Obulungi Obumasamasa: buli kimu ky’olina okumanya ku bitonde ebipya ebya High Jewellery okuva e Paris

High Jewellery bulijjo egenda wamu ne Haute Couture shows mu Paris: mu buwangwa, mu January ne July nga grand Houses of... aba Place Vendôme balaga ebitonde byabwe ebisembyeyo. Ebinyonyi bya Chaumet eby’omuwendo, obukodyo bwa Dior obw’okukola engoye ez’ekika kya haute couture, ebyewuunyo by’obutonde ebya Louis Vuitton ne safaali ya De Beers ey’omu Afirika - wano waliwo byonna by’olina okumanya ku nkuŋŋaanya empya eza High Jewellery.

BOUCHERON, AMAANYI G’EBINTU

Mu nnono, mu January Boucheron ayanjula ekitabo ky’amajolobero ekya High Jewellery “Histoire de Style”, nga kyesigamiziddwa ku mulamwa okuva mu tterekero ly’ennyumba ery’ebbeeyi. Ku mulundi guno, dayirekita w’obuyiiya Claire Choisne yafunye okubudaabudibwa okuva mu kifaananyi ekiddugavu n’ekyeru ng’Omulangira Philip alamusa abantu ng’ali ku lubalaza lw’olubiri lwa Buckingham mu yunifoomu ye entongole ey’omukono, ng’ayooyooteddwa n’emidaali, obutambi obw’amayinja ag’omuwendo, epaulettes, aiguillettes, enkokola eziriko emisono gya zaabu, obutaasa n’ebintu ebirala eby’omuwendo ebiyitibwa frills. Mu kwanjula “The Power of Couture” collection, ekoleddwa mu zaabu omweru, crystal ne dayimanda yekka, mu dduuka ly’ennyumba eno erimanyiddwa ennyo ku Place Vendôme, Choisne yategeezezza nti ddala Boucheron yatonda emidaali eri abazira abawerako ab’ekibiina kya Legion of Honour, era ne... okuwummula kye kibala ky’okulowooza kwe okutaggwaawo. Lowooza ku buttons eziyinza okufuuka eby’okwewunda enviiri, tiara mu ngeri y’amatabi abiri amagonvu aga ferns okuva mu bifaananyi eby’obwakabaka, epaulettes ezifuuka cuff bracelet, n’obutaasa obw’emikolo obuyinza okuba buli kimu: brooch, necklace, ne hairpin.

Boucheron

LOUIS VUITTON, OBUDDE OBUZIBU

Essuula eyokubiri era esembayo mu “Ekiseera Ekizito ” okukung’aanya, okuweereddwayo eri eby’ettaka n’ebyewuunyo eby’obutonde ebyaleeta obulamu ku Nsi, kikoleddwa mu bitundu amakumi ataano. Francesca Amfitheatrof, dayirekita w’obuyiiya mu kitongole kya Louis Vuitton eky’amajolobero n’essaawa, annyonnyola nti omulimu guno ogugenda mu maaso buli kiseera gusobozesa situdiyo ye okubbira mu mulamwa, okugaziya olugero olugagga olw’omusika gw’eby’ettaka n’okukwatagana kw’obulamu. Ku mulundi guno, Amfitheatrof yakwata olugendo emabega enkumi n’enkumi z’emyaka n’ayanjula enkyusa y’amajolobero eya sinuous DNA helix - akakomo akanene ennyo aka ‘cuff bracelet’ n’omukuufu ogukwatagana mu zaabu omweru ne dayimanda, gwe yayita “Myriad”. Ekirala kye yatonda “Olususu” kwe kunyeenya omutwe eri minzaani y’omusota (bagamba nti emisota egyasooka gyalabika ku Nsi emyaka egisukka mu bukadde 128 egiyise): ultra modern and graphic, omukuufu guno ogwa zaabu ogwa kyenvu nagwo gujjukiza omusono gwa Maison ogwa Damier ogw’omukono era gulimu kumpi safiro za Umbra 300 okuva e Tanzania, mu langi ez’enjawulo eza kitaka okuva ku cognac okutuuka ku chocolate omugagga. Mu bikolwa ebirala eby’ekikugu, omukuufu ogwa “Laurasia” ogw’enkokola empanvu ogwali gwetaagisa essaawa 2,465 okugukola. Erinnya lino lyatuumibwa erinnya ly'emu ku ssemazinga ezisinga obukadde, ekoleddwa okuva mu kutabula kwa zaabu wa platinum, kiragala ne rose, era nga eyooyooteddwa ne dayimanda wa kyenvu atali mutono wakati wa 5.02-carat-emerald-cut.

