Paolo Roversi mu Galliera musée de la mode de la ville de Paris

Guno si mwoleso munene gwokka – ogusinga obunene, mu butuufu – ogw’emirimu gya Paolo Roversi, era bwe guli eyasooka mu kibuga Paris, ekibuga omulimu gwe ogw’okukuba ebifaananyi by’emisono mwe gwatandikira mu 1973. Omwoleso guno gwaggulwawo mu kifo ekikuumirwamu eby’emisono e Paris ekya Palais Galliera. Abategesi baakuŋŋaanyizza ebifaananyi 140 omuli n’ebimu ebitalabwangako bantu, ne bongerako ebintu nga magazini, lookbooks, ebiwandiiko ebiyita abantu nga mulimu obutambi bwa Roversi, n’ebifaananyi by’omukubi w’ebifaananyi Palaroids. Bino byonna byakuŋŋaanyizibwa Sylvie Lécallier, omukuumi omukulu ow’ebifaananyi eby’omu myuziyamu eno. Zayanjuddwa wamu omulundi ogusoose ng’okujaguza emyaka 50 Roversi gy’amaze mu kukuba ebifaananyi, ziraga abagenyi ebigenda mu by’emikono bye n’engeri gye bikolamu.

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Ebisinga obungi ku bikolwa bya Roversi okutwaliza awamu, ne mu mwoleso guno okusingira ddala, bifaananyi (wadde nga waliwo n’ebifaananyi bya kkamera gy’ayagala ennyo n’embwa emu mpozzi nayo gy’ayagala ennyo, naye nazo, bwe ziri ebifaananyi eby’engeri emu). Era olw’obutonde obw’enjawulo obw’omulimu gwe, ebisinga obungi ku bifaananyi ebikwatibwako biba bifaananyi; akoze n’abayimbi bonna abamanyiddwa ennyo mu myaka 30 egiyise, kyokka tatera kukuba bifaananyi bya basereebu. Naye ne bw’aba akuba ebifaananyi by’abayimbi abatutumufu, taddamu kukola bigambo bya clichés abantu bye bamanyidde: tawandiika bantu b’akwata mu ngeri ya typecast nga bakatonda abakazi abasesa, abawala abapepeya, androgynous androids, oba ebigambo ebirala ebimanyiddwa ennyo. Mu emu ku mboozi ze, Roversi ayogera bino wammanga ku by’emikono bye, wadde ng’abiyita “obukodyo”, so si “buyiiya”: “Ffenna tulina ekika kya masiki y’okwolesa. Osiibula, omwenya, otya. Nfuba okuggya masiki zino zonna ne nzigyako mpolampola okutuusa lw’osigala ng’olina ekirongoofu. Ekika ky’okusuula, ekika ky’obutabaawo. Kirabika nga tewali, naye mu butuufu bwe wabaawo obwereere buno ndowooza obulungi obw’omunda buvaayo. Buno bwe bukodyo bwange."

Kate Moss tafaanana queen wa heroin chic, Natalia Vodianova tafaanana fawn etidde, ate Stella Tennant tafaanana Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. Ekibatuukako bonna kye kyennyini Roversi ky’agamba: masiki zino zonna aziggyako okutuusa lwe wasigaddewo ekintu ekirongoofu kyokka. Ekyewuunyisa, okwekutula kuno okwatondebwawo kkamera ye tekugaziya bbanga wakati w’omulabi n’abakola ebifaananyi, wabula kulikendeeza, ne kibasembereza mu buntu bwabwe, n’ebintu byabwe byonna eby’enjawulo eby’obuntu. Kino kyeyoleka nnyo mu muzannyo gwa Nudi series, ogwatandika mu 1983 n’ekifaananyi kya Inès de La Fressange ng’ali bukunya mu Vogue Homme, ekyakwatibwa ku ntikko y’omulimu gwe, n’oluvannyuma ne kigenda mu maaso nga pulojekiti ye ey’obwannannyini, gye yakubye ebifaananyi eby’ettutumu ate nga si bya ttutumu nnyo ebikozesebwa (models). Bulijjo mu ngeri y’emu – ebifaananyi eby’obwereere, ebya sayizi enzijuvu, okutunula butereevu mu kkamera, wansi w’ekitangaala ekijjuvu obutereevu awatali bisiikirize, nga bikubiddwa mu langi enjeru n’eddugala, n’oluvannyuma ne biddamu okukubwa ku Polaroid eya 20x30 – era kino ekirabika ng’eky’ewala era ekigatta ekikolwa kirina yatonda obuziba obw’enjawulo n’okwolesebwa. Zikung’aanyizibwa mu mwoleso mu kisenge eky’enjawulo – era kino mpozzi kye kitundu kyagwo ekisinga okukwata ku mutima, kubanga emibiri gino egy’obwereere tegirina kwegatta kwonna.

Okutwalira awamu, Roversi ayagala nnyo okukola ne kkamera ya Polaroid eya 8x10, firimu eno tekyakolebwa, era omukubi w’ebifaananyi nga bwe yagamba aguze buli ky’asobola okusanga. Kkamera eno ezze ekwatagana n’omusono gwe ogw’enjawulo era ogumanyiddwa ennyo ogukozesa langi n’ekitangaala okukola effect y’ekifaananyi. Era ne bw’akozesa kkamera endala, effect ebeerawo. Bangi bagezezzaako era bagezaako okukoppa effect eno, naye ekivaamu ebiseera ebisinga kiba kintu ekijjukiza omulimu gwa AI. Roversi’s original magical realism esobola okulabibwa mu bujjuvu mu mwoleso – mu shoots ze ya Vogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, ne Luncheon, mu kampeyini ze ya Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, ne Romeo Gigli. Omulimu gw’omuwandiisi w’ebifaananyi ow’omwoleso Ania Martchenko, eyatonda trompe-l’œil ze eziwerako ez’omukono mu ngeri y’eddirisa oba oluggi oluggule katono olufulumya ekitangaala, guggumiza enkozesa ya mukama ekitangaala mu ngeri ey’olugero ne mu ngeri ey’obugambo.

Naye enkolagana ya Paolo Roversi ennyo n’emisono, n’emisono gy’akuŋŋaanyizza, ya njawulo nnyo – akuba mu ngeri efuula ekintu eky’okubiri mu kifaananyi, naye ebifaananyi tebikoma kubeera mulembe. Nga bw’agamba ye kennyini: “Engoye kitundu kinene ku kifaananyi ky’emisono. Kitundu kinene ku nsonga eno. Ne bwe kiba nti, ku lwange, buli kifaananyi ky’emisono kiringa ekifaananyi – buli kifaananyi nkitunuulira era nkitwala ng’ekifaananyi, eky’omukazi oba omusajja oba omulenzi – naye engoye bulijjo zibeerawo era zisobola okufuula okutaputa kw’ekifaananyi okuba ennyo ebizibu ennyo.”

Kyaweereddwayo: © Paolo Roversi

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva