Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture icyegeranyo 2024

Ubwiza bwa ballet-core Chanel Couture Icyegeranyo-icyi 2024 icyegeranyo, ibiganiro bigarura ubuyanja nibizaza muri Schiaparelli Haute Couture Impeshyi-icyi 2024 cyerekanwe, gishimishije kandi gishya Jean Paul Gaultier cyanditswe na Simone Rocha Couture Spring 2024 cyaduhaye ubushishozi kubyo aribyo inganda zigezweho zigomba gutanga. Hamwe no gusobanukirwa gushya kwateye abashushanya n'abayobozi bashinzwe guhanga amazu yimyambarire, nubwo bitangaje, twese twategereje ko icyumweru cya Couture gisozwa kugirango twishire mu isi itangaje ya Maison Margiela.

Hamwe numwaka wibikorwa byimana bya John Galliano kuri Maison Margiela nkumuyobozi wihanga kuva 2014, icyerekezo cye cyamateka yikimenyetso cyimbitse, kandi ibitaramo nibice bigenda neza kurushaho kandi bikagira ibisobanuro byinshi hamwe na ovations kubatumirwa. Ikinamico, ibitaramo, amarangamutima nibyo Galliano yahoraga akunda kandi ahumeka kandi ibi birasobanura neza impamvu twabonye igitaramo gikomeye muri iki gitaramo.

> Nta sura numwe wari kuri moderi utameze nkibipupe bya vintage seluloide itigeze igerageza no kuba impamo, kuko ubunyangamugayo bwerekanwe nubuhanzi bwiki gitaramo n’umushyitsi wabwo: Kylie Jenner wambaye imvi zikurikiranye. iringaniza hagati yishusho yikintu nishusho y amafi. Kurangiza kureba no kuyiha elegance nishyaka, Kylie yongeyeho uturindantoki tubonerana; Christian Louboutin yambaye ikositimu yubwenge yagenzuwe, afatanya nigitambara cyo kwinezeza yiziritse mwijosi yitonze, yizingiye mu ikote ryirabura rihanitse. Ubwumvikane nigitekerezo cyose cyerekanwa na Galliano cyujujwe nabashyitsi ubwabo, babaye bamwe mubatibagirwa n'imikorere idasanzwe. Kuva kumurika no guhinduka kwa Kim Kardashian kugeza mubwimbitse bwubwiza bwa Ella Richards: abashyitsi bose berekana igitaramo kidasubirwaho kandi cyimpinduramatwara, cyuzuyemo ingengabitekerezo yimbitse ya Galliano, bari bambaye Maison Margiela, nikindi kintu cyerekana ingaruka za Inzu yimyambarire ku isi yimyambarire, umuco nubuhanzi.

Munsi yumucyo wukwezi kwuzuye namatara yijimye ya Paris nijoro, byari bigoye gutandukanya isura yicyitegererezo nicyakera ibipupe: Isura yabanyamideli yasaga nkaho itwikiriwe n’ibishashara: umuhanzi udasanzwe wo kwisiga Pat McGrath yakoze ku bwiza butavugwa bwa makiyeri. Umukunzi umwe watwikiriye umurambo wa Doja muri kristu ya Swarovski kugirango yerekane couture ya Schiaparelli. Ingaruka ya farashi, yibutsa silhouette yudukinisho twa selile ya kera, Pat McGrath yaremye abifashijwemo na mask, yashoboraga kuvanwaho hifashishijwe urumuri rworoshye. Igice cyose cyo mumaso cyasaga nkaho gisakuza ngo ni igice cyisura yikipupe ishaje ya farashi Galliano na Pat ni abahanga. Icyitegererezo cya Galliano nicyo gisobanuro cyaba Parisiya 1910-1930, ibirahure bimenetse kumeza, imyenda ya tulle yambitswe, amatara yijimye, umusatsi utekereza, umujyi wijoro wo mwishyamba, amatara yijimye- ubuzima bwa Paris bwa 1910-1930 hamwe nubwenge bwa Galliano bushobora gusomwa mubintu byose kuri igitaramo cya Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024. gutinyuka. Yasanze gukomera nubunyamanswa muburyo bworoshye bwimikorere. Uburemere bwatanzwe mu mabara n'ibimenyetso bya Maison Margiela, bikubiye mu miterere, byongeye kutwizeza ubuhanga n'ubudasanzwe bwa John Galliano. Mu bindi, Galliano yahumekewe n'ibikorwa by'umufotozi w'Abafaransa-Hongiriya, umunyabugeni n'umwanditsi Jules Halas, uzwi ku izina rya Brassai. Mu 1932, yasohoye alubumu documentaire "Ijoro rya Paris", imuzanira gukundwa. Ahindukirira ubuzima bwabantu bari "munsi yimibereho", yerekanaga ikirere cy’utubari n’akabari ka Paris, umuhanda wijimye wijimye, uryamye munsi yikiraro, itara ryamatara yo kumuhanda, abagore bafite imyitwarire yoroshye bari bakonje kugirango bave mu tubari mu mujyi wa nijoro.

Ntibishoboka kutabona ko iki cyegeranyo aricyo gisobanuro gikomeye cyicyegeranyo cya 2000. Silhouettes, ingufu, ibikoresho na filozofiya birabonana nkaho biri mu ndorerwamo. Mu kwerekana inzira dushobora kandi kubona ibice bishya Galliano yibwiraga ko ari ngombwa kutwereka: ubufatanye butunguranye bwa Maison Margiela na Christian Louboutin. Yego, abo bari tab- louboutins. < Niwe wenyine ufite umwanya wo kuba umuyobozi w’irema mu nzu ya Maison Margiela igihe kirekire, kubera ko asobanukiwe kandi mu buryo bwihishe gusobanukirwa na filozofiya y’ikirango kandi afite icyerekezo gishimishije cy’uburanga bwa Martin Margiela.

Iki cyegeranyo cyiza kimaze gusiga ikimenyetso cyisi yimyambarire igezweho izagumana na we ubuziraherezo.

Inyandiko: Maksym Tymofeiev

Amashusho: Maison Margiela