Omusono gwa Maison Margiela ogw’emikono ogw’ekika kya Haute Couture 2024

Wiiki ya Paris Couture 2024 yatulaze engeri amakolero g’emisono gye gayinza okuba amatono, amapya, era ag’amangu. The gentle ballet-core Chanel Couture Spring-summer 2024 collection, emboozi ezzaamu amaanyi wakati w’ebyayita n’ebiseera eby’omu maaso ku Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-summer 2024 show, esanyusa era empya Jean Paul Gaultier eya Simone Rocha Couture Spring 2024 collection yatuwa amagezi ku kiki the... emisono egy’omulembe girina okukuwa. Nga tulina okutegeera okupya ku ebyo ebyaluŋŋamya abayiiya n’abayiiya b’amayumba g’emisono, wadde nga kiyinza okuwulikika ng’eky’okusaaga, ffenna twali tulinze okuggalawo wiiki ya Paris Couture okwennyika mu nsi ewunyisa omukka eya Maison Margiela.

| Katemba, emizannyo, enneewulira bye Galliano bye yayagalanga bulijjo era bye yasitula era kino kinnyonnyola nnyo lwaki twalaba omuzannyo ogwakolebwa ennyo mu mwoleso guno.

Nga bwe tutunuulira ennyo ekifo, eby’okwewunda era, ddala, entunula etagenda kwerabirwa: buli kimu mu butonde kireekaana nti y’entandikwa y’emyaka kkumi egiyise gye yali omulamwa omukulu ogwa show n’endabika naddala. Tewaaliwo ffeesi n’emu ku model eno eyali tefaananako ddole za celluloid ez’edda ezitagezaako wadde okuba eza ddala, kubanga obutuufu bwayo bwamanyibwa olw’obuyiiya bwa show eno n’omugenyi waayo: Kylie Jenner mu lugoye enzirugavu olwa sequined ekyo kigerageranya wakati w’ekifaananyi ky’akaguwa n’ekifaananyi ky’ekyennyanja. Okumaliriza entunula n’okugiwa obulungi n’obwagazi, Kylie yayongeddeko ggalavu ezitangaala; Christian Louboutin mu ssuuti entegefu eriko kkeeki, gye yakwataganya n’akatambaala akawunyiriza nga yeesibye n’obwegendereza mu bulago, ng’azingiddwa mu kkanzu enjeru ey’omulembe.Enkwatagana n’ekirowoozo kyonna ekya pulogulaamu ya Galliano byajjuzibwa abagenyi bennyini, abaafuuka ekitundu ku kintu ekitajjukirwa n’okuzannya mu ngeri ey’ekitalo. Okuva ku kumasamasa n’okukozesa ebintu bingi ebya Kim Kardashian okutuuka ku buziba bw’obulungi bwa Ella Richards: abagenyi bonna ab’omuzannyo guno ogutaggwaawo ogusikiriza era ogw’enkyukakyuka, nga gujjudde endowooza enzito eya Galliano, baali bambadde Maison Margiela, nga eno y’ensonga endala ekwata ku... ennyumba y’emisono ku nsi y’emisono, obuwangwa n’eby’emikono.

Wansi w’ekitangaala ky’omwezi omujjuvu n’amataala amatono aga Paris ekiro, kyali kizibu okwawula ffeesi za ba model ku bakadde ddole: Feesi za ba model zaali ng’ezibikkiddwako wax: omukugu mu kukola mekaapu ow’enjawulo Pat McGrath yakola ku bulungi obutayogerwako obwa mekaapu ya ba model. Omusamize y’omu eyabikka omubiri gwa Doja Cat mu bifaananyi bya Swarovski mu mwoleso gwa Schiaparelli couture show. Ekikolwa kya porcelain, ekijjukiza silhouette ya ddole za celluloid enkadde, Pat McGrath yatonda ng’ayambibwako masiki, eyasobola okuggyibwawo ng’etambula ekitangaala era eteredde. Buli kitundu kya ffeesi kyalabika nga kikuba enduulu nti kitundu kya ffeesi ya ddole enkadde eya porcelain Galliano ne Pat gye bamanyi. Galliano's models zaali nnyonyola ya 1910-1930's Parisians, endabirwamu ezimenyese ku mmeeza, draped tulle engoye, amataala enzirugavu, enviiri okulowooza, ekibuga ekiro eky'omu nsiko, amataala enzirugavu- 1910-1930's Parisian obulamu era ddala genius Galliano's touch can be read from anything at omusomo gwa Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024.

Ekiwato ekinywevu nga kiriko kkoosi, enkula za Margiela n’engeri gye yeekolamu ‘porcelain’ tebyakosa kutegeera kwa ddala kwa mubiri gwa Gallianos models, nga bwe baazudde enkolagana n’enviiri z’omubiri, nga ku kino okusalawo kwa Galliano kutwalibwa ng’okujeema emirembe gyonna era obuvumu. Yasanga obukakali n’ensiko mu bugonvu bw’ebifaananyi n’entambula. Obukulu obwali butuusibwa mu langi n’obubonero bwa Maison Margiela, obwali buzingirwa mu ffoomu, bwaddamu okutukakasa obugezi n’obutali bwa bulijjo bwa John Galliano. Galliano yaluŋŋamizibwa, mu bintu ebirala, okuva mu bikolwa by’omukubi w’ebifaananyi, omubumbe era omuwandiisi Omufaransa-Hungary Jules Halas, amanyiddwa nga Brassai. Mu 1932, yafulumya olutambi lw'ebiwandiiko "Night Paris", olwamuleetera obuganzi. Ng'akyuka n'atunuulira obulamu bw'abantu abali mu "social bottom", yalaga embeera y'ebbaala ne kabareeti z'e Paris, enguudo ezitaliimu bantu ezirimu enzikiza, nga basula wansi w'omutala, ekitangaala ky'ettaala z'oku nguudo, abakyala ab'empisa ennyangu abaali bannyogovu okuva mu bbaala mu kibuga ekiro.

Tekisoboka butakiraba nti okukung'aanya kuno ntaputa nnene ku kukungaanya kwa 2000. Silhouettes, amaanyi, ebikozesebwa n’obufirosoofo bilabagana nga bwe kiri mu ndabirwamu. Ku runway show twasobola n’okulaba ebitundu ebipya Galliano bye yalowooza nti kyetaagisa okutulaga: enkolagana gye twali tetusuubira eya Maison Margiela ne Christian Louboutin. Yee, abo baali ba tabi- louboutins.

Okukuŋŋaanya kuno axiom ekakasa nti art esobola okutondebwa okuva mu kifaananyi ekiteeberezebwa mu birowoozo, ebitundutundu by’olugoye, ebintu ebimenyese n’ebifaananyi ebyewuunyisa ebitaliiko muntu mulala yenna yali asobola kukyusa mu art okusinga Galliano. Ye yekka abadde mu kifo kya creative director w’ennyumba ya Maison Margiela okumala ebbanga ddene bwe lityo, kubanga mu kigerageranyo era mu ngeri ey’obukuusa ennyo ategeera obufirosoofo bw’ekibinja kino era alina okwolesebwa okutuufu okuwuniikiriza ku by’obulungi bwa Martin Margiela.

Omusono guno ogw’enjawulo gwaleka dda akabonero ku nsi y’emisono egy’omulembe akagenda okusigala naye emirembe gyonna.

Ekiwandiiko: Maksym Tymofeiev

Ebifaananyi: Maison Margiela