Saint Laurent FW24: okulongoosa omusika

Tewali kubuusabuusa nti ekintu ekikulu Anthony Vaccarello ky’atuuseeko kwe kusobola okutegeera n’okukyusakyusa omusika gwa Yves Saint Laurent , n’okugatta okumatiza kwa silhouettes enkulu eza YSL mu SL ey’omulembe. Tekyabaawo mangu era kyamutwalira emyaka egiwerako, naye kati, buli sizoni empya, okutwala kwe kulabika kweyongera okumatiza mu by’obunene ne silhouettes, ne mu bikozesebwa n’obutonde.

Ka tusooke twogere ku voliyumu. Emyaka mitono emabega, Vaccarello bwe yasooka okulaga obukooti obugolokofu nga bulina ebibegabega ebigazi era ebikaluba mu ngeri ey’okuggumiza, nga biva mu ebyo Yves Saint Laurent bye yakola ku ntandikwa y’emyaka gya 1980, ye yali esoose okuyingira obutereevu mu nsikirano ya Yves — era nga yawunyisa nnyo ku ekyo. Okuva olwo, ebibegabega ebinene byafuuka bya bulijjo nnyo ne tubiraba ddala mu buli nkuŋŋaanya emu. Waliwo we yatuuse, Vaccarello n’atandika okukendeeza ku bunene bw’amaloboozi, nga kino kye kyali ekituufu, era mu SL FW24 mwalimu obukooti obw’engeri eno obutonotono obulina ebibegabega ebinene. Ekyo kyogeddwa, waaliwo ebyoya bingi — nga okutwaliza awamu sizoni eno — era byali binene. Kumpi buli model yalina ekkooti ennene ez’ebyoya ebifuukuuse — mu ngalo zaabwe oba ku bibegabega byabwe, naye emirundi mingi mu ngalo zaabwe — era nga zaava mu kkanzu ya haute couture emanyiddwa ennyo eya PE1971 n’ekkanzu yaayo ennyimpi eya kiragala ey’ebyoya, eyatwala okukubwa okw’amaanyi okuva mu bavumirira mu kiseera ekyo.

Kati, ebiwandiiko. Bwe kiba nti okukung’aanya kuno kwalina omulamwa, kwali bwerufu, okwakwatagana obulungi ennyo n’omwoleso ogwakaggulwawo Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Ekikulu wano zaali sikaati enfunda ezitangaala, Vaccarello okutwaliza awamu ze yakola ekintu kye ekikulu, era nga waliwo n’obusawo obutangaavu era, ddala, bbulawuzi za YSL ezitangaala eza kalasi nga ziriko obutaasa. Naye obwerufu buno bwonna, mpozzi olw’obungi bwa langi za beige n’omusenyu Vaccarello gw’ayagala ennyo mu kiseera kino, ezaafuuka langi enkulu ez’omusono, zaali zifaanana katono nga latex BDSM, era nga zifaanana katono ku sci-fi ya Kubrick. Kino, kya lwatu, kye kika ky’okwegatta Yves Saint Laurent ky’atabangako, n’okwagala kwe kwonna okw’okusikiriza okutono, naye nga kwa bourgeois ennyo okwalagibwa naddala mu bifaananyi bya Helmut Newton ebimanyiddwa ennyo eby’abakyala ba YSL ab’emyaka gya 1970. Naye eno y’ennongoosereza Vaccarello mw’ayita okufuula SL okuba ey’omugaso leero.

Ku kifo kino kye kimu eky’obulungi obw’emyaka gya 1970 osobola okwongerako obukooti bw’entangawuuzi obutegekeddwa obukoleddwa mu ddiba erimasamasa, nga bwambalibwa mu ngeri ennyangu ng’olina amagulu obwereere. Era n’ebitambaala ebisibiddwa ku mitwe gya ba model, n’ebizigo ebinene ennyo wansi waabyo — nga Loulou de La Falaise mu myaka gya 1970, bwe byakwatibwa ku bifaananyi ne Yves mu kifo ekimu ekisanyukirwamu, nga bombi, emmunyeenye bbiri eza bohemian Paris, bali ku yaabwe prime.

Mu butuufu, ekifaananyi kino eky’obulungi bw’Abafaransa obwa kalasi n’obwa French chic obwa Les Trente glorieuses kye Vaccarello ky’ayita kati. Era omuyimbi omukulu ow’obulungi obw’edda obw’e Paris — kabeere mikwano gye Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, otuuma erinnya — yali Yves Saint Laurent yennyini, eyajaguza divas ng’ezo, femmes fatale, n’ebirala ebiraga obukyala obw’edda obw’e Paris . Leero, Anthony Vaccarello afudde bulungi ekifaananyi kino ekikye, n’akizza mu bulamu mu nkyusa eno erongooseddwa era ey’omulembe ennyo, n’azuukiza Yves Saint Laurent mu bifaananyi bye ebisinga okubeera eby’ekitiibwa era ebisinga okutwalibwa mu buwangwa obumanyiddwa. Well, kino, nga Abafaransa bwe bandyogedde, une très belle collection, très féminine, ky’ayinza okuyozaayoza mu bwesimbu — yaddukanya bulungi enkyukakyuka ya YSL okuva mu biseera eby’emabega okudda mu kiseera kino.

Ekiwandiiko: Elena Stafyeva