Louis Vuitton

DIOR, DIOR DÉLICAT

Sizoni eno, Victoire de Castellane, omuyiiya wa Dior Fine Jewellery dayirekita, akomawo ku motif gy’ayagala ennyo, obukodyo bwa Haute Couture n’okutunga. Mu kkolero empya, gye yayanjudde mu nnyumba ey'obwannannyini ku Left Bank of Paris n'ayita "Délicat", ekitegeeza "ekiweweevu" era "ekitali kinywevu" mu Lufalansa, Victoire azannya ne safiro, emeraludi, amalusu ne dayimanda, n'akola “eby'okutunga eby'omuwendo ". Omusono guno gulimu ebitundu 79, ng'ebisinga byatundibwa mangu eri bakasitoma b'olukiiko ab'oku ntikko. Ebimu ku bisinga okunyumira mulimu eby'oku matu ebya Victoire ebya signature asymmetrical, empeta z'engalo bbiri, ppini z'ettaayi, tiara (de Castellane agamba nti tannaguzibwa." yakola n’ebintu eby’oku mutwe eby’amajolobero mu myaka egisukka mu kkumi) n’omukuufu ogwaliko emiguwa musanvu egya dayimanda nga guliko ejjinja erya wakati eryali lisaliddwa mu mapeera erya karati mukaaga.

Dior

FENDI

Nnono mpya, Fendi alaga ebipya mu bitonde bya Haute Joaillerie mu kiseera kyennyini eky'okulaga Haute Couture mu kibuga Paris. Ku mulundi guno, Delphine Delettrez-Fendi, dayirekita w’eby’ekikugu mu by’amajolobero, essira yalitadde ku mpeta z’amatu eziwerako mu zaabu omweru nga ziriko dayimanda asaliddwa amapeera, empeta ez’engalo bbiri, wamu n’ensawo entonotono ez’omuwendo “Fendi Gems Baguette”, awali akaguwa ka FF aka signature eyooyooteddwa n’ekintu ekiyitibwa diamond pavé. Naye ekituufu ekyakyusa omutwe gw’omusono guno awatali kubuusabuusa, zaali ngatto za musana ez’amajolobero amangi “Singular Vision” mu zaabu omweru nga ziriko pavé ya dayimanda eyakaayakana. Nga zifumbiddwa nga ziyambibwako omukugu mu by’amaaso owa LVMH, Thélios, mmotoka zino ez’omu maaso, ng’eringa ezitali wala nnyo, zigenda kubeera mu saluuni za Fendi ez’obwannannyini, bakasitoma gye bagenda okuweebwa obumanyirivu bw’okukwatagana n’amaaso agakoleddwa ku mutindo, nga gakozesa amaanyi nga kyakolebwa tekinologiya wa Augmented Reality. Olw’okukozesa tekinologiya wa 3D face-scan, eyakolebwa Thélios, omuntu asobola okupima ffeesi mu ngeri entuufu okukola fuleemu ez’enjawulo ezikoleddwa ku kipimo. Ebiseera eby’omu maaso ddala birabika nga bitangaavu.

Fendi

DE BEERS, AMAANYI G’OBUTUNDU

Mu kiseera kino eky’obutiti, ennyumba y’Abangereza eya De Beers etongozza omusono omupya ogwa High Jewellery oguweereddwayo eri “Forces of Nature”, kwe kugamba ebisolo ebiyitibwa totem ebisolo bya Afrika, ebirombe bya dayimanda ebikulu kkampuni eno gye bisinziira. Essuula esooka mu kukungaanya zino ezimbiddwa okwetoloola empeta munaana ezikyusibwa nga ziriko dayimanda ow’enjawulo wakati. Okugeza, empeta ya “Lion Jacket” eyakaayakana ne dayimanda ow’enjuyi essatu ow’obuzito bwa karati 5.09 ng’osobola okwambalibwa n’enviiri ezibumbe oba nga tezikoleddwa mu bimuli bya zaabu ebya kyenvu ne dayimanda pavé, ezitambula ng’olukoba wakati w’engalo. Ekirala ekisinga okulabika obulungi, empeta ya “Giraffe Crown” ekwata nnyo ne dayimanda waayo ow’omuzira eyeetooloovu ow’ekika kya carat 5.78, ng’ekwatiddwa bbandi bbiri eziriko enkula ya V eziriko dayimanda za chocolate, nga zikoppa engeri y’amabala g’enkima. Kiri gy’oli okuzituuma wamu, okuzisaasaanya mu ngalo ez’enjawulo oba okwambala okwawukana.

De Bbiya

DAMIANI, EBIKOLWA EBY’OMUWENDO

Omwaka guno, Damiani ejaguza emyaka 100 bukya etandikibwawo. Okutandikawo ebikujjuko bino, omusuubuzi w’amajolobero Omuyitale yalongoosezza eby’amajolobero bya High Jewellery ebisinga okutunda. Okugeza, omusono gwa “Emozioni” guwedde nga guliko showstopper essiddwa mu zaabu omweru era nga guyooyooteddwa n’amayinja agayitibwa aquamarines ne dayimanda agasaliddwa mu emeraludi agawunyiriza. Eby’oku matu eby’amatondo n’omukuufu, nga mulimu enzirugavu ssatu ez’omuwendo eziteekeddwako dayimanda pavé, byongeddwa ku “Belle Époque”. N’ekisembayo, omusono gwa “Margherita” ogwatuumiddwa erinnya lya Nnabagereka wa Yitale asinga okwagalibwa, guzzeemu okulongoosebwa n’empeta n’omukuufu oguliko daisies ezisikiriza nga ziteekeddwako dayimanda za kyenvu ez’omulembe ezisaliddwa omumbejja.High Jewellery bulijjo egenda wamu ne Haute Couture shows in Paris: mu buwangwa, mu January ne July, Ennyumba ennene ez’ekifo Vendôme mwe ziraga ebitonde byabwe ebisembyeyo. Ebinyonyi bya Chaumet eby’omuwendo, obukodyo bwa Dior obwa haute couture, ebyewuunyo by’obutonde ebya Louis Vuitton ne safaali ya De Beers ey’omu Afirika - wano waliwo byonna by’olina okumanya ku misono emipya egya High Jewellery.

Damiani

CHAUMET, Ekibiina ky’Amawanga Amagatte AIR DE CHAUMET

Okukung’aanya kuno okutono okw’amajolobero aga waggulu, nga kakoleddwa mu bitundu mwenda ebiweweevu, ye ode eri ebinyonyi ebirabika obulungi, omulamwa ogutaggwaawo ogw’okubudaabudibwa eri abakugu mu by’amajolobero abakulu. Empress Josephine yennyini, kasitoma wa Chaumet asinga okwewaayo era ow’ettutumu, yali alowooza nti ebinyonyi ebya buli ngeri birina okugenda ennyo mu nsuku ze. Entandikwa? Hairpins, bandeaux n’ebirala eby’omuwendo eby’enviiri eby’omuwendo eby’okwewuunya okuva mu tterekero ly’ennyumba eno, ebyatondebwawo Joseph Chaumet ku ntandikwa y’ekyasa eky’amakumi abiri n’abagoberezi be mu myaka gya 60 ne 70. Mu “Plumes d’or” set, amaaso gonna gali ku maliba ga zaabu agasiigiddwa nga gateekeddwako dayimanda - amaliba bwe gaawulwamu, tiara efuuka hairpins ne brooches. Mu seti ya “Ballet”, eby’okwewunda by’enviiri n’ebikomo by’empeta bikwata mu ngeri y’okumira ebitontome, akabonero akalaga essanyu mu nsi yonna; ate nga “Parade” set ezannyira ku ndowooza y’ebinyonyi eby’amagezi eby’ejjana mu zaabu omweru ne pinki, nga biyooyooteddwa ne dayimanda. Ekisembayo naye nga tekikoma awo, “Envol” eteekeddwa mu zaabu omweru ne dayimanda ekoleddwa mu bikondo by’amatu ne ppini z’enviiri, era nga zino zisobola okwambalibwa nga bbulawuzi abasajja n’abakazi.

Chaumet

Ekiwandiiko: LIDIA AGEEVA