Injira munzu: Loewe Impeshyi-Itumba 2024 na Jonathan W. Anderson

Loewe ni inzu yingufu zimpu, nuko icyegeranyo cyarimo bimwe byerekana-guhagarara byanditseho nappa blousons, ubwoya bwuzuye ubwoya hamwe namakoti ya aviator. Icyegeranyo cyerekanaga verisiyo ivuguruye yagurishijwe cyane umufuka Squeeze. Gukina no gushira amanga, ibikoresho byo gusenga byabonye ibihangano, bishushanyijeho inyoni zo mwijuru cyangwa imbwa, zishushanyijeho amasaro.

Jonathan W. Anderson akunda gukina nigitekerezo cyuburinganire, bityo ubwinshi bwa ikoti rirerire itabi cyangwa ikoti-umurizo, ipantaro yuzuye na pajama. Backstage yavuze ko igikomangoma Harry ari kimwe mu byamuteye imbaraga, ndetse n’uburyo yagombaga guhora yambara mu ishuri ry’indaro. Ntamuntu wambara ibintu bisa, uko byagenda kose, usibye abagize umuryango wibwami, kubwibyo byari ikibazo kubikora kugirango bikore muburyo bushya bwimyambarire. Nibyiza, ibibi byacunzwe, ibice byasaga naho Loewe bidasubirwaho.

Abantu bose bazi ko Jonathan W. Anderson akunda ubuhanzi. Byari ibisanzwe rero ko ahindura aho yerekanaga kuri Esplanade Saint Louis, mu gikari cya Château de Vincennes, ahinduka ububiko bw’ubukorikori budasanzwe bwerekana amashusho ya peteroli ya Albert York cumi n'umunani ariko akomeye. Umunyamerika wasize amarangi yari azwiho kwerekana mu buryo bworoheje yerekana imiterere idiliki hamwe n’indabyo zikiriho (Jackie Kennedy Onnasis yari umwe mu bafana be bakomeye), kandi, igitangaje, ni igitaramo cye cya mbere kandi cyagutse cyane ku mugabane w’Uburayi. Anderson yasubiyemo kandi umuhanzi w'icyamamare mu nyandiko ye yerekana, wigeze kuvuga ati: “Tuba muri paradizo. Ubu ni ubusitani bwa Edeni. Mubyukuri. Ni. Irashobora kuba paradizo yonyine tuzigera tumenya ”. Tugomba rero kwishimira ubuzima mugihe cyose dufite amahirwe yo kuba muzima, kandi imyenda igomba kudufasha kwishimira kuboneka, kubaho muriki gihe.

Nkaho ubutumire bwo gusura inzu yigenga, the kwerekana byari bifite amazu menshi asanzwe. Amashurwe yindabyo nimboga kuva mubyumba byabashushanyo byabongereza byashushanyaga byahindutse ishusho kumyambarire, amashati cyangwa ipantaro. Imbwa yakundaga yagaragaye mu buryo bwa mozayike ku gishushanyo kigufi cya A-umurongo (amasaro mato mato yari agamije kwigana caviar, ibyifuzo bikunda abakire). Hariho kandi ibitekerezo bimwe bikomeye byo kwibonera: imyenda ifite ishusho yigana uruhu rwa ostrich isa nkuruhu nyarwo rwose. Ubundi trompe l'oeil yarimo tartans: cheque yashonze byukuri muri mille-feuilles yaciwe chiffon, yunguka ubundi buryo bwa 3D, kandi amakoti yamakoti yari ashushanyijeho ubwoya, ariko mubyukuri byari ibiti. Mugihe amapfizi manini, ubusanzwe akora, yakoraga nkumutako ushimishije kumyenda nimugoroba ukata ibyiyumvo, no hejuru muri suede. Birenze ibikoresho byoroshye, ariko umurimo wubuhanzi.

Inyandiko: LIDIA AGEEVA