Dior Haute Couture SS2024: Ennyambala ey’omulembe wakati wa aura n’okuzaala

Ekimu ku bituukiddwaako Maria Grazia Chiuri ekyeyoleka kiri nti yatonda omutindo gwe ogwa Dior show, n’aggyawo katemba n’ebitontome ku bamusooka n’okuzikyusa n’assaamu eby’emikono eby’omulembe n’eby’abakyala. Era nga bw’asigala mu nkola y’obulungi obwa bulijjo mu kkolero lye, akola omwoyo gwonna ogw’abakyala mu nteekateeka ya pulogulaamu, ng’ayita abayimbi abakyala okukikola. Ku mulundi guno yabaddemu engoye 23 ezisukkiridde obunene nga buli emu ya mita 5 obuwanvu, nga zino zaakolebwa Isabella Ducru, omuyiiya Omuyitale ow’emyaka 92 akola n’engoye ezikoleddwa mu bukodyo bw’okuluka obw’ekinnansi. Kyayitibwa Big Aura.

Ekigambo “aura” amangu ago kitutegeeza Walter Benjamin n’endowooza ye ey’obulungi, nga mu kino “aura” ye yali endowooza esinga obukulu eyakwata ku bufirosoofo bwonna obw’ebitone olw’ekiddako Emyaka 100. Aura kye kintu ekyo eky’omwoyo ekyetoolodde omulimu gw’ekikugu era nga kisituka ku nkulungo y’engeri zaakyo ez’enjawulo: obutuufu, embeera yaakyo ey’ebyafaayo, ekifo we kibikkulwa – era ku nkomerero kikwatagana n’omukolo ogwo omutukuvu omulimu gwonna gwe gusobola okulondoola emirandira gyabwo. Ky’ekyo omulabi ky’awulira bwe yeesanga nga bafuuse bbugumu mu maaso g’ekifaananyi oba ekibinja kya bannakatemba. Aura eno yatandika okugwa mu mulembe gw’okuzaala ebifaananyi mu byuma, omulembe gw’okukuba ebifaananyi ne sinema, ogwatuuka ku ntikko mu myaka gya 1930, Benjamin bwe yawandiika emboozi ye emanyiddwa ennyo eya The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. Maria Grazia Chiuri akozesa butereevu endowooza eno ku haute couture, nga zino ngoye ez’enjawulo ezikoleddwa ku mubiri ogw’enjawulo ogw’omuntu yennyini era nga zikolebwa n’obulungi obw’enkomeredde. Nga Maison Dior bw’etegeeza mu mpuliziganya yaayo, waliwo ekitundu ekiringa aura eky’engoye ez’omulembe: ekintu eky’amaanyi ekitali kya kufumiitiriza kwokka, wabula n’okukola.

Defilé yatandika n’eddoboozi ly’eddoboozi ly’omukazi nga liddiŋŋana ebigambo “weft and warp” emirundi n’emirundi. Ba models mu ndabika ya ppamba yenna nga balina langi ya classical eya trench coats era nga balaga enkula yaabwe baavuddeyo mu maloboozi g’eddoboozi. Nga ba models beeyongera okuvaayo, ebifaananyi by’omukutu guno byali bigenda bisaanuuka mpolampola ne bifuuka eby’okutunga ne sikaati empanvu ne bifuuka engoye za Dior New Look ezaakolebwa mu silika eyafukibwako amazzi era emanyiddwa nga moiré. Mu ngeri eno ppamba, si lugoye olusinga okuba olw’ekinnansi mu couture, abadde agattibwa ne moiré, olumu ku lugoye olusinga ekitiibwa era olw’ebbeeyi. Ppamba ne moiré byafuuka weft and warp ya Dior haute couture collection PE24, ne bikola enkola ewagira Chiuri yennyini gy’ayogerako nga “emboozi wakati w’emifaliso ebiri egirabika nga gikontana.” Era empagi y’okukung’aanya ye lugoye lwa La Cigale moiré okuva mu AH1952-53 Dior archive collection Harper’s Bazaar gye yayogerako mu nnamba yaayo eya September 1952 nti yakolebwa mu “grey moiré, so heavy that it looks like a pliant metal.”

Guno gwe mulundi ogusoose Maria Grazia Chiuri okukozesa moiré era osobola okulaba nti yakwatibwako nnyo olw’obusobozi bwayo obw’okukola sitayiro wamu n’ebisoboka mu silhouette ya La Cigale, olw’obwangu bwayo obw’ebweru n’obuzibu obw’omunda obw’okusala n’... structure.Ekivudde mu kugezesa kuno kwe kulongoosa engoye za moiré mu langi ez’ekitalo okuva ku burgundy okutuuka ku l’heure bleue, nga zikyusa obulungi bwa gomesi za moiré court ez’omu kyasa ekya 18 n’obutuukirivu bwa Dior’s New Look okusinziira ku byetaago by’abaguzi ba Dior ab’omulembe guno aba haute couture . gye tuli okuva ku podium olw’obukulu bwayo. Аs Benjamin yagamba nti, “okutegeera aura y’ekintu kye tutunuulira kitegeeza okukiteekamu n’obusobozi okututunuulira mu kuddamu.”

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva

Ebifaananyi: Dior\ © Adrien Dirand, © Laura Sciacovelli