Gucci FW24: obuwanguzi bw’ebigambo ebisongovu

Ekikung’aanya kya FW24 kyafuuka kyakusatu okutwalira awamu era eky’okubiri eky’okwambala nga kyakolebwa Sabato De Sarno, kale tulina ekimala okumaliriza oba a Gucci empya ezze mu byayo. Eky’okuddamu kiri nti, nedda, tekibadde — era kino kyalabika dda ddala. Era kyeyoleka bulungi nti bwe wabaawo ekintu kyonna ekisaanira okuteesebwako ekikwatagana n’okukung’aanya okupya, y’ensonga eziviirako obutamanya buno obw’obuyiiya.

Ka tukimanye — tewali kikyamu naddala mu De Sarno ky’akola. The collection is quite professionally done and even has some spunk — yandibadde perfect for some purely commercial brand etali yeefuula ekola ku mulembe. Singa De Sarno yeegatta ku Gucci oluvannyuma lwa Frida Giannini, bino byonna byandibadde ok, naye yadda mu bigere bya Alessandro Michele, eyakulembera enkyukakyuka y’emisono, n’abumba emisono egy’omulembe mu biti ebifuuse ebya bulijjo kati, n’afuula Gucci okubeera flagship y’enkyukakyuka eno. Bwatyo De Sarno yajja e Gucci ku kifo eky’oku ntikko mu byafaayo byayo — yee, si ku ntikko yennyini, naye ng’akyali mu kifo eky’amaanyi, era ekyo kye kyali okusoomoozebwa kwe yalemererwa.

Kiki kye twalaba runway ku mulundi guno? Micro-overalls ne micro-shorts, voluminous pea jackets, coats, oba cardigans, ezambalibwa nga tezirina wansi yonna — bino byonna oba nga biriko bbuutu empanvu oba nga biriko platforms ennene (de Sarno, kirabika, gye yasalawo okwekolera ekitundu kye eky’omukono). Micro ekintu nga kiriko ekkooti ennene enzito empanvu n’emikutu, engoye eziseerera, nga zirina layisi oba nga tezirina, nga zirina slit oba nga tezirina slit, naye nga zikyalina bbuutu eziwanvu ze zimu. Engoye z’okuluka n’amakanzu nga zisaliddwa n’ekintu nga tinsel y’omuti gwa Ssekukkulu ogumasamasa oba sequins ezimasamasa — era tinsel eno eyakaayakana eyawanikiddwa, kirabika, yali kipya kyokka ekya dayirekita w’ebyemikono omupya. Ebirala byonna mu kukungaanya kuno byawulira nga bifuuse bifuuse ddala n’ekyo ekyasooka — era ekisinga obukulu n’ebirala bingi ebikoleddwa abantu abalala.

Awo nate, tulabye kino ekimasamasa ekya Ssekukkulu tinsel emirundi mingi dda mu Dries van Noten collections — era ku y’emu ennene, empanvu amakanzu. Twalaba engatto zino empanvu, ne bwe zaali zirina obuwale/mini shorts ne cardigans ezifaanagana mu legendary Prada FW09 collection, era zino slip dresses nga zirina lace ez’enjawulo zaava butereevu mu Phoebe Filo’s collections for Celine SS2016. Era ekyo kyandibadde kirungi singa Sabato de Sarno yateeka ebijuliziddwa bino byonna munda mu ndowooza emu ey’olubereberye ey’olubereberye, n’abikolako ng’ayita mu kika ky’okwolesebwa kwe, n’abiteeka mu bulungi bwe. Naye ne bw’aba alina obukugu obumu, omulimu gwe kwe gubadde gwesigamye mu ngeri etegeerekeka obulungi, talina kwolesebwa era talina kirowoozo ku Gucci ng’ekika ky’emisono eky’omulembe.

Kale, kiki kye tulina wano? Waliwo ekibinja ky’ebigambo ebikutte emisono, munda mu zo osobola okusangamu emisono gyonna egy’omulembe, nga gikuŋŋaanyiziddwa era nga gitegekeddwa bulungi nnyo. Waliwo entunula ya ‘rather masculated sleek look’ eringa egezaako okumalawo Michele n’okuzuukiza Ford. Waliwo langi eziteereddwawo era ezirabika obulungi ennyo nga zisingamu langi emmyufu, kiragala, terracotta, ne ffene ezijjudde. Okutwalira awamu, waliwo okukung’aanya okw’ebyobusuubuzi okuva mu buziba naye nga kuteekeddwa wamu obulungi, nga mu kino Gucci awatali kubuusabuusa ateeka essuubi ddene ery’ebyobusuubuzi — nga kiyinza okukaayanirwa, nga kituufu nnyo. Wabula mu kkolero lino tewali kintu kyonna kinnyonnyola misono, ekituwa okwolesebwa ku ffe mu nsi ya leero, ekikwata ebirowoozo byaffe, era ekituleetera emitima okubuuka okukuba. Ate era, mpozzi ekigendererwa kya Gucci tekigaziwa wala nnyo —oba waakiri tekigaziwa mu kiseera kino. Mpozzi glamorization of style over substance kijja kufuuka fashion reality empya — naye singa ekyo kibaawo, tujja kusuubira nti tekijja kuba kiseera kiwanvu.

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva