Abatwara umuyaga: Umuhengeri wa Seán McGirr kuri Alexander McQueen Impeshyi-Itumba 2024

McGirr yerekanye icyegeranyo cye cya mbere muri gari ya moshi ishaje ku nkengero za Paris, ku munsi w’imvura nyinshi w’icyumweru cy’imyambarire ya Paris: bityo, aside yumuhondo / icyatsi kibisi gishyirwa kuri buri ntebe kugirango abashyitsi bashyuhe. Mu myiyerekano ye, umuhanzi wo muri Irlande yavuze ko yifuzaga ko icyegeranyo cye cya mbere cyaba “A opulence. Guhishura inyamaswa imbere ”. Backstage, McGirr yasobanuye ko kubera ko ari bwo bwa mbere yasohotse kuri Alexander McQueen, kandi akumva ari umuntu wo hanze, yashakaga kwibanda ku byegeranyo bya mbere bya Lee nka “Banshee” (AW94) “Inyoni” (SS95) guhera mu myaka ya za 90, ubwo nyakwigendera uwashushanyije yumvaga ari umuntu wo hanze wenyine. Ati: "Icyo nkundira ni uko byose byoroshye, ariko bigoramye gato. Nijyanye no kurema ibyo ufite byose. Lee yafataga ibintu bya kera nka jacketi akabigoreka akabijanjagura akareba uko bigenda ”. Habayeho rwose rwose DIY kumva icyegeranyo, n'imbaraga z'urubyiruko rwa Londres. Nibyo, McGirr ari hano kunyeganyeza ibintu, nuko arabikora! < Iri joro, byose byerekeranye nabantu ba Londres utaramenya, ariko wifuza guhura. Noneho, hari imyobo y'uruhu n'ingofero ziperereza, hamwe nigipimo cyiza cya McQueen - tekereza amakanzu yanditseho inyamaswa, amabara ya aside, ibikoresho bya roza hamwe na motif izwi cyane. Silhouettes yajyanywe bikabije: imyenda minini ya chunky ifite amakariso hejuru yumutwe (uraho, Martin Margiela!) Nibimwe mubintu byaranze icyegeranyo. Hariho kandi tekinike zimwe na zimwe za couture zitunguranye: minidress ufite chandelier yamenetse hamwe nubudodo bwamagare butukura na orange, nkaho bikozwe mubintu byabonetse nyuma yimodoka. Kandi ibintu bitatu byanyuma bisa, imyenda yimodoka, ikozwe mubyuma, ibara nka Ferrari yumuhondo, ubururu bwa cobalt Aston Martin na Tesla wirabura. McGirr yasobanuye inyuma yerekana ko se ari umukanishi, ariko ntabwo ari ukubaha umuntu wo mu muryango, gusa ni urugendo rwo kumanuka mu mutwe: mu bwana bwe bahoraga baganira ku modoka n'imiterere yabyo mu rugo, kandi nuburyo yasanze hanze akeneye gukora imiterere nuburyo bwo kubaho.

Mugihe nyuma yuyu mugoroba ubwo Guido Palau yizihizaga umurongo mushya wo gutunganya imisatsi ya Zara I nanyuze munzira n'umuryango wa Katy Ubwongereza (styliste yari umwe mubo Lee inshuti magara), bose basaga nkumiwe. Abantu bose badukikije bavugaga bwa mbere McGirr bavuga ko bitatengushye. Ibitekerezo byinshi, ariko iyerekwa ririhe? Ntabwo byari kuba bitandukanye? Byagenda bite se niba izi nkweto ari nini cyane kuburyo zidahuye? Nibyiza, igisubizo cya McGirr ku kunegura kirasobanutse neza, asubiramo Lee McQueen wahoze avuga nyuma yo gutsindwa kwose: "Nahitamo ko abantu banga ibyo nkora kuruta kubitangaho ibisobanuro". Kandi nibyo nibyo bituma uyu mushinga wihariye abera inzu ya Lee McQueen. Ariko rero ni intangiriro gusa.Ntibyoroshye kuzuza inkweto zuwashushanyije ukomeye. Cyane cyane niba umuntu uvugwa ari Lee McQueen ukomeye, ashimwa nabanditsi, abaguzi, abanyeshuri ndetse nibisekuruza byabakunda imideri. Kandi kuza nyuma gato yuko uwahoze ari umuyobozi ushinzwe guhanga Sarah Burton, Lee ukundwa cyane na Lee wakuze umurage we kuva apfa muri 2010, ntabwo byoroha tak. Seán McGirr w'imyaka 35 y'amavuko, yavukiye i Dublin yinjiye mu nzu y’icyamamare mu mezi make ashize - mbere yuko akorera Jonathan W. Anderson ku kirango cye cyitiriwe izina nk'umuyobozi w’ibishushanyo, ariko no ku bufatanye n’isoko rusange ry’Ubuyapani. igihangange Uniqlo. Afite umwanya muri Dries Van Noten ku mwirondoro we, ndetse. Birashimishije.

Inyandiko: LIDIA AGEEVA