Saint Laurent FW24: ku ndlandlamuxa ndzhaka

A swi kanakanisi leswaku ku humelela lokukulu ka Anthony Vaccarello ku vile vuswikoti bya yena byo vona na ku cinca ndzhaka ya Yves Saint Laurent , na ku hlanganisiwa loku khorwisaka ka swifaniso leswikulu swa YSL eka SL ya manguva lawa. A swi humelelanga hi ku hatlisa naswona swi n’wi tekele malembe yo hlayanyana, kambe sweswi, hi nguva yin’wana na yin’wana leyintshwa, ku teka ka yena ku languteka ku khorwisa swinene hi tlhelo ra tivholumo na ti silhouettes, na hi ku ya hi switirhisiwa na swivumbeko.

Xo sungula, a hi buleni hi tivholumo. Loko malembe nyana lawa yanga hundza, Vaccarello usungule ku kombisa ti jackets to kongoma letingana makatla yo anama swinene naku tiya, leti humaka eka leti Yves Saint Laurent anga ti endla ekusunguleni ka malembe yava 1980s, akuri ku nghenelela ka yena kosungula hiku kongoma eka ndzhaka ya Yves — naswona akuri loku hlamarisaka swinene eka sweswo. Ku sukela kwalaho, makatla lamakulu ma sungule ku toloveleka lerova hi ma vona hi ku kongoma eka nhlengeleto wun’wana ni wun’wana. Hi nkarhi wun’wana, Vaccarello u sungule ku hunguta tivholumo, leswi a ku ri goza leri faneleke, naswona eka SL FW24 a ku ri ni tijakete ti nga ri tingani ntsena to tano leti nga ni makatla lamakulu. Leswi swivuriweke, akuri na voya byotala — tani hi hiku angarhela eka nguva leyi — naswona akuri voluminous. Kwalomu ka model yin’wana na yin’wana ayiri na ti fluffy fur coats letikulu — emavokweni ya vona kumbe emakatleni ya vona, kambe ngopfu ngopfu emavokweni ya vona — naswona ava huma eka nhlengeleto wa ndhuma wa haute couture PE1971 na jazi ra yona ro koma ra rihlaza ra voya ra xifaniso, leri tekeke ku biwa lokukulu kusuka eka vaxopaxopi hi nkarhi wolowo.

Sweswi, swivumbeko. Loko nhlengeleto lowu wuri na nhlokomhaka, akuri ku va erivaleni, leswinga humelela swinene na nkombiso lowuntshwa lowu pfuriweke Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Nchumu lowukulu laha akuri swikete swo koma leswi vonakaka, leswi Vaccarello hiku angarhela aswi endleke xivumbeko xa yena lexikulu, naswona akuri na ti bustiers letinga erivaleni naswona, hi ntiyiso, ti classic YSL transparent blouses letingana mabofu. Kambe ku vonakala loku hinkwako, kumbexana hikokwalaho ka kutala ka Vaccarello’s currently favorite beige na sand, leswinga hundzuka mihlovo leyikulu ya nhlengeleto, swilanguteka nyana kufana na latex BDSM, naswona swifana nyana na Kubrick’s sci-fi. Lowu, hi ntiyiso, i muxaka wa masangu lawa Yves Saint Laurent anga se tshamaka a va na wona, na ku navela ka yena hinkwako ka ku kanganyisa lokunga na swihoxo nyana, kambe lokunga bourgeois swinene lokunga kombisiwa ngopfu eka swifaniso swa ndhuma swa Helmut Newton swa vavasati va YSL va malembe yava 1970s. Kambe leyi i ku lulamisiwa loku Vaccarello a endlaka leswaku SL yi va leyi faneleke namuntlha.

Eka niche leyi fanaka ya vuxongi bya malembe ya va 1970 u nga engetela tijakete ta pea leti hleriweke leti endliweke hi dzovo ro vangama, leti ambariwa ntsena hi milenge leyi nga ambalangiki nchumu. Naswona swifunengeto swa nhloko leswi bohiweke etinhlokweni ta ti models, na swikhomo leswikulu swa tindleve ehansi ka swona — kufana na Loulou de La Falaise hi malembe yava 1970s, leswi khomiweke eka swifaniso na Yves eka nightclub yin’wana, loko havumbirhi bya vona, tinyeleti timbirhi ta bohemian Paris, vari eka vona prime.

Entiyisweni, xifaniso lexi xa ku saseka ka xikhale ka Xifurwa na chic ya Xifurwa ya Les Trente glorieuses hi xona lexi Vaccarello a xi channelaka sweswi. Naswona muyimbeleri lonkulu wa ku saseka ka xikhale ka le Paris — ku nga va vanghana va yena Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, u swi thya vito — a ku ri Yves Saint Laurent hi yexe, loyi a tlangelaka ti diva to tano, femmes fatale, na swin’wana leswi a swi kombisiwa ka vusati bya xikhale bya le Paris . Namuntlha, Anthony Vaccarello u humelerile ku endla xifaniso lexi xa yena, a xi vuyisa evuton’wini eka vuhundzuluxeri lebyi byi ndlandlamuxiweke na bya manguva lawa swinene, a pfuxeta Yves Saint Laurent eka swifaniso swa yena swa xifaniso swinene na leswi amukeriweke kahle hi ndhavuko lowu dumeke. Kahle kahle, leswi, tani hi leswi Mafurwa ma nga vulaka swona, une très belle collection, très féminine, leyi a nga hoyozeriwaka hi mbilu hinkwayo — u lawuleke ku cinca ka YSL ku suka eka nkarhi lowu hundzeke ku ya eka wa sweswi kahle.

Tsalwa: Elena Stafyeva