Fendi Couture SS24: Obutuukirivu bw’abakozi b’emikono obukwese emabega w’obutonotono n’obutafaayo ku biseera eby’omu maaso

Bw’ayogera ku nkola empya ey’engoye z’engoye, Kim Jones, dayirekita w’eby’emikono mu Fendi mu by’engoye n’engoye z’abakyala, ajjukira Karl Lagerfeld “futurism“ era n’annyonnyola ekirowoozo kya couture: "Mu kukungaanya, waliwo obuntu ku mutima gw'ebiseera bino eby'omu maaso; waliwo omubiri, silhouette munda mu silhouette, omuntu n'emikono gya couture. Okukung'aanya kukwata ku nsengeka n'okuyooyoota, nga byombi." okufuuka abatagabanyizibwamu. Kizibu okujjukira enkola yonna ey’enjawulo ey’ebiseera eby’omu maaso mu mulimu gwa Karl Lagerfeld, ekisinga okujja mu birowoozo byange bwe kitiibwa, obutonde obulinga obwambala obw’engoye ze ez’engoye za Fendi, Kim Jones mw’avuddemu nga bwe kisoboka Naye singa omwami Jones bw’ali ng’ayogera ku futurism, ekibuuzo kiri nti, futurism ya ngeri ki gy’ategeeza — futurism ya Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey oba futurism ya Roger Vadim’s Barbarella Nga tutunuulira engoye za silk enjeru ezigolokofu ezikoleddwa nga essira liteekeddwa nnyo ku geometry,? tutera okulowooza nti eno 2001: A Space Odyssey after all Naye okutunuulira ffiringi eringa amaliba, yonna eringa mu ndabika endala kijjukiza omuntu ekika ekipya eky’olususu, awamu n’endabika eya ffeeza eyali etungiddwa wa sikaati eyali eringa ebisusunku by’ebyennyanja, emikono egy’enjawulo egy’obutangaavu nga giteekeddwa waggulu w’enkokola, ne ribiini ya ffeeza eyali efumbiddwa mu ngeri ey’obukuusa mu ngeri ya Shibari nga tebibikka mabeere, kyali tekisoboka butalowooza ku Barbarella.

| Shibari top, – era si minimalism yonna yokka wabula eyo ey’omulembe gwa zaabu ogw’emyaka gya 90 nga gitandika, egya Miucca Prada oba Calvin Klein. Kim Jones tayimirizaawo kukendeeza kuno okutuuka ku nkomerero era mu kiseera ekimu, organza ebuuka erabika, nti virtually inevitable couture cliche, naye mu nkyusa ye erabika ng’obulungi obwa bulijjo. Wadde kiri kityo, silhouette enkulu ey’omusono guno, eyitibwa Mr. Jones Scatola, ekitegeeza bbokisi, eringa empya, nnungi, era ya mulembe nnyo. Silhouette eno efuna obuyambi bungi okuva mu silk gazar, olugoye Balenciaga lw’ayagala ennyo ne couture medium entuufu.

Enzimba n’okuyooyoota mu kukungaanya kuno byali bikwatagana ddala era nga biwaniriragana. Sikaati ezaali ziyooyooteddwa n’eby’okutunga nga ziriko ‘sequins’ eziringa ebyoya by’ebinyonyi eby’omu jjana, zaali zitebenkedde olw’amaanyi n’obuzibu bw’obukooti bwa cashmere. Era engatto za ffeeza ezaali zibikkiddwako amaggwa amampi era amakalu n’endabirwamu ezaali ez’omu maaso ddala (twaziraze dda) zaafukirira ekkooti y’engo eringa ebyokulwanyisa eby’ensingo empanvu eyabumbe ng’erina enkula etaliiko kamogo n’omutindo ogutaliiko kamogo. Okutwaliza awamu, Kim Jones yeewala obuzito obw’enjawulo — buli kimu, okuva ku byambalo bya vicuña ebisinga okubeera ebiweweevu okutuuka ku byambalo by’engo ebinyuma, nga bikwatagana nga ggalavu, nga biraga okusala okutuukiridde n’okutuukirizibwa kw’omulimu gw’abatunga.

Fendi Couture SS24 kumpi teyaliimu byoya Karl Lagerfeld bye yali ayagala ennyo okukozesa mu couture — yakyusibwa n’efuulibwa fringe ne tassels nga bikoppa olususu. Era okutwaliza awamu, omutendera ogw’enjawulo ogw’emikono gy’abakozi b’emikono bonna aba Fendi — okuva ku batunga okutuuka ku batunga n’okuva ku bakozi b’amaliba okutuuka ku bakola engoye — gwali guyingiziddwa mu bwangu obwo obw’obulimba obwa silhouette, obukweka obuzibu obutaliiko kamogo, obw’engoye zokka obw’omulimu. Kino, so si nnyo kitiibwa kya ngoye, bwe butonde obw’amazima obw’engoye, obutuusibwa Kim Jones n’obunyiikivu bwe butyo, n’obuntu bwayo obw’amazima. Era kati, ng’akula okuva mu layeri nnyingi ez’okukung’aanya kwe okwasooka, atuuse ku kifo ekimu mu bulungibwansi bwe, oluvannyuma lw’ekyo, nsuubira, obugulumivu obupya bujja kugoberera.

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva

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