Papila ro Oma: Fexeni ya HD yi tsundzuka un’wana wa vaendli va swifaniso lava nga na swifaniso swa xitukulwana

I mahungu lawa ya nga ta tani hi xihlamariso. Hi Ravumbirhi nimadyambu, Dries Van Noten u tivise leswaku endzhaku ka malembe ya 28 eka bindzu u ta tshika ntirho eka vito ra yena ra vito. Nkombiso wa yena lowu landzelaka wa swiambalo swa vavanuna hi June wu ta va wo hetelela. Though it’s still under wraps leswaku i mani loyi a nga ta tata tintangu ta yena, lexi se hi xi tivaka hileswaku i makumu ya nguva yo saseka swinene. Naswona, ina, Dries yi ta pfumala.

“Eku sunguleni ka malembe ya va '80s, tani hi jaha ra le Antwerp, norho wa mina a ku ri ku va na rito eka fexeni. Hi riendzo leri ndzi tiseke eLondon, Paris na le handle, naswona hi ku pfuniwa hi vanhu vo hlaya lava seketelaka, norho wolowo wu hetisekile. Sweswi, ndzi lava ku cinca mianakanyo ya mina eka swilo hinkwaswo leswi ndzi nga si tshamaka ndzi va na nkarhi wa swona. I’m sad, but at the same time happy, ku mi tivisa leswaku ndzi ta tshika ntirho eku heleni ka June. Ndzi vile ndzi tilulamisela nkarhi lowu nkarhinyana, naswona ndzi vona ku ri nkarhi wo siya ndhawu eka xitukulwana lexintshwa xa titalenta ku tisa xivono xa vona eka brand”, ku hlamuserile Dries Van Noten eka papila ra yena eka vahleri. Ku tlula xitatimende ntsena, kambe ku tlula xitsundzuxo xa munhu hi xiyexe eka vaaki lava n’wi seketeleke ku sukela hi siku ro sungula. Hi ku kombetela eka ku rima, i ntiyiso, ku tihungasa loku a ku tsakelaka. Hikuva Dries anga se tshama a va muendli wa swifaniso ntsena, minkarhi hinkwayo ari mulorhi, murimi wa ntanga loyi a tivaka ku byala swiluva swo saseka swinene naku swi hlayisa kahle.

N’wamabindzu wa fexeni eka xitukulwana xa vunharhu, grand dad wa yena a a ri muvatli naswona a a ri wa yena vatswari a va fambisa vuxavisi bya fexeni, Dries u thwasile eka Royal Academy of Fine Arts kutani a sungula ntirho wa yena eka swiambalo swa vavanuna kambe hi ntumbuluko swinene kusuka eka ndzhawu ya yena yosungula swinene ya Antwerp Six showroom e London u hundzuke mutivi wa ku rhunga eka vavanuna na vavasati, a hlanganisa ti print na mihlovo eka leswi hlamarisaka ngopfu eka ku hlanganisiwa. Minkombiso ya yena a yi tshama yi ri (naswona swa tika ku vula leswaku “were” ematshan’wini ya “are”) nchumu wa nkoka wa Vhiki ra Fexeni ra Paris, laha a nga kombisa ka mune hi lembe ku tlula 30 wa malembe sweswi. I nxaxamelo wa switsundzuxo swo saseka swa fexeni. Minkarhi hinkwayo a ri na mintlhaveko, a ri na xivindzi, a ri eka yinhla, na ti soundtrack ta showstopper, kambe a nga si tshama a borha. Muhleri ​​un’wana na un’wana u na swiphemu swimbirhi leswi a swi tsakelaka swa Dries’. Catwalk leyikulu ya tafula ra nkhuvo, laha timodeli a ti famba hi ku kongoma eka lapi ro basa ra tafula ra tafula ra swakudya swa nimadyambu ku tlangela nhlengeleto wa yena wa vu-50. Nkombiso lowu nga exitejini xa Opera Garnier. Ntirhisano na munghana wa yena na muendli-kulobye wa swifaniso Christian Lacroix kumbe ntsheketo wa le ndzeni Verner Panton. Rave ehenhla ka lwangu ra garaji ehandle ka doroba ra Paris. Loyi a ri na vanhwanyana, lava a va lounging va etlela ehenhla ka khapete ya rihlaza leyi nga na mossy. Kumbe leyi a yi ri ni vafana lava khomeke swiya-ni-moya leswi a swi tlanga mpfumawulo wa nongonoko loko va ri karhi va famba-famba eÉcole des Beaux-Arts.

Dries a a tshama a khathala hi vanhu. Hambi leswi ari ekule, vatirhi va yena va mavoko e India eka yena i va nkoka kufana na swipano swa yena swale Antwerp na Paris. Emisaveni laha xitori xa luxury giant Loro Piana xi tshovekaka Internet hikokwalaho ka mhaka ya ku tikhoma loko biha eka van’wamapurasi va Peru, ku tirha handle ko hakeriwa ku tsemeta voya bya Vicuña eka swisuti leswi endzhaku swingata xavisiwa hi magidi ya ti euros, xikombiso xa Van Noten xi tlula risima. Swi ponisa vutomi.

Vo tala va hina hi tlhela hi va vahlengeleti va yena lava hisekaka: Ku xavisiwa ka Dries eka vanghana na ndyangu yi hundzuke ntsheketo hi yoxe, laha vaseketeri va fambeke eAntwerp ku ya kuma mavoko ya vona eka swilo leswinene leswi kumiweke eka muendli wa swifaniso loyi a rhandzekaka. I ntiyiso leswaku eka minkombiso ya yena, u nga tshama u vona vaxopaxopi lavakulu va indasitiri, vaxavi na vaendli va nkucetelo, va ambale swiambalo swa yena hi ndlela yo pfumala xihoxo. Xiendlo xa rirhandzu ra ntiyiso, lexikulu ku tlula mpfumelelo wihi na wihi wa ximfumo wa indasitiri.

Hi lembe ra 2014, Musée des Arts Décoratifs yi nyiketele nkombiso wa yena n’wini, lowu hlayisiweke hi mutivi wa fexeni Pamela Golbin naswona wu nga na nhlokomhaka leyi nge “Inspirations ”, laha hi ku kongoma u nga nghenaka enhlokweni ya muendli wa swifaniso wa le Belgium ivi u twisisa leswaku misava ya yena yi endliwe hi yini. Ndzi ehleketa leswaku ndzi tlhelele eka yona ku tlula kanharhu. Entiyisweni a yi tsakeriwa swinene khale emasikwini, lerova muziyamu yi endle xiboho xo yi hlayisa ku ringana tin’hweti ti nga ri tingani leti engetelekeke. Nakona sweswo a swi ri emahlweni swinene ka nkombiso wa Dior wa blockbuster, lowu, ku vula ntiyiso, a wu ri na mpimanyeto wun’wana kambe a wu pfumala masalamusi.

Loko Dries Van Noten a xavisa switeki swa yena eka khampani ya swinun’hweriso ya le Spain Puig khale hi 2018, hinkwerhu a hi chava leswaku u ta swi endla ku lahlekeriwa hi ntshunxeko wa yena naswona nhlengeleto a wu ta va wa mabindzu swinene. U hi kombise leswaku hi hoxile. Ematshan’weni ya sweswo, u kume matimba lama engetelekeke eka ntirhisano lowu kutani a sungula swilo swo saseka ni swinun’hweriso leswi nga riki na xihoxo, leswi sasekeke ku fana ni swiambalo swakwe. Naswona hiku hetiseka eco-responsible, unga tlhela u tata ti arty cases na mabodlhela swinga heli. Van Noten utlhele a pfula ti boutiques tin’wana emisaveni hinkwayo letingana ti flagships ta maqhinga e China na Los Angeles, na boutique yin’wana e Paris e Quais Malaquais eka khale ka gallery ya khale, khabinete ya yena ya swilo swotsakisa. U sungule xitolo xa ecommerce, ku nga vuhundzuluxeri bya xidijitali bya ntokoto wa yena wo xava. Dries u pfulele tinxaka letintshwa ta vaseketeri va yena, a rhamba miehleketo yo lava ku tiva swinene ku lava ku saseka na swiambalo leswi nga na nhlamuselo eka vuako bya yena. Nakona sweswi, pulani iku endla leswaku endlelo leri ri tirha hilaha kunga heriki, hambi loko mbilu ya yona yi tlhelele laha ayiri kona, ntanga wa yena.

Tsalwa: Lidia Ageeva