Paolo Roversi eGaliera Musée de la Mode de la ville de Paris

Leswi a hi ntsena leswikulu – leswikulu, entiyisweni – nkombiso wa ntirho wa Paolo Roversi, wu tlhela wu pfuleka eka yena eParis, doroba laha ntirho wa yena wa fexeni wu sunguleke kona eka 1973. Vahleri ​​va hlengelete mintirho ya 140 ya swifaniso, ku katsa na yin’wana leyi nga si tshamaka yi voniwa hi vaaki, va engetele swilo swo fana na timagazini, tibuku to languta, swirhambo na swifaniso swa Roversi, na ti palaroids ta muteki wa swifaniso. Leswi hinkwaswo swi hlengeletiwile hi Sylvie Lécallier, nhloko ya muhlayisi wa nhlengeleto wa swifaniso swa museum. Va nyikeriwile swin’we ro sungula tanihi ku tlangela malembe ya 50 ya Roversi eka swifaniso, va komba vaendzi leswi nghenaka eka vutshila bya yena na ndlela leyi byi tirhaka ha yona.

Vunyingi lebyikulu bya mintirho ya Roversi hi ku angarhela, naswona eka nkombiso lowu ngopfu-ngopfu, i swifaniso (hambi leswi ku nga na swifaniso swa khamera leyi a yi tsakelaka na mbyana yin’we kumbexana na yona leyi yi yi tsakelaka, kambe na swona, na swona, i swifaniso swa muxaka wo karhi). Naswona hikwalaho ka muxaka wo karhi wa ntirho wa yena, vunyingi lebyikulu bya swifaniso swa swifaniso i swikombiso; U tirhile na hinkwavo lava dumeke va fexeni eka malembe ya 30 lama hundzeke, kambe a hi kanyingi a teka swifaniso swa vanhu lava dumeke. Kambe hambi loko a duvula ti model leti dumeke, a nga kalanga a tlhela a humesa ti clichés leti tolovelekeke eka vaaki: a nga thayipilanga timhaka ta yena tani hi ti sexy goddesses, vanhwanyana va flirty, androgynous androids, kumbe swin’wana leswi dumeke swa stereotypes. Eka yin’wana ya mimbulavurisano ya yena, Roversi u vula leswi landzelaka mayelana na vutshila bya yena, hambi leswi a byi vitanaka “thekiniki”, ku nga ri “vutshila”: “Hinkwerhu hi na muxaka wa xisirhelelo xa xikandza.U wisa, u n’wayitela, u chava. thekiniki."

Kate Moss a yi languteki ku fana na hosi ya xisati ya heroin chic, Natalia Vodianova a yi languteki ku fana na fawn yo chavisa, naswona Stella Tennant a yi languteki ku fana na Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. Leswi humelelaka eka vona hinkwavo hi swona leswi Roversi a swi vulaka: U susa swisirhelelo leswi hinkwaswo ku kondza ku sala ntsena nchumu lowu tengeke. Lexi hlamarisaka, ku tihambanisa loku loku tumbuluxiweke hi khamera ya yena a ku kurisi mpfhuka exikarhi ka mulanguti na timodeli, kambe ku wu hunguta, ku va tshineta ekusuhi na hina eka vumunhu bya vona, na swihlawulekisi swa vona hinkwaswo swa munhu hi xiyexe. Leswi swi vonaka ngopfu eka nongonoko wa Nudi, lowu sunguleke hi 1983 hi xifaniso xa Inès de la Fressange lexi nga ambalangiki nchumu xa Vogue Homme, lexi tekiweke eka xiyimo xa le henhla xa ntirho wa yena, ivi xi ya emahlweni tanihi phurojeke ya yena ya le xihundleni, laha a tekeke swifaniso swa ndhuma naswona a nga ri na ndhuma ngopfu. Minkarhi hinkwayo hi ndlela leyi fanaka – swifaniso leswi nga ambalangiki, swa sayizi leyi heleleke, ku languta hi ku kongoma eka khamera, ehansi ka ku vonakala loku heleleke loku kongomeke handle ka mindzhuti, ku tekiwa hi muhlovo wa ntima na wo basa, ivi u tlhela u duvula eka 20x30 Polaroid – naswona mbuyelo lowu wu vonakaka wu ri wa ku hahluka na ku hlanganisa wu tumbuluxe vuenti byo hlawuleka na ku kombisa. Swi hlengeletiwa eka nkombiso eka kamara ro hambana – naswona leswi kumbexana i xiphemu xa yona lexi khumbaka mbilu swinene, hikuva mimiri leyi ya hava yi pfumala ku endla timhaka ta masangu na swin’wana.

hi ku angarhela, Roversi u tsakela ku tirha na khamera ya 8x10 Polaroid, filimi leyi yi nga ha endliwiki, naswona muteki wa swifaniso tani hi leswi a vuleke leswaku u xavile hinkwaswo leswi a nga swi kumaka. Khamera leyi yi fike yi fambisana ni xitayili xa yena lexi hambaneke ni lexi tiviwaka swinene lexi tirhisaka muvala ni ku vonakala ku endla leswaku ku va ni vuyelo bya xifaniso. Naswona hambiloko a tirhisa tikhamera tin’wana, vuyelo bya kona byi kona. Vo tala va ringetile naswona va ringeta ku kopa vuyelo lebyi, kambe vuyelo bya kona hi ntolovelo i nchumu lowu tsundzuxaka ntirho wa AI. Roversi’s original magical realism yinga voniwa hi vuxokoxoko eka nkombiso – eka swifaniso swa yena swa Vogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, na Luncheon, eka matshalatshala ya yena ya Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, na Romeo Gigli. Ntirho wa muendli wa swifaniso wa nkombiso Ania Martchenko, loyi a tumbuluxeke swin’wana swa swisayini swa yena swa trompe-l’œil hi xivumbeko xa fasitere kumbe nyangwa lowu pfulekeke nyana lowu humesaka ku vonakala, wu kandziyisa ku tirhisiwa ka ku vonakala ka n’wini hi ndlela yo fanekisela na hi ku kongoma.

kambe ku tirhisana ka Paolo Roversi hi swoxe na fexeni, na nhlengeleto wa fexeni, swi hlawulekile swinene – u duvula hi ndlela leyi endlaka leswaku yi va mhaka ya vumbirhi ya xifaniso, kambe swifaniso a swi tshiki ku va fexeni. Tani hi leswi a tivulaka swona: “Swiambalo i xiphemu lexikulu xa xifaniso xa fexeni. I xiphemu lexikulu xa mhaka. Hambi loko, eka mina, xifaniso xin’wana na xin’wana xa fexeni xi fana na xifaniso – ndzi vona no khoma xifaniso xin’wana na xin’wana tani hi xifaniso, xa wansati kumbe wanuna kumbe mufana – kambe swiambalo swi tshama swi ri kona naswona swi nga endla leswaku nhlamuselo ya xifaniso yi tika swinene.”

Ku vula hi ku pfumeleriwa hi: © Paolo Roversi

Tsalwa: Elena Stafyeva