Paolo Roversi muri Galliera musée de la mode de la ville de Paris

icya mbere i Paris, umujyi umwuga we wo gufotora imideli watangiye mu 1973. Imurikagurisha ryafunguwe mu nzu ndangamurage y’imyambarire ya Paris Palais Galliera. Abateguye bateranije ibikorwa 140 byo gufotora, harimo bimwe bitigeze biboneka na rubanda mbere, bongeraho ibintu nkibinyamakuru, ibitabo byo kureba, ubutumire hamwe n'amashusho ya Roversi, hamwe na Palaroide y'abafotora. Ibi byose byakusanyirijwe hamwe na Sylvie Lécallier, umuyobozi mukuru w'ikusanyamakuru ry'amafoto. Yerekanwe hamwe kunshuro yambere nkumunsi wo kwizihiza imyaka 50 ya Roversi mumafoto, bereka abashyitsi ibijyanye nubuhanzi bwe nuburyo bukora.

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Umubare munini wibikorwa bya Roversi muri rusange, no muri iri murika byumwihariko, ni amashusho (nubwo hariho amafoto ya kamera akunda nimbwa imwe wenda nayo akunda, ariko nabo, ni amashusho yubwoko). Kandi dukesha imiterere yihariye yumurimo we, igice kinini cyibishushanyo mbonera ni icyitegererezo; yakoranye na moderi zose zizwi zo kwerekana imideli mumyaka 30 ishize, ariko gake arasa amafoto yibyamamare. Ariko nubwo arasa abanyamideli bazwi, ntabwo yigeze yerekana clicés imenyerewe nabantu: ntabwo yandika abayoboke be nkimana zimibonano mpuzabitsina, abakobwa bakundana, na androgynous androide, cyangwa izindi stereotypes zizwi. Muri kimwe mu biganiro bye, Roversi avuga ibi bikurikira ku buhanzi bwe, nubwo yita “tekinike”, aho kuba “ubuhanzi”: “Twese dufite ubwoko bumwe bwo kwerekana imvugo. Urasezera, uramwenyura, ufite ubwoba. Ndagerageza gukuramo ayo masike yose kandi buhoro buhoro gukuramo kugeza igihe ufite ikintu gisigaye. Ubwoko bwo gutererana, ubwoko bwo kubura. Birasa nkaho bidahari, ariko mubyukuri iyo hari ubu busa nibaza ko ubwiza bwimbere busohoka. Ubu ni tekinike yanjye. "

Kate Moss ntabwo asa numwamikazi wa chic heroine, Nataliya Vodianova ntabwo asa numwana wubwoba, kandi Stella Tennant ntabwo asa na Orlando ya Virginia Woolf. Ibibaho kuri bose nibyo rwose Roversi avuga: akuramo ayo masike yose kugeza hasigaye ikintu cyiza gusa. Iparadizo, uku gutandukana kwakozwe na kamera ye ntabwo kwagura intera iri hagati yabarebera nabanyamideli, ahubwo irabigabanya, ikatwegera hafi yubumuntu bwabo, hamwe nibitekerezo byabo bwite. Ibi bigaragara cyane cyane mu rukurikirane rwa Nudi, rwatangiye mu 1983 rufite amashusho yambaye ubusa ya Inès de La Fressange ya Vogue Homme, yarashwe hejuru y’umwuga we, hanyuma akomeza nk'umushinga we bwite, aho yafotoye ibyamamare kandi bitazwi cyane icyitegererezo. Buri gihe muburyo bumwe - amashusho yambaye ubusa, yuzuye-yuzuye, ureba muri kamera, munsi yumucyo wuzuye utagira igicucu, urasa mwirabura n'umweru, hanyuma ukongera ukarasa kuri 20x30 Polaroid - kandi izi ngaruka zisa naho ziri kure kandi zihuza zifite yaremye ubujyakuzimu budasanzwe no kwerekana. Bakusanyirijwe mu imurikagurisha mucyumba cyihariye - kandi iki nicyo gice cyacyo gikora ku mutima, kubera ko iyi mibiri yambaye ubusa idafite igitsina icyo ari cyo cyose.

Muri rusange, Roversi akunda gukorana na kamera ya 8x10 Polaroid, film itagikora, ndetse nuwamufotoye nkuko yabivuze yaguze ibintu byose yashoboraga kubona. Iyi kamera yaje guhuzwa nuburyo bwe bwihariye kandi bumenyekana cyane bukoresha ibara numucyo kugirango bigire ingaruka zo gushushanya. Kandi niyo akoresha izindi kamera, ingaruka zirahari. Benshi baragerageje kandi baragerageza kwigana izi ngaruka, ariko ibisubizo mubisanzwe nibintu byibutsa umurimo wa AI. Imyifatire ya Roversi yumwimerere irashobora kuboneka muburyo burambuye kumurikabikorwa - mu mashusho yakoreye Vogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, na Luncheon, mu kwiyamamaza kwe kwa Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, na Romeo Gigli. Igikorwa cyuwashushanyaga imurikagurisha Ania Martchenko, wahimbye umukono we trompe-l'œil mu buryo bwidirishya cyangwa umuryango ufunguye gato usohora urumuri, bishimangira gukoresha shebuja gukoresha urumuri haba mu buryo bw'ikigereranyo ndetse no muburyo busanzwe.

Ariko imikoranire ya Paolo Roversi cyane nimyambarire, hamwe no gukusanya imideli, irihariye - arasa muburyo butuma iba ingingo ya kabiri yishusho, ariko amafoto ntahwema kuba imyambarire. Nkuko yivugiye ubwe: “Imyenda ni igice kinini cyerekana ishusho. Nigice kinini cyingingo. Nubwo, kubwanjye, buri shusho yimyambarire isa na portrait - Ndabona kandi mfata buri shusho nkigishushanyo, cyumugore cyangwa umugabo cyangwa umuhungu - ariko imyenda ihora ihari kandi irashobora gukora ibisobanuro byishusho cyane bigoye cyane. ”

Tuyikesha: © Paolo Roversi

Inyandiko: Elena Stafyeva