Abavuzi mu kibuyaga: Seán McGirr omupiira ogusoose mu Alexander McQueen Autumn-Winter 2024

McGirr yayanjudde omusono gwe ogusoose mu siteegi y’eggaali y’omukka enkadde ku njegoyego z’ekibuga Paris, ku lunaku olusinga okutonnya mu wiiki y’emisono e Paris: bwe kityo, emifaliso egya asidi egya kyenvu/kijanjalo egyateekebwa ku buli ntebe abagenyi okubuguma. Mu biwandiiko bye eby’okulaga, omukubi w’ebifaananyi ono Omuyindi yategeezezza nti ayagala omusono gwe ogusooka gubeere “A rough opulence. Okubikkula ensolo eri munda”. Emabega w’empenda, McGirr yannyonnyodde nti olw’okuba gwe gwali omulundi gwe ogusoose okugenda ku Alexander McQueen, era ng’awulira ng’omuntu ow’ebweru, yayagala okussa essira ku nnyimba za Lee ezaasooka ennyo nga “Banshee” (AW94) “The Birds” (SS95) okuva mu myaka gya 90, ddi omugenzi omukugu mu kukola dizayini yennyini yawulira ng’omuntu ow’ebweru. “Kye njagala ku kyo nti byonna byangu nnyo, naye nga bikyuse katono. Kikwata ku kuyiiya n’ekyo kyonna ky’olina. Lee yali akwata ebintu bya classic nga jackets n’abinyiganyiga n’abinyiganyiga n’alaba ekiddako”. Kale mazima ddala waaliwo DIY feeling ku collection, n'amaanyi g'abavubuka b'e London. Yee, McGirr ali wano okukankanya ebintu, era bw’atyo bwe yakola!

Seán McGirr yagguddewo omusono gwe n’olugoye olwa distorted draped mu mujoozi omuddugavu ogwa laminated ng’ajuliza olugoye olumanyiddwa ennyo olwa clingfilm okuva mu “The Birds”, omukozi ono yakwata emikono gye mu kifuba. Ekiro kino, byonna byabadde bikwata ku bantu b’e London b’otomanyi, naye nga wandyagadde okusisinkana. Awo, waaliwo emifulejje egy’amaliba n’enkoofiira za bambega, ne ddoozi ennungi ey’ebijuliziddwa McQueen - lowooza gomesi eziriko ebiwandiiko by’ebisolo, langi za asidi, ebikozesebwa mu rose n’omusono gw’ekiwanga ogumanyiddwa ennyo. Silhouettes zatwalibwa ku ntikko: big chunky knits nga ziriko enkokola waggulu waggulu w’omutwe (hello, Martin Margiela!) kye kimu ku bikulu mu collection. Waaliwo n’obukodyo bw’okukola engoye obwali tebusuubirwa: minidress ng’eriko chandelier eyamenyese n’okutunga ebitangaaza by’obugaali ebya langi emmyufu n’emicungwa, ng’elinga eyakolebwa okuva mu bintu ebyazuulibwa oluvannyuma lw’okugwa kw’emmotoka. Era entunula essatu ezisembayo, engoye z’emmotoka, ezikoleddwa mu kyuma, nga za langi nga Ferrari eya kyenvu, Aston Martin eya bbululu wa kobalt ne Tesla omuddugavu. McGirr yannyonnyodde emabega w’empenda nti kitaawe makanika, naye si kussa kitiibwa mu muntu wa famire yokka, okusinga olugendo mu kkubo ly’okujjukira: mu buto bwe bulijjo baali bateesa ku mmotoka ne dizayini yazo awaka, era eno y’engeri gye yazudde out yeetaaga okutondawo ebifaananyi n’ebifaananyi okusobola okubeezaawo obulamu.

Bwe bwakedde akawungeezi ka leero ku Guido Palau okujaguza layini ye empya ey’okulabirira enviiri eri Zara nasala amakubo ne famire ya Katy England (omukozi w’enviiri yali omu ku ba Lee mikwano gyabwe egy’oku lusegere), bonna baali balabika nga basobeddwa katono. Buli muntu eyatubeetoolodde yabadde ayogera ku muzannyo gwa McGirr ogusoose ng’agamba nti it’s a bit disappointing. Ebirowoozo bingi nnyo, naye okwolesebwa kuli ludda wa? Kyandiba nga kyali kya njawulo? Watya singa engatto zino ziba nnene nnyo nga tezisobola kuzikwata? Well, McGirr’s response to criticism is quite clear, ajuliza Lee McQueen eyali agamba oluvannyuma lwa buli kulemererwa nti: “I’d rather people hated what I do than not give a shit about it”. Era ekyo kye kifuula dizayini ono yennyini okutuuka obulungi mu nnyumba ya Lee McQueen.

Ekikuŋŋaanyizo ekyasooka ekya Seán McGirr eri Alexander McQueen, nga kijjudde ebigambo ebikwata ku nsikirano y’omukubi w’ebifaananyi omukulu n’ebyo ebyayitawo eyamuddira mu bigere, kyaleetawo omuyaga gw’okufaayo, ebirungi n’ebibi. Naye ate it’s only the beginning.Si kyangu kujjuza ngatto za dizayina omukulu. Naddala singa omuntu ayogerwako ye Lee McQueen omukulu, atenderezebwa abafulumya ebitabo, abaguzi, abayizi n’emilembe gy’abawagizi b’emisono. Era okujja nga wayiseewo akaseera katono ng’eyali dayirekita w’obuyiiya Sarah Burton, Lee’s beloved right-hand eyakuza omusika gwe okuva lwe yafa mu 2010, tekifuula tak yangu. Omusajja ono ow’emyaka 35, enzaalwa y’e Dublin, Seán McGirr yeegatta ku nnyumba eno emanyiddwa ennyo emyezi mitono emabega - nga tannakolera Jonathan W. Anderson ku kkampuni gye yatuuma erinnya lye ng’akulira dizayini, naye ne ku nkolagana ye n’akatale k’abantu abangi mu Japan ekinene Uniqlo. Alina stint mu Dries Van Noten ku resume ye, era. Kiwuniikiriza.

Ekiwandiiko: LIDIA AGEEVA