Paolo Roversi mu kibuga Galliera Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris .

Kino si kinene kyokka – ekisinga obunene, mu butuufu – omwoleso gw’omulimu gwa Paolo Roversi, era gwe gusoose mu kibuga Paris, ekibuga omulimu gwe ng’omukubi w’ebifaananyi ogw’emisono gye gwatandikira mu 1973. Omwoleso guno gwaggulwawo mu kibuga Paris eky’omulembe ekya Palais Galliera. Abategesi baakuŋŋaanya ebifaananyi 140, omuli ebimu ebitalabibwangako bantu, baayongera ebintu nga magazini, lookbooks, okuyita n’ebifaananyi bya Roversi, n’ebifaananyi by’omukubi w’ebifaananyi. Bino byonna byakuŋŋaanyizibwa Sylvie Lécallier, omukuumi omukulu ow’ebifaananyi eby’ebifaananyi eby’omu myuziyamu. Baweereddwa wamu omulundi ogusoose ng’okujaguza emyaka 50 egy’okukuba ebifaananyi, balaga abagenyi ebigenda mu by’emikono bye n’engeri gye bikolamu.

Ebikolwa bya Roversi ebisinga obungi okutwaliza awamu, era mu mwoleso guno naddala, bifaananyi (wadde nga waliwo n'ebifaananyi bya kkamera gy'ayagala ennyo n'embwa emu mpozzi n'okumusinga okumwagala, naye nabo, bifaananyi bya ngeri). Era olw’obutonde obw’enjawulo obw’omulimu gwe, ebisinga obungi ku bifaananyi by’ebifaananyi biba bya model; Abadde akola ne ba models bonna abamanyiddwa ennyo mu myaka 30 egiyise, naye tatera kukuba bifaananyi bya basereebu. Naye ne bw’aba akuba ebifaananyi eby’amaanyi, taddamu kuzaala ba clichés abamanyiddwa abantu bonna: tawandiika bantu be nga bakatonda abakazi abasexy, abawala abapepeya, androgynous androids, oba abalala abamanyiddwa ennyo. Mu emu ku mboozi ze, Roversi agamba bino wammanga ku by’emikono bye, wadde abiyita “obukodyo”, so si “kuyiiya”: “Ffenna tulina ekika kya masiki eky’okwogera.Osiibula, omwenya, otya.Nfuba okuggya masiki zino zonna okuvaayo era katono mu bbanga ttono okutuusa ng’olina ekintu ekirekeddwa. obukodyo."

Kate Moss tafaanana nga queen wa heroin chic, Natalia Vodianova tafaanana fawn atidde, ate Stella Tennant tafaanana Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. Ekituuka ku bonna kye kyennyini Roversi ky’ayogera: Aggyawo masiki zino zonna okutuusa ng’ekintu ekirongoofu kyokka kisigadde. Ekyewuunyisa, okwekutula kuno okutondebwawo kkamera ye tekugaziya bbanga wakati w’omulabi n’ebikozesebwa, wabula kukikendeeza, kibasembereza mu buntu bwabwe, n’obutafaanagana bwabwe bwonna obw’obuntu. Kino kyeyoleka nnyo mu NUDI series, eyatandika mu 1983 n’ekifaananyi eky’obwereere ekya Inès de la Fressange for Vogue Homme, n’akuba amasasi ku ntikko y’omulimu gwe, n’oluvannyuma n’agenda mu maaso nga pulojekiti ye ey’obwannannyini, gye yakuba ebifaananyi eby’amaanyi so si ba model abamanyiddwa ennyo. Bulijjo mu ngeri y’emu – ebifaananyi eby’obwereere, eby’obunene obujjuvu, okutunula butereevu mu kkamera, wansi w’ekitangaala ekijjuvu obutereevu nga tewali bisiikirize, bikubiddwa mu langi enjeru n’eddugala, n’oluvannyuma n’oddamu okukuba amasasi ku 20x30 polaroid – era kino ekirabika ng’eky’okuwuguka n’okugatta kitondeddewo obuziba obw’enjawulo n’okulaga. Zikuŋŋaanyizibwa mu mwoleso guno mu kisenge eky’enjawulo – era kino mpozzi kye kitundu kyakyo ekisinga okukwata ku mutima, kubanga emibiri gino egy’obwereere tegiriimu kwegatta kwonna.

okutwaliza awamu, Roversi ayagala nnyo okukola ne 8x10 Polaroid camera, firimu nga tekyalina kukolebwa, era omukubi w’ebifaananyi nga bwe yagamba nti aguze buli kimu ky’ayinza okusanga. Kkamera eno ezze ekwatagana n’omusono gwe ogw’enjawulo era ogumanyiddwa ennyo ogukozesa langi n’ekitangaala okukola effect y’ekifaananyi. Era ne bw’aba akozesa kkamera endala, effect ebaawo. Bangi bagezezzaako era bagezaako okukoppa ekikolwa kino, naye ekivaamu ebiseera ebisinga kiba kintu ekijjukiza omulimu gwa AI. Roversi’s original magical realism esobola okulabibwa mu bujjuvu mu mwoleso guno – mu bifaananyi bye ebya Vogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, n’ekyemisana, mu kampeyini ze eza Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, ne Romeo Gigli. Omulimu gw’omukugu mu mwoleso guno, Ania Martchenko, eyakola abawerako ku trompe-l’œil ye ey’omukono mu ngeri y’eddirisa oba oluggi oluggule katono olufulumya ekitangaala, guggumiza Master okukozesa ekitangaala mu ngeri ey’olugero n’engeri gye.

naye Paolo Roversi’s very interaction with fashion, with fashion collections, is quite unique – akuba mu ngeri efuula ekifaananyi eky’okubiri eky’ekifaananyi, naye ebifaananyi tebikoma kuba bya mulembe. Nga bw’agamba nti: “Engoye kitundu kinene eky’ekifaananyi ky’emisono.Kya kitundu kinene ku nsonga.Ne bwe kiba nti, ku lwange, buli kifaananyi ky’emisono kiringa ekifaananyi – ndaba era ne nkwata buli kifaananyi ng’ekifaananyi, eky’omukazi oba omusajja oba omulenzi – naye engoye bulijjo zibeerawo era zisobola okufuula okutaputa ekifaananyi ekizibu ennyo.”

Ekyuma: © Paolo Roversi

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva