Dior Haute Couture SS2024: Vutshila bya xiyimo xa le henhla exikarhi ka aura na ku tswala

Xin’wana xa swilo leswi xiyekaka swa Maria Grazia Chiuri swi le ka mhaka ya leswaku u tumbuluxile mpimanyeto wa yena wa Dior show, a susa mintlangu ya mintlangu ya mintlangu na vutlhokovetseri ya lava n’wi rhangeleke na ku va siva hi vutshila bya manguva lawa na vufeminisi. Naswona loko a ha tshama eka xivumbeko xa ku saseka loku tolovelekeke eka nhlengeleto wa yena, u projekta moya hinkwawo wa vufeminisi eka setup ya ti shows, a rhamba vatshila va xisati ku swi endla. Enkarhini lowu a yi ri ni swiambalo swa 23 leswikulu ngopfu, xin’wana ni xin’wana xa swona a xi lehe timitara ta 5, lexi endliweke hi Isabella Ducru, mutshila wa malembe ya 92 hi vukhale wa le Italy loyi a tirhaka hi malapi lama endliweke hi tindlela ta ndhavuko to luka. A yi vitaniwa Big Aura.

Rito “aura” ri hatla ri hi kongomisa eka Walter Benjamin na dyondzo ya yena ya vuxongi, laha “aura” a ku ri mhaka ya nkoka swinene leyi kuceteleke filosofi hinkwayo ya vutshila eka leyi landzelaka 100 wa malembe. Aura i nchumu wolowo wa ximoya lowu rhendzeleke ntirho wa vutshila naswona wu humelelaka eka ku hlangana ka swihlawulekisi swa wona swo hambana: ntiyiso, mongo wa wona wa matimu, ndhawu ya ku paluxiwa – naswona eku heteleleni wu fambelanisiwa na nkhuvo wolowo wo kwetsima lowu vutshila byihi na byihi byi nga landzelerisa timitsu ta byona eka wona. I leswi muhlaleri a swi twaka loko a tikuma a titimela emahlweni ka xifaniso kumbe ntlawa wa vatlangi. Aura leyi yisungule ku tshoveka eka nguva ya mechanical reproduction ya vutshila, nguva ya ku teka swifaniso na cinema, leyi hiku hetiseka yi fikeleleke xiyimo xale henhla hi malembe yava 1930s, loko Benjamin a tsala xitsalwana xa yena lexi dumeke xa The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. Maria Grazia Chiuri u tirhisa hi ku kongoma mhaka leyi eka haute couture, leyi nga swiambalo swo hlawuleka leswi endleriweke miri wo hlawuleka wa munhu wo karhi naswona swi dlayiwa hi vutshila byo hetelela. Hilaha Maison Dior yi xiyaka hakona eka vuhlanganisi bya yona, ku na xiyimo xo fana na aura xa haute couture: ntokoto wa matimba lowu nga riki wa ku anakanyisisa ntsena, kambe wu tlhela wu endla.

Defilé yi sungule hi mpfumawulo wa rito ra xisati leri phindha-phindha marito ya “weft and warp” hi ku phindha-phindha. Ti models leti a ti ambale ti all-cotton looks leti a ti ri na muvala wa classical wa ti trench coats naswona ti ringanyeta xivumbeko xa tona ti humile eka mimpfumawulo ya rito. Loko ti model to tala ti huma, swivumbeko swa mugodi a swi ri karhi swi n’oka hakatsongo-tsongo swi va swiambalo swo rhungela ni swikete swo leha leswaku swi va swiambalo swa Dior New Look leswi endliweke hi silika leyi cheletiweke leyi tlhelaka yi tiviwa tanihi moiré. Hi ndlela leyi cotton, ku nga ri lapi ra ndhavuko swinene ra couture, yi hlanganisiwe na moiré, yin’wana ya malapi ya xiyimo xa le henhla no durha swinene. Cotton na moiré swi hundzuke weft na warp ya nhlengeleto wa Dior haute couture PE24, leswi endleke rimba ro seketela leri Chiuri hi yexe a ri hlamuselaka tani hi “bulo exikarhi ka malapi mambirhi lawa swi vonakaka ya kanetana.” Naswona phuphu ya nhlengeleto i xiambalo xa La Cigale moiré kusuka eka nhlengeleto wa AH1952-53 Dior archive lowu Harper's Bazaar yi wu hlamuseleke eka nkandziyiso wa yona wa September 1952 tani hi lowu endliweke hi "grey moiré, so heavy that it looks like a pliant metal.”

Leri i ro sungula leswaku Maria Grazia Chiuri a tirhisa moiré naswona u nga vona leswaku u tsakisiwile hi vuswikoti bya yona byo endla xitayili xikan’we na ku koteka ka silhouette ya La Cigale, hi ku olova ka yona ka le handle na ku rharhangana ka le ndzeni ka ku tsemiwa na xivumbeko Vuyelo bya xikambelo lexi i nxaxamelo wa swiambalo swa moiré hi tinxaka to hlamarisa ku suka eka burgundy ku ya eka l’heure bleue, ku cinca-cinca ku vangama ka tinguvu ta le khoto ta moiré ta lembe xidzana ra vu-18 na ku hetiseka ka Dior’s New Look ku ya hi swilaveko swa vaxavi va Dior va manguva lawa va haute couture . eka hina ku suka exitulwini hikwalaho ka ku yelana ka yona. Аs Benjamin u te, “ku vona aura ya nchumu lowu hi wu langutaka swi vula ku wu vekisa hi vuswikoti byo hi languta hi ku tlherisela.”

Tsalwa: Elena Stafyeva

Swifaniso: Dior\ © Adrien Dirand, © Laura Sciacovelli