Vakhandziyi eka xidzedze: Ku sungula ka Seán McGirr eka Alexander McQueen Ximun’wana-Ximun’wana xa 2024

McGirr u nyikerile nhlengeleto wa yena wo sungula exitichini xa xitimela xa khale ehandle ka doroba ra Paris, hi siku leri mpfula yi nga na mpfula swinene ra vhiki ra fexeni ra Paris: xisweswo, swiambalo swa acid yellow/green leswi vekiwaka eka xitulu xin’wana na xin’wana leswaku vaendzi va kufumela. Eka tinotsi ta yena ta nkombiso, muendli wa swifaniso wa le Ireland u vule leswaku u lava leswaku nhlengeleto wa yena wo sungula wu va “A rough opulence. Ku paluxa xiharhi lexi nga endzeni”. Endzhaku ka xiteji, McGirr u hlamuserile leswaku tani hileswi akuri ku huma ka yena rosungula eka Alexander McQueen, naswona a titwa ari munhu wale handle, a lava ku kongomisa eka nhlengeleto wosungula swinene wa Lee kufana na “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) kusuka eka malembe yava 90s, loko mufi muendli wa swifaniso a a titwa a ri munhu wa le handle hi yexe. “Leswi ndzi swi tsakelaka hi leswaku hinkwaswo swi olovile swinene, kambe swi soholotiwile nyana. It’s about ku tumbuluxa hi xin’wana na xin’wana lexi u nga na xona. Lee a ri karhi a teka ti classic elements to fana na ti jackets a ti soholota a ti pfotlosa a vona leswi humelelaka”. Kutani hakunene a ku ri na ku titwa ka DIY eka nhlengeleto, na matimba ya vantshwa va le London. Ina, McGirr u laha ku ta ninginisa swilo, naswona u endle tano!

Seán McGirr u pfule nhlengeleto wa yena hi rhoko leyi soholotiweke leyi draperiweke hi jesi ra ntima leri laminated a kombetela eka rhoko ya ndhuma ya clingfilm ku suka eka “The Birds”, modele u khome mavoko ya yena exifuveni. Vusiku bya namuntlha, hinkwaswo a swi ri hi swimunhuhatwa swa le London leswi u nga si swi tivaka, kambe u nga tsakela ku hlangana na swona. Kutani, akuri na ti leather trenches nati detective hats, na dose ya kahle ya McQueen’s references - think gowns letingana ti animal prints, mihlovo ya acid, switirhisiwa swa rose xikan’we na motif ya skull leyi dumeke. Ti silhouettes ti tekiwile kuya eka xiyimo xo tlula mpimo: ti chunky knits letikulu letingana ti collars ehenhla ka nhloko (hello, Martin Margiela!) akuri yin’wana ya ti highlights ta nhlengeleto. Nakambe a ku ri ni tindlela tin’wana ta couture leti a ti nga languteriwanga: minidress leyi nga ni chandelier leyi tshovekeke ni vuxongi byo tshwuka ni bya orenji bya bicycle reflector, onge hiloko yi endliwe hi swilo leswi kumiweke endzhaku ka mhangu ya movha. Naswona ku languteka kanharhu ko hetelela, swiambalo swa movha, leswi endliweke hi nsimbi, leswi nga na mihlovo yo fana na Ferrari yo tshwuka, Aston Martin ya wasi wa cobalt na Tesla ya ntima. McGirr u hlamuserile endzhaku ka xiteji leswaku tata wakwe i makhanikhi, kambe ahi ku xixima ntsena xirho xa ndyangu, ngopfu ngopfu riendzo ro ya ehansi eka memory lane: eka vuhlangi bya yena ava tshama va ri karhi va burisana hi timovha na dizayini ya tona ekaya, naswona hi yona ndlela leyi anga kuma ha yona out u lava ku tumbuluxa swivumbeko na swivumbeko ku hanya.

Loko endzhaku ka madyambu lawa eka ku tlangela ka Guido Palau ka layini ya yena leyintshwa yo hlayisa misisi ya Zara ndzi tsemakanye tindlela na ndyangu wa ka Katy England (muendli wa switayili a a ri un’wana wa va Lee vanghana lavakulu), hinkwavo a va languteka va pfilunganyekilenyana. Hinkwavo lava a va hi rhendzerile a va vulavula hi McGirr’s debut va vula leswaku it’s a bit disappointing. Miehleketo yo tala ngopfu, kambe xivono xi kwihi? Xana swi nga ha va swi hambanile? Ku vuriwa yini loko tintangu leti ti ri tikulu ngopfu ntsena leswaku ti nga ngheni? Kahle kahle, nhlamulo ya McGirr eka ku soriwa yi le rivaleni swinene, u tshaha Lee McQueen loyi a a tolovele ku vula endzhaku ka ku tsandzeka kun’wana na kun’wana: “I’d rather people hated what I do than not give a shit about it”. Naswona hi swona swi endlaka leswaku muendli loyi wo karhi a faneleka kahle eka yindlu ya Lee McQueen.

Nhlengeleto wo sungula wa Seán McGirr eka Alexander McQueen, lowu taleke hi swikombo swa ndzhaka ya muendli lonkulu wa swifaniso na nkarhi lowu hundzeke wa mutlhandlami wa yena, wu pfuxe xidzedze xa ku tsakela, leswinene na leswo biha. But then it’s only the beginning.A swi olovi ku tata swiambalo swa muendli lonkulu wa swiambalo. Ngopfu ngopfu loko munhu loyi ku vulavuriwaka hi yena ari Lee McQueen lonkulu, loyi a bumabumeriwaka hi vahleri, vaxavi, swichudeni na tinxaka ta varhandzi va fexeni. Naswona ku ta endzhaku nyana ka khale ka mukongomisi wa vutumbuluxi Sarah Burton, Lee’s beloved right-hand loyi a kuriseke ndzhaka ya yena kusukela loko a file hi 2010, aswi endli leswaku tak yi olova. Seán McGirr wa malembe ya 35 hi vukhale, loyi a velekiweke eDublin u joyinile yindlu ya xifaniso eka tinhweti ti nga ri tingani ntsena leti hundzeke - a nga si tirhela Jonathan W. Anderson eka lebula ya yena ya vito tani hi nhloko ya dizayini, kambe na le ka ntirhisano wa yena na makete wa vanhu vo tala wa le Japani xihontlovila xa Uniqlo. U na stint eka Dries Van Noten eka resume ya yena, na yena. Swi hlamarisa.

Tsalwa: LIDIA AGEEVA