzo cya Gucci kitagera kure-cyangwa byibuze ntabwo muri iki gihe. Ahari gushimisha uburyo hejuru yibintu bizahinduka ukuri gushya - ariko biramutse bibaye, twizere ko bitazatinda.

Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva