Omusono gwa Chanel ogw'ekika kya Haute Couture SS2024. Okusaanyawo Baleeti Russes

Chanel erina obutakyukakyuka obutasuubirwa omuntu bw’ayinza okuloota. Buli kye tuyita DNA n’obusika kikung’aanyizibwa, ne kiteekebwa mu katalogu, kiteekebwa mu bbokisi, kiwandiikibwako obubonero, era ne kitumbibwa mu piramidi etuukiridde, buli muntu n’akwatirwa obuggya: okuva ku kifaananyi ekitangaavu ekya Mademoiselle okutuuka ku kameli enjeru asembayo, ribiini enjeru, ne bbaatuuni ya zaabu. Ekitabo kya SS2024 couture ekiyitibwa The Button kyaweebwayo eri ekintu kino kyennyini. Naye wadde nga eponymous mini-movie serviced by pgLang, eyawandiikibwa era n’elagirwa Dave Free era n’eteebwa Kendrick Lamar wamu ne défilé set nga eriko button ennene ewaniridde wansi wa ceiling eyakolebwa Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free, ne Mike Carson, tewali kintu kyonna ku buttons mu collection yennyini. Ekituufu ekisikiriza ye Ballets Russes era nga dayirekita w’eby’emikono Virginie Viard bw’atugamba, okukung’aanya kuno kuweereddwayo okujjukira emyaka kikumi bukya Chanel atandika okukolagana ne Diaghilev.

Era okuva bwe twaweebwa ekisumuluzo kino, tetusobola butagezaako kuzannya nakyo. Ekisumuluzo kino kyangu okuggulawo oluggi olukulu olw’okukung’aanya kuno okwakaayakana ennyo okw’omu nsenyi, nga mu kino yunifoomu za baleeti zirabika bulungi — mu ngeri ya leegingi ne leetards wansi w’engoye zonna. Wano waliwo olugoye olufaanana ng’ebyoya ebyeru-pinki-ne-zaabu — lwa ani? Ku bantu ba Diaghilev, ani gwe yandibadde asaanira? L'Oiseau de feu? — Yee, mpozzi L’oiseau de feu, naye mu nkyusa esingako ekitangaala okuva ewa Virginie Viard, so si mu nkyusa ewunya okuva mu Léon Bakst. Era mu ndabika esembayo ey’omugole omusanyufu era ow’omulembe ennyo — Virginie Viard bulijjo atuuka ku buwanguzi n’abo — mu mini enjeru ng’erina emikono gya tulle egyafuukuuse n’eggaali y’omukka empanvu eya cape emabega w’omugongo gwe, Watteau&Rococo alabika mangu, nga bwe kiri mu ndabika eggulawo eyayanjuddwa Margaret Qualley tulaba enkokola enjeru efuukuuse eya Pierrot ye. Oba kintu okuva mu Ballets Russes nate? Ng’ekyokulabirako, Pétrouchka eyawandiikibwa Alexandre Benois? Omuzannyo guno ogusikiriza gusobola okugenda mu maaso naddala nga Virginie Viard yennyini ajjukira Bakst ne paleedi ye, era n’aggumiza akakwate k’ebyafaayo wakati wa Chanel ne ballet, n’atujjukiza nti Chanel awagira Paris Opera Ballet n’okutuusa leero. Naye okutwaliza awamu, embeera ya ballet tessibwako essira wano mu ngeri yonna — eno ya tender, elegant era, ekikulu, collection ya sitayiro ennyangu erimu bingi ebyewuunyisa, naye nga tewali kintu kya katemba.

Engoye zino zaali, ddala, okujaguza métiers d’art nti tewali kkolero lya Chanel eyinza kwerekereza — tulle, ruffles, pleats ne lace, embroideries eziraga draperies, mousseline plumes, obutaasa n’ebimuli, ensawo za illusion tulle, sequins. Tewali n’emu ku zo yakola ku ndabika zino okubeera ennene, n’eziwa empewo mu kifo ky’ekyo. Naye, okudda ku ntandikwa ya ballet, ekifaananyi ekyasooka okujja mu birowoozo byange, amangu ddala nga ndabye entunula ezisooka ennyo nga ziriko sikaati ezitangaavu n’engoye ezibuuka, tekyali Diaghilev wadde Bakst, wabula Margiela n’ekibikka kye eky’obukuumi ekitangaavu nti ye yayagala nnyo okuteeka waggulu ku ndabika ez’enjawulo. Kirabika Virginie Viard asazeewo okugenda mu maaso n’okukola dduyiro w’okumenya okuzimba gwe yatandikidde mu kkolero lya prêt-à-porter SS24 ng’ebintu by’engoye eby’enjawulo bisaliddwa ne bitungibwa buli kimu. Naye mu nkyusa ya haute couture, ekolebwa n’obuwoomi n’obutuufu, ekyayongera okusikiriza omusono guno.

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva

Eddembe ly'okuwandiika CHANEL