Nghena endlwini: Loewe Ximun’wana-Ximun’wana 2024 hi Jonathan W. Anderson

Eka ximun’wana-xixika xa 2024, Jonathan W. Anderson u xixima mintirho ya Albert York, a hundzula ndhawu yo kombisa yi va yindlu leyi tolovelekeke ya le Britain naswona ku tlangela nkarhi wa sweswi wa ku hanya.

Loewe i yindlu ya gezi ya dzovo, hikokwalaho nhlengeleto lowu wu katsa ti show-stopper draped nappa blousons tin’wana, hoodie ya voya byo fluffy na tijakete ta aviator ta dzovo. Nhlengeleto lowu a wu ri na vuhundzuluxeri lebyi pfuxetiweke bya nkwama wa Squeeze lowu xavisiwaka ngopfu. Hi ku tlanga na ku va na xivindzi, xitirhisiwa xa vukhongeri xi kume ku cinca ka vutshila, ku khavisiwile hi swinyenyana swa le tilweni kumbe mbyana, leyi lukiweke hi vuhlalu bya micro.

Jonathan W. Anderson u tsakela ku tlanga hi mianakanyo ya rimbewu, xisweswo ku tala ka tijakete to leha swinene to tswonga fole kumbe ti tail-coats, maburuku yo biha na ti pajama. Endzhaku ka xiteji u xiyile leswaku Prince Harry ari xin’wana xa swihlovo swa yena swa nhlohlotelo, na hilaha a fanele ku tshama a ambale swiambalo swa yena eka titlilasi ta yena ta xikolo xo boda. Akuna munhu loyi a ambalaka swivumbeko swofana, hambi swiritano, handle ka swirho swa ndyangu wa vuhosi, hikokwalaho akuri ntlhontlho ku endla leswaku switirha eka xiyimo xintshwa xa fexeni. Kahle kahle, vubihi byi lawuleke, swiphemu a swi languteka hi ndlela leyi nga siveriwiki Loewe.

Un'wana na un'wana wa swi tiva leswaku Jonathan W. Anderson u na ku navela vutshila. Kutani akuri swa ntumbuluko eka yena ku hundzula ndzhawu ya yena yo kombisa e Esplanade Saint Louis, exivaveni xa Château de Vincennes, kuva ndzhawu ya vutshila leyi endliweke hi ku tisungulela ya Albert York’s eighteen small but intense oil paintings. Muvalangi wa le Amerika a tiveka hi swifaniso swa yena swa vukulu byo ringanela bya swifaniso swa idyllic landscapes na swiluva leswinga tsekatseki (Jackie Kennedy Onnasis ari un’wana wa vaseketeri va yena lavakulu), naswona, lexi hlamarisaka, i nkombiso wa yena wosungula naku anama swinene e Continental Europe. Anderson u tlhele a tshaha mutshila la dumeke eka tinotsi ta yena ta nkombiso, loyi a tshameke a vula hi ndlela leyi dumeke: “Hi hanya eparadeyisini. Leyi i Ntanga wa Edeni. Himpela. Hi swona. Swi nga ha endleka ku ri yona ntsena paradeyisi leyi hi nga ta yi tiva”. Kutani, hi fanele ku tlangela vutomi ntsena loko hi ri na lunghelo ro hanya, naswona swiambalo swi fanele ku hi pfuna ku tiphina hi vukona, ku va kona eka nkarhi wolowo.

As if an invitation to visit a private house, the show a yi ri na swikombo swo tala leswi tolovelekeke swa le kaya. Ti tapestries ta swiluva na miroho kusuka eka classical British drawing room ti hundzuke ti patterns eka ti gowns, mahembe kumbe maburuku. Mbyana leyi rhandzekaka yi endle xivumbeko xa yona hi xivumbeko xa mosaic eka nguvu yo koma ya A-line leyi vatliweke (vuhlalu lebyintsongo lebyi rharhanganeke a byi endleriwe ku tekelela caviar, swakudya leswi rhandzekaka swa lava fuweke). Nakambe a ku ri ni swifaniso swin’wana swa matimba leswi vonakaka: swiambalo leswi nga ni swifaniso leswi tekelelaka dzovo ra ostrich leswi a swi lava ku fana ni nhlonge ya xiviri leyi nga tolovelekangiki. Trompe l’oeil yin’wana ayi katsa ti tartans: ti checks hiku kongoma ti n’oka eka mille-feuilles sliced ​​chiffon, ti kuma swin’wana swa 3D materiality, naswona ti coat collars ati khavisiwile hi leswi aswi languteka kufana na voya, kambe entiyisweni akuri swifaniso leswi vatliweke hi mapulanga. Loko ti buckles letikulu, leti hi ntolovelo ti tirha, ati tirha tani hi ku khavisa loku kokaka mahlo eka ti gowns ta madyambu letingana ti sensual cuts, na ti tops hi suede. Ku tlula xitirhisiwa xo olova, kambe i ntirho wa vutshila.

Tsalwa: LIDIA AGEEVA